KaptinAmerika
Guru
That's because you hardly ride your chop......:roll:
Battery replacement assistance
- Thread starter heems
- Start date
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Thank you all for your replies. I investigated Francoblay1's battery and it seems like a lateral move from all my previous batteries (no disrespect intended). Thats why I was thinking of going so far out of the norm and get a Braille. Ive read reviews on various sites of BDM owners having the b2015 and loving it. I pulled my HD battery (softail, 315cca) out of the bike and checked the receipt, purchased on 13 Oct 2013. It load tested perfectly the following day. Ill load test it again this weekend.
If its ok, should I be looking at my charging system? Im tired of carrying jumper cables. Everytime I go to a particular Hooters, I have to get jump started...everytime! This last time a diesel truck had a hard time getting me running. My bike normally kills a battery in exactly 365 days. I also wonder if there is a slow draw killing my battery. That leads me to another thought...a kill switch on the negative side of the battery cable. Just flip it whenever I park. My negative terminal has a little melt to it too. Could this affect the charging or grounding?
Lotta situations here. Any and all input is welcome.
If its ok, should I be looking at my charging system? Im tired of carrying jumper cables. Everytime I go to a particular Hooters, I have to get jump started...everytime! This last time a diesel truck had a hard time getting me running. My bike normally kills a battery in exactly 365 days. I also wonder if there is a slow draw killing my battery. That leads me to another thought...a kill switch on the negative side of the battery cable. Just flip it whenever I park. My negative terminal has a little melt to it too. Could this affect the charging or grounding?
Lotta situations here. Any and all input is welcome.
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Very easy to check for draw disconnect neg cable put ohm meter between wire and batt shouldn't be very much of any ohms being drawn not sure what is acceptable but shouldn't be much of anything anyway.
Next check voltage output at battery with the bike running should be well up over 12 volts to 14 I think ?
Next check voltage output at battery with the bike running should be well up over 12 volts to 14 I think ?
francoblay1
The Spaniard
I was going to say.. you should be faster shipping parts... but... I cannot say that.... your right.......... I need more saddle time!!! :2thumbs:
t will come...
Coolbreezin
Active Member
When I press the slam button, the engine would stall for a second before turning over. Sometimes just hang there for a up to 5 seconds. I was told this is what was breaking my jackshaft. My compression releases are working correctly. Ive tested them by laying my finger on each one when I would press the slam button. Someone told me to inject PB penetrating lube into each of the bubbles encasing the C/R's. Wouldnt the liquid damage the electronics of the units?
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Do you know if your starter has a sealed bearing installed to stop primary oil from penetrating into the starter eventually causing starter failure ?
Is there a vent button on the primary to vent primary pressure ?
If your batt is good the starter is a good place to look for an issue.
Is there a vent button on the primary to vent primary pressure ?
If your batt is good the starter is a good place to look for an issue.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
First, as said a thousand times here, DO NOT jumpstart with car engine running, specially if you like your EHC.
If a fully charged car battery has hard time to crank your engine and release valves are working, I think it's safe bet to say there is something wrong with starter, or wires are loose somewhere. And that is the reason for battery to start melting.
How is the big cable between solenoid and starter? Has insulation melted and bare cable is touching solenoid or starter? I suppose you have checked the wires on battery terminals are tight...
If all the wires are good, send the starter to Kaptain for total rebuild. Hell, it's a good idea anyway!
Tapio
If a fully charged car battery has hard time to crank your engine and release valves are working, I think it's safe bet to say there is something wrong with starter, or wires are loose somewhere. And that is the reason for battery to start melting.
How is the big cable between solenoid and starter? Has insulation melted and bare cable is touching solenoid or starter? I suppose you have checked the wires on battery terminals are tight...
If all the wires are good, send the starter to Kaptain for total rebuild. Hell, it's a good idea anyway!
Tapio
francoblay1
The Spaniard
:iagree: :2thumbs:
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Electronics are sealed
You might want to pull them and make sure they aren't clogged.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Do you know if your starter has a sealed bearing installed to stop primary oil from penetrating into the starter eventually causing starter failure ?
I do not know, but I have 2 starters (jackshaft issues) and neither appears to have oil in them. Where exactly should I look?
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Is there a vent button on the primary to vent primary pressure ?
Hell if I know. Where would this vent be, and wouldnt all BDMs have it? At least the latter years?
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If your batt is good the starter is a good place to look for an issue.
Had Advance Auto ck battery, it tested in perfect health. I keep hearing the phrase "dragging starter". What does that mean, and how do I test it?
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I checked just now for any loose or damaged wires, nothing to report. Ill R&R the starter and see what I can find on this one. My EHC lights are a little dirty, and its not firmly mounted to the metal battery box. Ill secure that also.
