Oil Pressure Problem

Energy One

07bigdog

07BIGDOG
I checked the tappet screen today and all is well. I installed a new oil pressure relief valve spring from the HD shop. No change. Approximately 45 minutes into the ride the light starts coming on at idle. When i got home i turned the idle up a bit. I'll try that tommorrow. My next move will be as VEGAS suggested, and dump the oil and try something different. ALDOG, let me know how you made out.
 

Vegas

Well-Known Member
The engine oil is at it most viscous when it is new, conventional or synthetic. That being the case, the oil pressure will be its highest at this point. Once warmed, the viscosity will lower slightly, oil pressure will drop a little.
A little......every engine I have ever had a mechanical gauge on from cold to hot at idel drop atleast 20-30 pounds.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
If you had a calibrated pressure tester you could fit the oil sensor to the unit and test it.

What is the cost of a new oil press sensor? Might be worth just going there... cause if its not that, the oil, or filter... its the oil pump.
 

Loafington

Active Member
A little......every engine I have ever had a mechanical gauge on from cold to hot at idel drop atleast 20-30 pounds.
Yeah, a little. I said a little because no one (but you) can accurately state exactly how much oil pressure everyone will lose.
 
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Loafington

Active Member
If you had a calibrated pressure tester you could fit the oil sensor to the unit and test it.

What is the cost of a new oil press sensor? Might be worth just going there... cause if its not that, the oil, or filter... its the oil pump.
Gas,
:up: :agree: This has always been my way of thinking. Rule out everything starting with the most basic and usually least expensive before you consider replacing the bigger more expensive parts. It's called troubleshooting. Some of us know how to do it and some of us don't. Unless you have an endless amount of time and money, sure go ahead and just start ripping into your bike and change out parts until the problem goes away, shit anyone can do that.
 

dogvet

Banned
OK guys I have a question. I have an 08 Ridgeback (it is awesome) and I'm having only one problem with it. When I got it a few weeks ago I leave the dealer and get about 20 miles down the road and it started. When I let off the throttle the Oil PSI light started coming on. I pulled off to an exit and called the dealer and he said ride it back as long as it's only coming on when you decelerate. To make a long story short, I headed back and it got to where it stayed on. They met me and took the spring out of the oil pump and stretched it. That helped for a bit but before I could make it back to the dealer it was on again. They came and got it with a trailer and when we got back to the dealer, he put a gage on it and it was idling at 18 PSI or so. I head home 120 miles and it came on again before I got home. They had called BDM and they said if it is idling hot at 18 or so on the gage don't worry about it. I took the spring back out of the oil pump and stretched it 1/16 inch. That fixed it for about 400 miles. I went for my 500 mile service this weekend and it was good until I got almost all the way home. Interestingly the spring had gone back to its original length. I stretched it again by 1/8 inch and its OK again. Does anyone have any experience with this? Is there a stiffer spring I can by or is there another solution?
Crane makes a high pressure spring. I had problems with a 07 K-9 where oil pressure light would come on with idle. Installed the stiffer spring, no more problems. Inside where the spring sets in the pressure regulator valve, shim the spring by about .075". This also works well.
 

ALDog

Active Member
Latest update is I took the tappet screen out and it did have a good amount of trash in it which the S&S guy said is very common with a motor that is new. Also put in the stock HD spring and rode it to work this morning. My ride is only about 15 miles but it is through school zones and quite a few traffic lights. At cruising speed it was running about 28 psi to 30 psi. At idle sitting at the lights it was 10 psi to 12 psi. Now having said all that it was pretty cool outside this morning so I'll be able to tell more on the ride home this afternoon. It definately helped it but not sure if it is solved yet or not. I'll post again after more testing. My next step if this is not the fix is to replace the oil press. sending unit. :cheers:
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Crane makes a high pressure spring. I had problems with a 07 K-9 where oil pressure light would come on with idle. Installed the stiffer spring, no more problems. Inside where the spring sets in the pressure regulator valve, shim the spring by about .075". This also works well.
Yeah "troubleshooting" who wood a tunk!!! And I prefer to do one thing at a time. That way you know what the fix is. And I never like to "throw parts at it". Call me cheap!

