Wolf won’t start
- Thread starter bmich
- Start date
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Let's start with what battery are you running and how old is it. Just because it shows full charge doesn't mean it is good.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
The click you are hearing may be the compression releases. When the start button is depressed it signals the EHC to activate the CRs and starter solenoid at the same time. Pull the green wire off your starter and read it when you depress the start button. You should get 12+ vdc to the starter solenoid. If you get the voltage troubleshoot the starter solenoid. If you don't get the voltage you need to troubleshoot the EHC.
It is less than 3 months old. Banshee battery.
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
That's a new one, haven't heard of that. There are dozens of threads about batteries on here. I bet if you have it load tested you'll find it shorted out. There are very few batteries out there that will hold up to the vibration these bikes put out. Deca and the Duracell are good, the Harley battery is good. Most of these no name ones get the inside shook apart. They'll still show 12 volts but they won't have no amperage.
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Thank you!!! So I could just order and replace the relay?
No, lets start with a real static battery voltage number. 12+ means it's well past a charge, meaning the (+) plus is what number? 12.8v static or even 13.0v is a well charged battery. 12.6v says it needs a charge. 12.4v says it's heading south if you can't up that number after a charge.
Click means a voltage than cannot hold the relays arm to remain connected to transfer the load to connect the (+) cable to the (+) cable out of the relay to the starter motor.
So this says a load is the draw of the starter motor. The drop in volts would show with a voltmeter across the battery posts, WATT does the number read? It sure is not about to read 11.1v at the hold down of the starter button, but more like 10 or 9 volts.
I could not throw enough hours on a [new] battery with the correct amp needed out of the charger, meaning, If the battery reads 12N14a, it says it's a 12v battery, N meaning where the plus/minus post positions are, and 14a meaning the amps needing at least a 1.4a rated charger.
My charger was bought new, showed 1.5a rated so that meant is exceeded the rate of 1.4a, and the other read of the 14 means to charge the battery at least 14 hours before installing for service. But mine kept a static 12.4v. So I bought a smart charger. I let Jay do the R&D on his shit.
Bought the ctek charger and the battery came up to 12.8v. Bought a BS (battery acid supplied) battery, threw it on the ctek for it's initial charge out of the box. This black bike has been sitting for almost a week, it reads out at 12.99v. This is the charger you need. Bought new wet or the other type battery, this is the first thing you should do with a new battery is charge it for days on end first with the ctek.
No one listens to turtle on this either. My batteries last about 9yrs on average if I charge a battery myself. This is why I buy dry and prep it myself.
Click means a voltage than cannot hold the relays arm to remain connected to transfer the load to connect the (+) cable to the (+) cable out of the relay to the starter motor.
So this says a load is the draw of the starter motor. The drop in volts would show with a voltmeter across the battery posts, WATT does the number read? It sure is not about to read 11.1v at the hold down of the starter button, but more like 10 or 9 volts.
I could not throw enough hours on a [new] battery with the correct amp needed out of the charger, meaning, If the battery reads 12N14a, it says it's a 12v battery, N meaning where the plus/minus post positions are, and 14a meaning the amps needing at least a 1.4a rated charger.
My charger was bought new, showed 1.5a rated so that meant is exceeded the rate of 1.4a, and the other read of the 14 means to charge the battery at least 14 hours before installing for service. But mine kept a static 12.4v. So I bought a smart charger. I let Jay do the R&D on his shit.
Bought the ctek charger and the battery came up to 12.8v. Bought a BS (battery acid supplied) battery, threw it on the ctek for it's initial charge out of the box. This black bike has been sitting for almost a week, it reads out at 12.99v. This is the charger you need. Bought new wet or the other type battery, this is the first thing you should do with a new battery is charge it for days on end first with the ctek.
No one listens to turtle on this either. My batteries last about 9yrs on average if I charge a battery myself. This is why I buy dry and prep it myself.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
I don't have a wiring diagram for a 2009 Wolf but I'm pretty sure it does not use a start relay. The voltage to operate the starter solenoid comes from the EHC after it gets the signal from the start button. Contact https://www.bigdogpartskingpin.com/ they will know for sure.