Kapt, if I was going to go through the trouble (and I wish I had the knowledge and tool) I would install manual C/Rs. I wanted to do that a few years ago when my originals failed, but the only place I could find them at the time was out of stock. So squirting a little juice inside the rubber cap wouldnt help in any way?
Thanks for all the advice. Any help on the 3 questions would be awesome.
I do not know, but I have 2 starters (jackshaft issues) and neither appears to have oil in them. Where exactly should I look?
-----------------------------------------------------
Is there a vent button on the primary to vent primary pressure ?
Hell if I know. Where would this vent be, and wouldnt all BDMs have it? At least the latter years?
-----------------------------------------------------
If your batt is good the starter is a good place to look for an issue.
Had Advance Auto ck battery, it tested in perfect health. I keep hearing the phrase "dragging starter". What does that mean, and how do I test it?
-----------------------------------------------------
I checked just now for any loose or damaged wires, nothing to report. Ill R&R the starter and see what I can find on this one. My EHC lights are a little dirty, and its not firmly mounted to the metal battery box. Ill secure that also.
Kapt, if I was going to go through the trouble (and I wish I had the knowledge and tool) I would install manual C/Rs. I wanted to do that a few years ago when my originals failed, but the only place I could find them at the time was out of stock. So squirting a little juice inside the rubber cap wouldnt help in any way?
Thanks for all the advice. Any help on the 3 questions would be awesome.
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Here's my sealed bearing on starter and the inside of the solenoid copper connections after I cleaned them up. Easy to do just pop the top on selonoid and you can clean it up or just send it out to be rebuilt.
The primary vent is in the middle of the primary on the backside almost as far back as the starter it will be facing your rear cylinder it's just a screen vent usually.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/technical/42668-starter.html
The primary vent is in the middle of the primary on the backside almost as far back as the starter it will be facing your rear cylinder it's just a screen vent usually.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/technical/42668-starter.html
Your using a slam button? are you hitting the run, then start button at the same time as the slam to engage the compression releases?
francoblay1
The Spaniard
yeahhhh....... I was thinking about that b4... but I refrained myself of asking........
:2thumbs:
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Srodden, thanks for the direction and pics. Ive replaced the solenoid connections and cleaned out the area. But Ive never removed the body of the starter. Ill have ot do that and see what crap I find inside. Ill ck for the primary vent. This site is such a plethora of information.
BB & francoblay1, my Start button has died. So I do the key, hit the Run, then the slam button. I wired my C/R's the solenoid. I found the directions on here somewhere. The C/R's are working, I check them almost every start.
BB & francoblay1, my Start button has died. So I do the key, hit the Run, then the slam button. I wired my C/R's the solenoid. I found the directions on here somewhere. The C/R's are working, I check them almost every start.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Coolbreezin
Active Member
I found the 4 bolts holding the starter body on. I took the top off and looked at the brushes or whatever theyre called. Everything looked clean, just a light dust. I noticed in another thread where a pic was posted showing the groove cut to allow the oil to flow back into the primary (see attached). The starter that was on the bike had the groove and there was some fluid on the groove. However, the one I put on just now didnt have the groove. I cleaned the ends of all the wires and cables involved. She fired right up, so Im happy.
Regarding the primary vent, does it simply unscrew from the outside or do I need to get into the primary?
Regarding the primary vent, does it simply unscrew from the outside or do I need to get into the primary?
Attachments
blackdogg6164
Member
don't do it!I had searched on the forum site, but go figure, as soon as I posted I did another search on google and it pulled up http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/17622-2008-pitbull-battery-removal.html
There are 4 screws - two towards the front and two towards the back under the black plastic inserts. The strap is solid steel (covered with a thin rubber band) so no stretching possible. One side of the band ties via the lug nut as shown in the post above.
Now to find a good inexpensive battery...
I put a Braille battery in mines and never feel the discomfort of a dead battery again. 1st crank start. make sure your air to fuel mixture adjustments are correct. I always reset mines to factory settings.
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
I believe it. I just checked the battery on my 2008 softail and it's the original one. Bike starts up fine and the lights don't dim at idle. I usually replace my batteries every year with a Walmart special and have had no problems what so ever. I think I'll leave this one in just to see how long it lasts. Of course you know it will die at 2am on a sat night in front of a bar with the local cop across the street....
You can probably tell from my name , have bad back .. Anyway battery replacement is no prob , and have replaced a few . POS harley batt took a shit , 2 years ,,,, been reading yur stuff and really wanna try a Braille , . 2009 BD efi . Batt goes vertical with bike and my prob hanging over bike for minutes on end is that the Neg is micro inches from frame and last time I did it , it was a bitch ,,,,
Anyone have any tips on speed on installing , quicker tips , so I don’t have to ice my POS back ?
Appreciate any answers and K9 crowd .
Thx guys
Anyone have any tips on speed on installing , quicker tips , so I don’t have to ice my POS back ?
Appreciate any answers and K9 crowd .
Thx guys