05 Chopper RSD I have clutch squeal and binding when pulled all the way in. When you get ready to let the clutch out it squeals. I put a new throwout bearing , new baker 12 pk clutches and a new hardened pressure plate and it still does it. I have not put a diaphragm spring in yet. I have adjusted it accordingly several times. The carrier is not broke and the transmission shaft does not move. This thing is wearing on me and help is needed. Should I replace the clutch spring next?
Clutch squealing
- Thread starter Tonyc
- Start date
john sachs
Well-Known Member
Call Baker. They should be able to help.
John
Are you sure your clutch pack is installed correctly? Plates & fibers in the correct order? Slightly rounded edge to outer primary? Dry clutch? Wet clutch?
Yes it was doing this on the old clutch pack. I am thinking it is gonna be the diaphragm spring or a bad carrier bearing. I checked the carrier bearing good and it looked good but it may be squealing under a load. I dont know how to check the diaphragm spring other than replace it and see how it acts. This thing is throwing me for a loop. LOL
The clutch diaphragm spring has been discontinued by baker. I found an original on ebay but had to buy 2 to get it. If anybody needs one I can sell one for $60 plus shipping. Nobody has them and the heavy duty spring Baker offers is hard to pull and suppose to be for racing purposes.
Shuffle plates around. Collapse goes like this:
Lever is released so the first few plates might squeak as the rear or the deeper plates inside contact first.
Think of direction is the sharp side of the steels face the pressure plate. If pressure plate in the first part into the big clutch outer, then cuts face inside or away from you. If pressure plate is last to assemble, then all cut sides face you on assembly.
Try to look for any cut frictions or ink stamping on the fiber plates. Face the stamping in the same direction of the steels.
Wave plate has to be flat on assembly. The more concave or its static memory, the less bite holding plates from slipping. If it takes a used steel on a steel, being that one steel will move the wave plate more flat on assemble. Make the wave flatter is how you create more bite.
Lever is released so the first few plates might squeak as the rear or the deeper plates inside contact first.
Think of direction is the sharp side of the steels face the pressure plate. If pressure plate in the first part into the big clutch outer, then cuts face inside or away from you. If pressure plate is last to assemble, then all cut sides face you on assembly.
Try to look for any cut frictions or ink stamping on the fiber plates. Face the stamping in the same direction of the steels.
Wave plate has to be flat on assembly. The more concave or its static memory, the less bite holding plates from slipping. If it takes a used steel on a steel, being that one steel will move the wave plate more flat on assemble. Make the wave flatter is how you create more bite.
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Did you grease the push rod?
Jwooky
Well-Known Member
You need a backing plate that is almost perfectly aligned to the housing just larger than the OD of the bearing to press it out
Then to press in you will need a bearing press that is almost perfectly aligned to the outer race of the new bearing.
if you have or can get that, it’s easy.
Then to press in you will need a bearing press that is almost perfectly aligned to the outer race of the new bearing.
if you have or can get that, it’s easy.
Clutch fixed and working perfectly. I put a transmission seal, carrier bearing, 12 clutch pack, pressure plate, throwout bearing, diaphragm spring and my inner hub was scored on the end by the last plate so it was replaced also. I spent around $900 on parts but my clutch works like butter. Neutral easy to find and does not slip.
Awesome!! 
