2006 K-9 No Spark

[Mikeinjersey]

So. I just went out. Unplugged everything from CPS to Ignition module. Plugged all back together now I have blue and yellow lights and spark. It appears when I unplug things something gets reset and I have spark for a bit.
The manual doesn’t show the RIP genII wiring kit I have.
any idea what this is?

I believe that is called a momentary switch and it controls your hand controls. This video shows the installation of an RIP and it mentions this part around 16 min. into the video. This is interesting because your problems all started when you repaired the brake light connector. Quit a coincidence. MMMMM

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I believe that is called a momentary switch and it controls your hand controls. This video shows the installation of an RIP and it mentions this part around 16 min. into the video. This is interesting because your problems all started when you repaired the brake light connector. Quit a coincidence. MMMMM

Not quite sure what you are referring to there MIJ but a momentary switch is one that makes contact and breaks contact when released. (starter button) vs a regular on/off switch run/off for example.

 

[RILUSI]

Gents. I believe the module (grey box) we are referring to allows us to not to have to hold the "run" button down on the right hand control. The Run button is a momentary button and the aforementioned grey box allows one to just press the "Run" or "Off" button once and it behaves like a switch allowing you to not to have to keep it depressed. Hope that helps.

Update on my on and off spark (the issue at hand).
I basically hot wired every circuit from the ignition module.
There are 3 plugs coming from the ignition module:
1 is power (red), ground (black) and the tach (green). I ran 12v & a ground directly from the battery .. left green tach wire alone.
2 is coming from CPS. I ran new wires there as well.
3 is power and signal to the coil red+ - yellow (front cyl) - blue (rear cyl) ,, same all new wires there.

Each time I unplug and then plug in anything I have spark for the day.
After basically eliminating the wire harness for the ignition circuit .. I did each of the 3 circuits individually and have spark initially.. Next day no spark. So 3 days later... back to no consistent spark.
I can get spark by just disconnecting anything from the ignition module and re connecting it.
Bike looks like Frankenstein with wires ran all over now!

I think it has to be the ignition module. Going to order one today.
Help and suggestions from the Bigdog community has been great.

Thanks

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Gents. I believe the module (grey box) we are referring to allows us to not to have to hold the "run" button down on the right hand control. The Run button is a momentary button and the aforementioned grey box allows one to just press the "Run" or "Off" button once and it behaves like a switch allowing you to not to have to keep it depressed. Hope that helps.

Update on my on and off spark (the issue at hand).
I basically hot wired every circuit from the ignition module.
There are 3 plugs coming from the ignition module:
1 is power (red), ground (black) and the tach (green). I ran 12v & a ground directly from the battery .. left green tach wire alone.
2 is coming from CPS. I ran new wires there as well.
3 is power and signal to the coil red+ - yellow (front cyl) - blue (rear cyl) ,, same all new wires there.

Each time I unplug and then plug in anything I have spark for the day.
After basically eliminating the wire harness for the ignition circuit .. I did each of the 3 circuits individually and have spark initially.. Next day no spark. So 3 days later... back to no consistent spark.
I can get spark by just disconnecting anything from the ignition module and re connecting it.
Bike looks like Frankenstein with wires ran all over now!

I think it has to be the ignition module. Going to order one today.
Help and suggestions from the Bigdog community has been great.

Thanks

Yes the SWITCHes in the handle bar are momentary.
The microcontroller senses the grounding of a pin and sets a state in the chip.
Have you tried just disconnecting power to the ehc when this happens?

 

[RILUSI]

Yes the SWITCHes in the handle bar are momentary.
The microcontroller senses the grounding of a pin and sets a state in the chip.
Have you tried just disconnecting power to the ehc when this happens?

Thanks
I have the RIP Gen II kit. So the factory EHC is gone.
I have disconnected everything at times. Not sure I understand your question.
I unplugged the power plug on the ignition module and ran power directly from the battery in order to bi pass.
Worst part is the intermittent aspect. If it would just break for good. It would be easy to identify.

As before .. I have tried a different coil and wires - a new CPS - eliminated the PCB by disconnecting it and triggering the grounds to function - then bypassed the other circuits to eliminate the plugs connections and the wiring harness.
Always have the red light on the ignition module when powered up... The yellow and blue flashing comes and goes which equals spark is in and out.
I did order a new ignition module because that's about all that is left to try.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Thanks
I have the RIP Gen II kit. So the factory EHC is gone.
I have disconnected everything at times. Not sure I understand your question.
I unplugged the power plug on the ignition module and ran power directly from the battery in order to bi pass.
Worst part is the intermittent aspect. If it would just break for good. It would be easy to identify.

As before .. I have tried a different coil and wires - a new CPS - eliminated the PCB by disconnecting it and triggering the grounds to function - then bypassed the other circuits to eliminate the plugs connections and the wiring harness.
Always have the red light on the ignition module when powered up... The yellow and blue flashing comes and goes which equals spark is in and out.
I did order a new ignition module because that's about all that is left to try.

Once it stops, if you disconnect power and reconnect does it start right back up (no long wait between when it died and retrying)

 

[RILUSI]

No. It’s totally random. Almost never by just turning key on and off. Sometimes just unplug power lead on ignition module. Others unplug everything before it will work. Others keep bypassing and hot wiring and trying. Then like magic I have spark.
sometimes I have to pull CPS to get it to fire. Which is new.
Almost has to be Ignition Module.
If not maybe a defective new CPS.
going to eliminate some of the plug connections with solder and shrink wrap.
I’ll let you know once I get it and install it.
Wish me luck.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Where are you working on this? In your garage? Is it heated?
Has it been cold on days you had issues -- HEAT relatedissues can be a bitch to track without the right tools. HEAT releated means HOT or COLD -- both can create conditions that wiring and electronics do not like.
I would recommend you go on line and get some "freeze Spray" soif you think its something too hot you can cool it off. and likewise if its a coldissue use a hair dryer or a heat gun to warm up that area -- do not get carried away especially with the heat gun.

 

[RILUSI]

Update:
Received the new programable ignition. Installed it on Thursday last week. Plugged into existing wiring no bypass no hotwiring
just back into the RIP wiring harness like it belongs.
Bike has now started for 4 days ---many times. Not one "No spark" issue so far. (fingers crossed)
Assuming it was the ignition module. I hate to just throw parts at a problem.... but in this case it seems to have worked.
The new module only has a red light -- no blue or yellow. Time will tell.
Sure hoping this thing will behave now.
In 800 miles since I've owned it: -- Transmission rebuild (main shaft snapped in half) --- Top end rebuild (valve guide stem to guide had .018) -- Ignition (you know the story). I have spent about 100 to 1 times working on it to riding it.
Thanks for all the help

 

[HMAN]

Update:
Received the new programable ignition. Installed it on Thursday last week. Plugged into existing wiring no bypass no hotwiring
just back into the RIP wiring harness like it belongs.
Bike has now started for 4 days ---many times. Not one "No spark" issue so far. (fingers crossed)
Assuming it was the ignition module. I hate to just throw parts at a problem.... but in this case it seems to have worked.
The new module only has a red light -- no blue or yellow. Time will tell.
Sure hoping this thing will behave now.
In 800 miles since I've owned it: -- Transmission rebuild (main shaft snapped in half) --- Top end rebuild (valve guide stem to guide had .018) -- Ignition (you know the story). I have spent about 100 to 1 times working on it to riding it.
Thanks for all the help

Glad you up n rolling, now for some saddle time!