107 top end rebuild.

mittens

Active Member
HAHA I have these being delivered tomorrow, the bike had 3 of 4 on before but they where old and dull, and missing one. So 13 bucks and some new chome caps with set screws. That and some new Red Talor Plug wires, Some Fancy hose clamps for a new 5/16 stainless fuel line too. Should help dress the rest of it up. Also a set of Intermediat, main and air bleed jets from WSW. for carb.


 

mittens

Active Member
After Talking to Curtis, and dome digging my Super G carb does not have removable Air Bleed jets. So it only has the standard .040 air bleed drilled in the carb. Plan to drill that out, then tap it for main jet size threads, and then I can dial in the carb a lot better.

I have a new 76 main, and a 31.5 Intermediate and a 50 air bleed from him on the way. He thinks this combo should work well with 107 and cam. then can always adjust.
 

mittens

Active Member
Jets came in. Drilled out the fixed air bleed , then drilled out the hole with a size "I" / 0.2720' Drill bit, tapped it with 5/16-24 fine tap (main jet size). Worked out well looked factory, and now my older Super G has adjustable air bleed. Had carb completely apart, polished body with mothers & Dremel. the brass (fittings with brasso). Assembled with new jets. 0.0315 inter (Custom from Curtis), 0.076 main, & 0.050 air bleed. New stainless braided fuel line. New Talor Red plug wires. Cleaned the old k&N air filter I cant find a replacement for, installed back in spike. (I know its restrictive), but what I have and looks good ha.

Bike fired right up. Choke, and 2 twists of the throttle like normal.... Let it warm up 2 full cycles on lift then changed oil & filter to get rid of assembly lube. Bundled up, took for a test ride today. Sounds little different. Deeper thumps, pulls little better up top. Nothing crazy but can tell it does better above 3k. On a 1-2-3 run it stepped out & spun second for a good bit, hooked right about on limiter in second & banged 3rd haha not the normal for the bike as it hooks ok once moving but also cold so who knows. Good times. Parked back in normal garage & no leaks issues that I see. Just cleaner, shiny motor, no more rear jug gasket leaks & new cam installed. I call it a success. Will clean up bike lift, garage and back to other projects. I have been shopping project bike to play with like a sporty 1200 or something. Wish I could score a Mastiff that needs work..... IMG_5995.jpegIMG_5996.jpegIMG_5997.jpegIMG_5998.jpegIMG_5999.jpegIMG_6002.jpegIMG_6003.jpeg
 
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mittens

Active Member
First start while it was warming up.

Turned lights off as I think it's througting more fire then before probably from
Cam/ valve overlap. It always tosses good flames on a throttle chop, but the cross talk little stuff is more then before I think. a night ride will tell once warmer but always fun to share flame videos.
 
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mittens

Active Member
If you had the gaskets (Rocker box kit, Heads/Jugs, Lifter blocks and Cam cover) you could do this very fast. It takes more time to unwire the compression releases then it does the hardware. Cleaning the pistons, Valves, and putting new seals in take a little extra but not much.
 

dtmmil

Member
If you had the gaskets (Rocker box kit, Heads/Jugs, Lifter blocks and Cam cover) you could do this very fast. It takes more time to unwire the compression releases then it does the hardware. Cleaning the pistons, Valves, and putting new seals in take a little extra but not much.
Ya i would do the cleaning stuff, no polishing though, no patience for that, and i live in gravel so its always dirty. No comp releases either, so easier yet! Haha
 

mittens

Active Member
Used a old cheap digital tach around a plug wire. Played with the idle settings some.

Looks like I it seems happy at:
950 RPMs warm,
Accel Pump 2.0 turns out (S&S starting recommendation was 2.0)
Idel air Screw. 1.25-1.5 Turns out (S&S starting recommendation was 1.25)
Throttle stop, Just BARLEY over 1/2 (less then .75) turn after contact with throttle. (S&S starting recommendation was 1/2)
 

Chong

U-238
Used a old cheap digital tach around a plug wire. Played with the idle settings some.

Looks like I it seems happy at:
950 RPMs warm,
Accel Pump 2.0 turns out (S&S starting recommendation was 2.0)
Idel air Screw. 1.25-1.5 Turns out (S&S starting recommendation was 1.25)
Throttle stop, Just BARLEY over 1/2 (less then .75) turn after contact with throttle. (S&S starting recommendation was 1/2)
Damn... like right on S&S numbers ...

2 quality events .. S&S, your assembly skill / research ! You both nailed it !

Awesome !
 

mittens

Active Member
Thanks and I agree S&S instructions are pretty spot on.. I have fixed a few S&S carbs with those settings. not sure how other mess it up. I know one bike they just where scared to clean all the carb... so still had clogs and stuff. Once cleaned, reset bike fired first try. I used to write instructions for the ARMY. So as I read them I am very critical of company's instructions. S&S is better then most. being clean, easy and basic.
 

mittens

Active Member
Just wanted to post info for my self or others later.. So after some ridding. Ended up stepping the intermediate jet back up to the 0.033. I think it likes it better. Then for fun I tried a 0.078 main jet. It cuts out when swapping over/ top end. So back to the 0.076. So it's at 0.033/0.076 now with the .600 cam.
 
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