ALDog... well check it out. The tappet being dirty could cause problems but I'm not sure about that. My thinking would be that the tappet being clogged would create more pressure. But maybe my thoughts on piping is "off"... I only deal with pipes, valves, and pressures everyday at work... :D
 

Eric

Banned
I have similar problem on 07 pitbull less than 200 miles, oil light comes on at idel when hot. called dealer thay said install gauge 0 to 10 psi dealer thinks it the oil vent line to tank, when i checked it appeares flatened in radius, thay will order new lines, does this sound like the problem or a more serious oil issue
 

Loafington

Active Member
I have been running synthetic oil in my K9 since 2005; I have never had a problem in the engine, primary or transmission. I use 20W50 engine, primary and transmission synthetic lubricant in all three. No shifting issues, no oil light, no leaks. Riding in the heat, and in the cold. Unless someone who is an expert in the field of oils can show no shit proof of it, synthetic vs. conventional, I am not buying the statement that if one puts synthetic in their engine, the problems worsen. If it can be proven, fine, if it cannot, stop with the opinions. Engines don't decide just to start running bad. 20W50 is 20W50. The viscosity is what it is. As a matter of fact, in all of the things I have read regarding the two, synthetic is better. Synthetic oils can withstand the extremes that engines put oil through far longer than conventional. They flow better under most if not all conditions, and last much longer.
 

07bigdog

07BIGDOG
I've done everything to trouble shoot the oil light at idle problem and still have not come up with a solution. Cleaned tappet screen, changed oil pressure relief valve spring, tried adding 1 shim (056"), then 2 shims. Dumped my oil with 200 miles on it, and put in new oil. I cranked up the idle real high. Now i'm reading in the S&S manual and it says it could be that the piston oiler is stuck open. I've looked every where in the manual and it doesn't show anything. Does anyone know about this and where is it located? Help.
 

Loafington

Active Member
Have you checked to see whether or not your oil pressure sending unit or related wiring or electrical components are faulty. If you have not done that I would not rule out the sending unit as being your problem before you say for certain that you have a bad piston oiler.
 

07bigdog

07BIGDOG
I checked out the oil sending unit and it is good. I've got the oil light to stay off for now. I've got the idle cranked right up with 1 shim in the oil pressure relief valve.(056") This is the only combination that works.This is a tempory bandaid until i can talk to somebody about the piston oiler being stuck open.
 

reloaderbmg

OLD DOG
I have been running synthetic oil in my K9 since 2005; I have never had a problem in the engine, primary or transmission. I use 20W50 engine, primary and transmission synthetic lubricant in all three. No shifting issues, no oil light, no leaks. Riding in the heat, and in the cold. Unless someone who is an expert in the field of oils can show no shit proof of it, synthetic vs. conventional, I am not buying the statement that if one puts synthetic in their engine, the problems worsen. If it can be proven, fine, if it cannot, stop with the opinions. Engines don't decide just to start running bad. 20W50 is 20W50. The viscosity is what it is. As a matter of fact, in all of the things I have read regarding the two, synthetic is better. Synthetic oils can withstand the extremes that engines put oil through far longer than conventional. They flow better under most if not all conditions, and last much longer.
THATS GOOD!! stay on the forum and learn!:rolleyes:
like we all have
 
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reloaderbmg

OLD DOG
If the oil light is coming on then you have a problem vaccum or not. Hope cleaning the screen fixes it for you so you can ride that bitch instead of work on it! Believe me I know the feeling!
Vacuum is a good point, it is highest on decel. & idle!
after changing to amsoil 25w50. found more noise in heads, as test put a small ball in vacuum hose to front head noise is now 50% of what it was!. oil gauge is a little higher at idle!
tech, said the vacuum on the heads drops oil pressure by three pounds!
 
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Vegas

Well-Known Member
Bringing this one back from the dead. :D Crankcase vaccum will absolutely drop oil pressure a little. It helps pull engine oil out of the galleys and through the rods and mains. It also helps ring seal.
 

erldawg

Guru
Good post. After last oil change my oil light started coming on while coming to a stop. I had cleaned the tappet screen at that time and thought maybe it was the dino oil I put in.
I performed this with the intent of storing the bike and we were blessed with a nice day and could not resist one last ride...
When I pull the bike out of storage I'll be changing the oil one more time and check tappet screen for debris and go from there.
 

montana

Active Member
The exact same thing happened to me when I first got my bike. I adjusted the idle and the problem was solved.
 
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