Thunder Heart EHC

DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
GDOG_PITBULL said:
So I have taken all motor and starter, comp. rls, and ignition out of the controller. I have a very cool solution for that.
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You never did tell us what your solution for this was? I've thought about making an emergency harness that would give me a headlight, tail light, and running motor if the controller took a shit. I'm interested in your take on it...

Dennis
 
GDOG_PITBULL

GDOG_PITBULL

Well-Known Member
The turn signal are working now that I used the ground leads to the 2 control boards as +12 vdc to supply the command inputs. I have a couple more functions to get working and will post pics once the birds nest of wires are gone. The starter is now on a 30 amp push button switch that connects to the starter lead along with the comp release and a switched 12 vdc to the ignition stuff. The latch module has no use at all here.
G
 
GDOG_PITBULL

GDOG_PITBULL

Well-Known Member
So to share the data...I am attempting to use the ground leads of the switches as the +12Vdc supply and the return leads as the command inputs for the TH. Cannot seam to get the front brake switch to provide continuity for the brake input and the horn, hi / low beam have not been tackled either. Not sure this will work as the grounds all seem to be connected at the board so I may be limited to just the turn signals and then there is always a diode that could be in the mix. This will be creative to say the least.....
G
 
mittens

mittens

Active Member
Th3InfamousI said:
04 was the first year of the EHC. 03 and Older used Thunderheart and Harley style handcontrols.

In your 04 you do have a Thunderheart Ignition Module but NOT a Thunderheart Control Board (If It's Original).


There's a lot of confusing information in this thread. Remember 04+ require NON Harley Style Control Setup if you want to use the stock boards and levers. 5v to the handlebars, and as far as I am aware purchasing a Thunderheart directly from the manufacturer will not get you that.
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Yes my bike is a 2004. But has been strait wired. SO it still runs the Thunderheart Ignition module. but thats it.

Single Key ignition (off, on, start), no signals, no front brake light, No hi beam, No horn.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
mittens said:
Yes my bike is a 2004. But has been strait wired. SO it still runs the Thunderheart Ignition module. but thats it.

Single Key ignition (off, on, start), no signals, no front brake light, No hi beam, No horn.
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No turn signals? No front brake light? No hi beam? Do you have this wired some other way? I sure hope so no brake or turn signals would worry me. Never mind riding at night without a high beam
 
DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
GDOG_PITBULL said:
I am attempting to use the ground leads of the switches as the +12Vdc supply and the return leads as the command inputs for the TH.
Click to expand...
Apologies. This is what I meant in post #53 but unfortunately, didn't say out loud, duh!
GDOG_PITBULL said:
Cannot seam to get the front brake switch to provide continuity for the brake input...
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If you don't get continuity then your PCB has a problem.
GDOG_PITBULL said:
...and the horn, hi / low beam have not been tackled either.
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The wiring would be comparable to the brake light wiring.
GDOG_PITBULL said:
Not sure this will work as the grounds all seem to be connected at the board...
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Yes they are. So you'll have to change that. You're only going to need a constant 12VDC to the brake, kill, and turn switches on the right side but you'll need 12VDC to everything on the left (easier).
GDOG_PITBULL said:
...and then there is always a diode that could be in the mix.
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Again, that would be overly complicating things and it would add another component to potentially give you grief.

Am I making any sense to you?

Dennis
 
DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
And the kill switch and hi/low outputs from the hand controls are where you're going to use the 4093...

Dennis
 
GDOG_PITBULL

GDOG_PITBULL

Well-Known Member
DRBarnhart said:
Apologies. This is what I meant in post #53 but unfortunately, didn't say out loud, duh!If you don't get continuity then your PCB has a problem.The wiring would be comparable to the brake light wiring.Yes they are. So you'll have to change that. You're only going to need a constant 12VDC to the brake, kill, and turn switches on the right side but you'll need 12VDC to everything on the left (easier).Again, that would be overly complicating things and it would add another component to potentially give you grief.

Am I making any sense to you?

Dennis
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Well some of it..... I am not adding a diode....was referring to a diode that might be on the board already. Right and left grounds are +12Vdc for the turn signals. The rest will happen as I figure it out.
G
 
DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
mittens

mittens

Active Member
Th3InfamousI said:
No turn signals? No front brake light? No hi beam? Do you have this wired some other way? I sure hope so no brake or turn signals would worry me. Never mind riding at night without a high beam
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No my bike is very strait forward. has None of that.

turn key past on, bump start... and its running. Rear brake pressure siwtch is the only brake light. tails are both on when running, along with the head light on low beam.. no horn, no turns, no bright, no front brake pressure switch... Get on and ride, turn it off thats it.

I ride at night, the new LED headlight is alot better then the old school low beam I had before.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
mittens said:
No my bike is very strait forward. has None of that.

turn key past on, bump start... and its running. Rear brake pressure siwtch is the only brake light. tails are both on when running, along with the head light on low beam.. no horn, no turns, no bright, no front brake pressure switch... Get on and ride, turn it off thats it.

I ride at night, the new LED headlight is alot better then the old school low beam I had before.
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Straightforward? Sounds like missing stuff lol
 
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R

Rod p.

New Member
Thought my ehc was bad 2001 bulldog kept dieing told it was stater then it was rectifier starter would hit a wall and not turn over without a jump. Turned out battery cables shooh loose in the connector re crimped starts and runs perfectly no new ehc
 
R

Rod p.

New Member
By the way oil tank on early bigdogs has rubber with steel coil inside bushings when they go bad it shakes battery an it pulls battery cables loose inside of connector they feel tight but. There not this causes ehc to trip out hard starting . Re crimping and new bushing solves all my problems ride on .
 
HMAN

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Rod p. said:
By the way oil tank on early bigdogs has rubber with steel coil inside bushings when they go bad it shakes battery an it pulls battery cables loose inside of connector they feel tight but. There not this causes ehc to trip out hard starting . Re crimping and new bushing solves all my problems ride on .
Click to expand...
Quick question for ya Rod......are you on Cocos- Keeling Island?
 
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