Stalling 5 minutes after start

TreeGuru

Member
Hey Sven. I see WATT you did there (substituting Watt for What) :)

It sits at 13.0 with no key on, then goes to 12.8 with the key on, then idles at 13.6-13.8 at fast idle. I put a new Deke battery in it a couple of weeks ago.
Remove your gas cap. On the bottom of the cap is there a white color piece of plastic, if so remove it counter clockwise and re-install gas cap and take a ride. Some gas cap came with this idea a kind of double check valve, I think there idea was to keep gas off of the tank.
 

Rintintin

Member
I remembered I bought some new plug wires from HDM a few months ago and never put them on. While I have the coil off, I will change them out too. I looked and they are Taylor 8mm. The one's on the bike are Accel 8.8mm Can/should I use the Taylor 8mms ?
 

Rintintin

Member
Remove your gas cap. On the bottom of the cap is there a white color piece of plastic, if so remove it counter clockwise and re-install gas cap and take a ride. Some gas cap came with this idea a kind of double check valve, I think there idea was to keep gas off of the tank.
Thanks Tree Guru, I checked the gas cap, no while plastic thingy. Good idea though
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
I remembered I bought some new plug wires from HDM a few months ago and never put them on. While I have the coil off, I will change them out too. I looked and they are Taylor 8mm. The one's on the bike are Accel 8.8mm Can/should I use the Taylor 8mms ?
Taylor's are on both of my Dogs. Have you checked the fuel valve on the tank? May have enough crap on the screen to hose you up?
 

Rintintin

Member
Taylor's are on both of my Dogs. Have you checked the fuel valve on the tank? May have enough crap on the screen to hose you up?
That's good news on the Taylor 8mms. I also bought a set of Moroso 8mms from HDM that I have not used either.

Good question about the fuel valve. Is that the petcock? Do I have to remove it to check it? If so, should I just replace it while I'm in there?

Thanks!
 

chubs

Guru
That's good news on the Taylor 8mms. I also bought a set of Moroso 8mms from HDM that I have not used either.

Good question about the fuel valve. Is that the petcock? Do I have to remove it to check it? If so, should I just replace it while I'm in there?

Thanks!
A simple quick check, Turn petcock to "off" position, remove hose from it and temporary hook a short piece of hose in it's place (enough length to get it away from bike) stick hose in a container and turn petcock to reserve and main positions. Good flow- probably a clean screen. Poor flow- maybe crud clogging the screen. Also if flow starts strong and then slows considerably after a bit, loosen your gas cap and see if the flow improves. If so, probably not venting good.
Just a simple and cheap test.
 

Rintintin

Member
A simple quick check, Turn petcock to "off" position, remove hose from it and temporary hook a short piece of hose in it's place (enough length to get it away from bike) stick hose in a container and turn petcock to reserve and main positions. Good flow- probably a clean screen. Poor flow- maybe crud clogging the screen. Also if flow starts strong and then slows considerably after a bit, loosen your gas cap and see if the flow improves. If so, probably not venting good.
Just a simple and cheap test.
I like it! I'll be on it after work!
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Exactly. This is a computer bike. It, like electricity has this balance to it. So a running bike's charging system should run in the 14's as a charging rate. The group should comeback and say that their bike does not run that low of a running idle. I'm just guessing it's too low.

So when I say balance, the black box needs a full 5v out of a running bike. So if it's running in the 13's, it sets the 5v lower. This may stop the bike with the lower voltage of balance [meeting 5v.]

I too made a battery static and key on check. 13.3v on. The one bike, key on, headlights come on, dropped to 12.1v. Other bike is a computer bike that draws a stepper motor, cycles the tach/speedo, hot's the ECU... 12.7v static, key on 11.3v.

This still says PUSH is there. Push is another name for volts. That says your battery is new, so PUSH is there.

As far as stopped a block away. The trick is to top off the gas tank to the brim. That closes the air gap. The gas would stop way before the block. Pop the gas cap to natural atmosphere and it should start right up again. Then you'll know immediately if it's a vacuum issue or, no start is electrical.

Compression: It starts so it's not it.
Fuel: It starts so this is not it. Vac will call the ball as a variable.
Spark: The charging demand is a variable. A code read when stops, key kept on till read. If group answer is 13v is normal, then return to fuel.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Crank sensor? 5 minutes is not a gas cap. 13v running after 5 minutes is not a charging problem. The OP's title changes my diagnosis.
 

Rintintin

Member
We have a winner! It was either the coil or the spark plug wires. I replaced both while I had the assembly apart. I seemed to fire a little quicker on start (not that it was problematic before). I rode it around for 15 minutes without any stalling or acting up. I will probably keep the ignition as a spare even though it is a bit pricey.

I'm going to ride some more tomorrow, but am feeling pretty good about it.

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas and support for getting my pup back on the road.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
We have a winner! It was either the coil or the spark plug wires. I replaced both while I had the assembly apart. I seemed to fire a little quicker on start (not that it was problematic before). I rode it around for 15 minutes without any stalling or acting up. I will probably keep the ignition as a spare even though it is a bit pricey.

I'm going to ride some more tomorrow, but am feeling pretty good about it.

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas and support for getting my pup back on the road.
Likely the coil. It gets hot and exxpands and loses a connection. Seen it happen more than once.
 
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