Super hot negative terminal...thoughts from the peanut gallery?

[Sven]

I can't believe you can say the spline is not all torn away like a new one is going to walk... you'd think. So say salvage is one more shim washer heading out? That's shim first, then the rotor. Or more shim? That's to move it to less spline damage. But then there is the chain with a /, then a rotor hitting the outer primary, and less mag over the coil windings due to the walk.

Unless the spline is so hard, the rotor is soft and sacrificial? Then you worry about stress cracks on that shaft so you band-aid it back together and so lit is the fuse.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Glad you found it but I'm with Sven -- what did it do to the spline if the rotor is that bad.
Some pics would be good.

 

[ToolHandLuke]

Thankfully enough, the spline is 100%. Improper swimming is my bet. Unless the backed off compensator nut gave the magneto just enough slop to rub the inner primary housing.
The compufire magneto teeth would lose the battle against the hardened spline

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Thankfully enough, the spline is 100%. Improper swimming is my bet. Unless the backed off compensator nut gave the magneto just enough slop to rub the inner primary housing.
The compufire magneto teeth would lose the battle against the hardened splineView attachment 87947View attachment 87948

You do realize that you need to pull the stator off the bike and flush it extremely well to get rid of all the little metal particles created when the rotor was trashed. Personally, I'd pull the clutch apart as well and wash that all down as well to be safe.

 

[Sven]

What Mike said... couple of choices:
1. MIke and Me ~ I like gas so I can pour it on the weeds. Best kind of magnets are from a chevy trans pan. So that now sits in the bucket and slosh the chain in the gas. I wouldn't get near the magnet but let the suspension wash it out. Dip all the parts in oil and assemble.

2. Clean as much as you can while it's together and run the magnet over the chain anshit, around the stator lugs, fuck the clutch and let the outer primary drain magnet pickup what remains.

3. The clean as much as you can routine above, then drain the oil hot so what debris floats in the oil, it comes out on the drain. Maybe flush with plain cheap oil a few times then use the syn when done.

Anal camp for me because I can see that crush on the roller to gear, roller to inner pin on the chain, and those [added] indents like an oil pump blade making that kind of [floating metal] stamping on the gears, rather than roll over clean oil all the time, right?
__________________________________________________________

So say photo/clock wise, 9 shows a gully wash call it. 12 o'clock spine shows it's torn up too. So for sure you are going to run a washer between the collar and inner face of the rotor, right? Stator wall wise, I'd clean the wall so I can stick a clump of clay on the back wall. I'd use WD and spray that contact side for the release on the rotor. Where am I over the magnet I run more shim between the collar and rotor?

Best thing to use is a 1/2" air gun and know when to stop before you stretch the threads on the spline. This way, no float with a taller wall or less gully with no wall to rest up against. I doubt a second shim would find a rub spot, nor take up chain slop to matter. Magnetism I can't say. Only your volt meter knows for sure.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Back in t he day I would have used TriClorethelyne on the stator and probably gas on the chain.

One of the reasons I suggest pulling and cleaning the clutch is we know from his own admission he forgot loctite on the stator end.
It'd be better in my mind to redo it ALL while it's open that have to do it again because of too little locktite, or short a bit on the torque.
You're already in there, its not that much more work at this point.

Clay can also be used against the inner primary to make sure small particles are removed that might be hard to see.

Overall good luck with this.