Clutch Plates

Energy One

Pitman

Member
I was on Wild Steed Workx website and the clutch plates Vary from 9 to 12 for 05 and up what is the difference between them and how do i know what fits my application . I'm asking as I've already posted about the mechanic i went to and I feel very ripped off but, I was on the Highway today and got to stay into the mid range for a good period of time . The clutch slips if I try to give it more throttle above 3500RPM in 5th and 6th gear traveling around 70 to 75 mph . The guy I took it too said the wrong clutch was in there that it was a 12 plate and needed to be an 9 and changed it out is this correct ?

2005 Pitbull
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Supporting Member
I was on Wild Steed Workx website and the clutch plates Vary from 9 to 12 for 05 and up what is the difference between them and how do i know what fits my application . I'm asking as I've already posted about the mechanic i went to and I feel very ripped off but, I was on the Highway today and got to stay into the mid range for a good period of time . The clutch slips if I try to give it more throttle above 3500RPM in 5th and 6th gear traveling around 70 to 75 mph . The guy I took it too said the wrong clutch was in there that it was a 12 plate and needed to be an 9 and changed it out is this correct ?

2005 Pitbull
12 plate clutch is what 05 and up come with factory but the steels are thin and wrap and cause the problem you are having...but with that said you may just need to adjust the clutch...if you need to replace them energy one makes a 9 plate replacement which has thicker steel plates...9 plate is what you need to put it since it is way better... bigdogpartskingpin.com sells them or you can get them from energy one... clutch and steel plate stack should measure 1.98 thick
 

Pitman

Member
Thank you for the explanation that helps me understand , He did put the correct 9 plat configuration in . so is the adjustment needing to be adjusted at the primary anti clockwise ? . I believe it to be in 1/4 turn increments is that correct ?
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Thank you for the explanation that helps me understand , He did put the correct 9 plat configuration in . so is the adjustment needing to be adjusted at the primary anti clockwise ? . I believe it to be in 1/4 turn increments is that correct ?
Only 1/4 turn at the most, counterclockwise. But if it's slipping at RPM, you most likely have a different problem. A clutch adjustment problem you would notice at idle as it would be creeping. If I was a betting man I would put money that your pressure plate is the original aluminum (silver) that wears, there is now a hardened one available (this one is brownish looking). You have to pull the clutch pack off and inspect the pressure plate, usually it's right around 10k miles on the original pressure plate that you can see and feel the wear on the plate.

 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Troubleshoot points:
1. Stack - the thinner the pack, the more the clutch springs expand: can no loner hold the bite. Friction plate wear or burned out.
2. Hard finding N, and/or creep - this would be the correct 1/4 turn out, cable slack this side of a low E string on a guitar; still says full push rod distance moves the pressure plate as far as it goes says it's a warped clutch steel plate(s).
3. Assembled steels and plates flat or cut side; faces the pressure plate.

So if this was someone fucking up tossing whatever numbered plates into the basket, it points to stack. No matter the adjustment at the lever to screw turn, hard to find N says plate and/or warped pressure plate [first generation]. On disassembly, note how the steels went in. Are they randomly installed in either direction? Yes? Get your money back!

Signed,
Spin My Grin
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the explanation that helps me understand , He did put the correct 9 plat configuration in . so is the adjustment needing to be adjusted at the primary anti clockwise ? . I believe it to be in 1/4 turn increments is that correct ?
Give this adj procedure a try before you start replacing parts. Keep in mind the further you back out on the adjustment the less throw to the clutch. Too far (more than 1/4 turn) and you will probably have trouble putting the bike in neutral because the clutch is not releasing enough. If you don't back out enough you may have slippage. It's got a lot to do with feel. The part of the adj that says to adj until the rod just touches is the tricky part. Do the best you can to find the happy median. In your case I would back out the adj just a bit more than it is now maybe (1/32) recheck your handle adj and give it a try. Good luck!
Of course if you have worn parts adjusting will only help but not fix your problem.
 
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Pitman

Member
guys, In your opinion do you think I should do this myself as the mechanic is the one that put the new clutch on it and I don't want him to say someone has messed with it if I cant get it done right. or do you think I should say F him and do it right myself ? lol it seems I've had nothing but more problems . I brought it too him because I thought it was shifting too hard now its slipping after he changed the clutch from 12 to 9 plates. I left and could barely shift in into neutral and the clutch grip was floppy. I managed to adjust that out and get it working correctly. I've never done a clutch and a little worried about messing it up
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
If the mechanic left your your clutch handle sloppy the adjustment was not done properly. You have already made it better probably only by correcting the slop. Try the complete adjustment and see how you make out. You may be surprised!!
 

Pitman

Member
ok so I have a 2005 Pitbull and I was looking on the Bigdog.net site and it says 12 pack setup is for a 2005 Pitbull and the 9 pack is for a 2008 Pitbull and up ??? The mechanic guy said the 12 pack was wrong and put a 9 pack in there am I missing something here ? are they interchangeable if so why are they not listed by BigDog as the applicable fitment? how do I know if it had a soft pull kit originally ? sorry about all these questions lol
9disc.jpg12disc.jpg
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Read #2 from Knothead above. Actually, either a 9 or 2 will work—the steel discs in the 12 pack are thinner, hence easier to warp, so most will go with the 9 disc pack. The big deal is the stack height, and both the 9 annd 12 packs identical (1.98“ if I recall). As mentioned above, the steel plates have to be installed with the sharp side towards the transmission. As mentioned above check both the pressure plate and the disc spring. The pressure plate cam be visually inspected (best to replace the OEM aluminum one) and I simply put the disc spring on a flat surface and measured the distance from the flat surface to the 3 fingers—fortunately I had a couple extras for comparison.
If your clutch lever is a bitch to keep pulled when waiting at a stoplight, it isn’t an EZ pull clutch. You need to replace the ball ramp with the EZ pull kit if that’s the case.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
My bike is built for drag racing. Japanese, so I've noticed thru the years, the cut side always faces the pressure plate. I've notice the Honda CBX's clutch design is the pressure plate is installed first, and I've seen the cut steels facing into the engine. One down for me.

