Oil seal

Energy One

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Supporting Member
Screw 2 sheet metal screws or wood screw across from each other and not deep because of the bearing....then take a set of pliers on each side and pull it out...maybe a pain and you may have to do it again but it will eventually come out
 

tatajoe

Member
Ok , back to the stator, ordered one from bigdogpartsking and got one that didn't go in, the stator went in no problem but the rotor didn't. What part # and from who is anyone that needs one get it from. 06 Mastiff. They received the part back no problem and issued a refund, good guys over there.thanks in advance brothers
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Supporting Member
It is probably rubbing the aluminum inner primary like most do rub... you have to die grind the primary in that area slightly to make it clear...it doesnt take much to do it...but make sure you cover the stator and seal area covered real real good so not to get shaving in it...this is a common problem
 

tatajoe

Member
Thanks for your reply, also the crank shaft oil seal is leaking, I understand about drilling the holes to remove it, but can it be done without removing the inner primary cover?? I see the back side of that oil seal facing me
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I use a long wallboard screw. Grind the tip to a needle, but it's a robust tip like a shallow shaft pencil tip. Hammer thru the seal, then screw it in a few turns and note the bite. Vice grip on the screw shaft and it pops out. I have an old Joe Bolger tool. You saw the instructors welded vice grip with the slide shaft welded to it? More like double L two vice grips and hammer the vertical grip.

You'll notice or I've noticed two types of center collars that seal off that shaft. The one I think can be pulled and has a straight taper off the collar. The other style [HD wise] and that year design change is a tapered collar. That style can only be removed when seal is removed. So if you are forcing it or it's this style collar, can't ding that collar when using the screw. Centering the first hit is key.

With the old seal, I could walk it up the taper well before it would stop. The new one would move up half the taper and stop. Where the old seal would practically spin on the collar, and the new one had some sealing effect to its spin. I pack seal lips with grease, be it engine, forks, or wheels.

Working on the recent wreck made me change all the seals; seeing it being an old bike, and showed its ugly face sitting exposed with the primary off and showed the same leak at the crank seal. Didn't catch the trans seal walked when it went on the side stand. Had to remove everything back off and should have videoed the trans clutch collar coming off and back on. That was some fancy [first time for me] Meguyveering with just that one horseshoe tool that did not fit behind the collar. It was how I moved the collar out so I could get the U-hook behind the collar... which I did not need once I tacked how to move the flucking thing.
 

bdm7250

Guru
Supporting Member
Thanks for your reply, also the crank shaft oil seal is leaking, I understand about drilling the holes to remove it, but can it be done without removing the inner primary cover?? I see the back side of that oil seal facing me
 

tatajoe

Member
What in my world is wrong!!! I've ordered the stator kit twice now and I keep getting the same part, different vendors, all state Big Dog parts but the rotor won't go in. It's too big. Don't want to be a problem child but I'm at my wits end here
 

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Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
It is probably rubbing the aluminum inner primary like most do rub... you have to die grind the primary in that area slightly to make it clear...it doesnt take much to do it...but make sure you cover the stator and seal area covered real real good so not to get shaving in it...this is a common problem
 
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