Axel, given where the thermistor is physically (not touching the fuel pump) I doubt very much that the fuel pump could generate enough heat to push the thermistor past the threshold of turning on the LED since its not set to detect the fuel pump temperature but checking the temperature of itself when not in gas (ie not cooled) If it did you'd likely see your LED get brighter and possibly burn out but you'd likely be long since out of fuel before that happens. IMHOHi,
I have a question about the EFI bikes and a possible small change in my EHC:
I just think about to add a connection between the 3 resistors at the right side of the schema what go to the LF indicator led and the microcontroller. I still have one pin at the microcontroller what is not used yet (pin 4, RA6). This input can look to the voltage value at pin A19 and switch off the output of the ehc what feed the fuel pump (right side, OUT IGNITION and TACHO_ETC).
View attachment 40349
This will protect the fuel pump but will switch off the bike as long as higher temperatures are present. On the other side it could switch off the bike permanent if a short circuit in the harness between A19 and ground is happen. What do you think about it? I usually don´t like if a device have his own life and decide between "Bike On" and "Bike Off" by it self but it might prevent the fuel pump from a defect. Does it makes sense or is it useless?
I hope you understand my confused technical talk...
All the best!
Axel
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the pic and the describtion. Yes, in this case it makes no sense to think about to switch off the fuel pump. It was just an idea...
All the best!
Axel
I agree you don't want it shutting off probably won't ever happen but if you wanted to Axle you COULD just maybe have the low fuel blink which would tell the driver he has voltage issue to the fuel pump?I don't think I would personally want an inhibit function that could potentially cause a false interruption of the fuel pump
So I put in a docs ecm system for my 07' bulldog with efi and now my check engine and low fuel light stay dim at all times. According to your post, "If they are wired direct from the VFI they will "glow dim" without any resistance in the circuit" where do I put the fuse so that they don't glow?5amp fuse circuit direct to bat is fine.
EFI also needs the speed sensor input, and output to the MIL light and low fuel light.
If they are wired direct from the VFI they will "glow dim" without any resistance in the circuit.
I don't see an issue with that.any thought on a group buy for the new EHC replacement?
I don't see an issue with that.
I have to go out of town tomorrow until the 22nd.
When I get back I will put something together.
Donna and Derek have Axel's for $499any luck with a group buy?
If you mean you turned the key on and the starter turns over immediately then no that is not the way it is supposed to work.
Unplug the solenoid starter wire, turn the key on and look at the LEDs on the EHC, refer to the LED schematic in the manual you received with the unit. Does the starter LED light up when you turn the key on? Now check voltage at the solenoid wire. Is their voltage present without pressing the start button?
Which two LEDs are litok Just checked the ehc box it has two blinking orange lights when i turn the key and then just two of the orange lights stay on. i checked the solenoid wire and it gave a reading of 12.1
Just finished up.Hi Carl,
...have you found the time to check the button input of the start button? It is the green cable from the right handle bar board what should have almost 5 Volt against ground if the start button is not pressed.
All the best!
Axel