Next round, one guy I call 'The Hand,' because his time slips show it, he thru his steels in facing the engine and this design is pressure plate is last to be installed, but seems both ways work. So take it for WOT it's worth.

Now I've seen Harley's old roller ball bearing steel plates, where those are stamped 'out.' A closer look and it shows the sharper side of those steel plates point the way. So for me to see Harley and Honda assemble it this way, it's my way too.

Sloppy the shit is this? Balls up and collect your comeback or, you can look at it another way. Say it's tuition money lost, you could of had better luck doing it yourself.

Trick Me This:
1. The cable outer is expandable right? WD-40 the rubber boot, slide it up, expose the cable adjust, nut is loose, run it down so no threads are showing. This places the cable outer at its shortest length.

2. The 1/4 out turn from a lightly seated position is to run the lock nut out some, screwdriver in one hand at the adj screw, other hand on the lever. As you screw in, this will move the lever toward the perch. Towards the grip is the wrong direction. As mentioned, this is were your feel is to touch the pussy, not buckle her over like getting kicked there. This is not loading up the rod and buckling it kind of twist. It's all about feel beginning right here.

Now that you know where home is, hand off the lever, back out the screw and back off of it till it feels loose, then run back to its so as lightly as possible; I don't care how many time you need to feel the no tight at it. You are now kissing that pussy lip is not even, get it? Now out 1/4 turn and lock it.

3. Back to the cable outer, begin to expand it till the lever hits the perch. If you pull and feel any lightly pull at the perch and lever's gap, close it up till you can draw a business card gap at it. That's hair trigger, far as you can throw it. Can't find N after that, someone is at fault here.

Are your riding habits more revs than riding kind of throttle blipper from hell? Rev-rev and bogs when riding it again letting the clutch back out, didn't know slowing down revving and revving, you forgot to shift down? Just asking LOL...
 

BigDog Tor

New Member
Hi,

I had the same problem on my Pitbull 2005. (12 plate clutch assembly with original pressure plate)
The problem was defect / warn out pressure plate (original in aluminum).
The pressure plate was worn out in the worn path and had an edge on the inside and outside.
As a quick fix, I sanded away the inner and outer edges and flat sanded the pressure plate with 800 grit.
For now this temporarily solved my problem.

I hade put in order new 9 plate clutch pack, new hardened pressure clutch plate from Bigdogpartskingpin.
I also had ordered from Baker and new Diaphragm clutch spring PN#3084-DSSC.
 

rpols7

Member
ok so I have a 2005 Pitbull and I was looking on the Bigdog.net site and it says 12 pack setup is for a 2005 Pitbull and the 9 pack is for a 2008 Pitbull and up ??? The mechanic guy said the 12 pack was wrong and put a 9 pack in there am I missing something here ? are they interchangeable if so why are they not listed by BigDog as the applicable fitment? how do I know if it had a soft pull kit originally ? sorry about all these questions lol
View attachment 110344View attachment 110342
Yes your 05 ( through 07 ) had a 12 plate. Most complained about clutch lever being a hard pull and as the other said the steel plates warp. So the "Upgrade " is to put the 9 plate ( 08 -11 ) in but you are supposed to change the ball and ramp to the 9 plate style. ( EZ pull). Once installed they both have the same stack height.( 9 plate VS 12 plate )
 

08mastiff

Active Member
Only 1/4 turn at the most, counterclockwise. But if it's slipping at RPM, you most likely have a different problem. A clutch adjustment problem you would notice at idle as it would be creeping. If I was a betting man I would put money that your pressure plate is the original aluminum (silver) that wears, there is now a hardened one available (this one is brownish looking). You have to pull the clutch pack off and inspect the pressure plate, usually it's right around 10k miles on the original pressure plate that you can see and feel the wear on the plate.

I just got the hardened pressure plate described in your post above. The throw out bearing seems to have more play than on my original pressure plate. It appears as though groove for the retaining ring sits just a but higher than on the original plate. Anyone else experience this. I'm guessing it doesn't matter.
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
I just got the hardened pressure plate described in your post above. The throw out bearing seems to have more play than on my original pressure plate. It appears as though groove for the retaining ring sits just a but higher than on the original plate. Anyone else experience this. I'm guessing it doesn't matter.
No, it fine. I noticed that too.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Mike mentioned 'feel' and that made me think: ever so lightly holding the clutch lever and feel the lever move when you turn in the screw at the clutch.

Turn the screw CCW and feel the lever move to the grip. That tells you 1) the wrong direction, and 2) you know that CW will stop and that is all she wrote so at that point 3) write back a 1/4 turn CCW, and put a stamp on it, i.e., lock the nut down.

Then spread the outer clutch cable sides out to close the gap at the lever to perch. Spread the cables to the point of the lever to perch gap touch each other. Pull the lever and if there is a sloppy loose gap at the lever to perch, close it so when you lightly pull the lever it is hard to move. Feel wise the harder pull would feel a little slop before it becomes taut. It's a more hair trigger adjustment finding N easier, less grind into gear, and this side of still having a gap at the rod.
 
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