Night Train
Member
If you could have a replacement electrical system for your 2004 and newer big dogs what would it be worth to you installed (standard wiring, Carb, travel/shipping not included)? What would a replacement EFI EHC system be worth to ya. Would you like to see a plug and play security system, lighting, accessory ports, switched power?
What other type of items would you like to see in an electrical system or what would you like to see that you can add to a factory BDM electrical system (plug & Play)?
Trying to gauge the market before I jump in with both feet. I have a unique history with Big Dog Motorcycle electrical systems so I figured I should put my knowledge to use paying some bills and getting some of you guys back on the road. (at the very least get some new tools for my garage)
Thought I would start a new weekly thread (except those weeks I forget it will be "Night Trains Tip of whenever the heck I get around to it"
These tips will often times be easy and I may get a lot of "Not Shit" replies but I figure I'm bound to teach somebody something from time to time.
This may sound like common sense but when a guy is frustrated and just wants his bike to work he sometimes misses the forest thru the trees.
When ever I am troubleshooting a Big dog, Harley, Windrower or just anything with an electrical system problem I always like to start on the outside and work my way back in. What is easier for you to understand a simple push button switch or an EHC. Rule out the simple things and the things you understand then work your way into the complex item. Sometimes people are too quick to zero in on a control module then they become overwhelmed quickly and forget how the module functions. A push button is simple to connect an ohm meter or continuity meter to see if it works when you push the button. OK, now lets check the connector put the ohm meter on the connector and make sure it you are still getting continuity, Ok that works, lets check the connector at the EHC, that works. OK now it looks like everything works to the EHC from that side, lets check the output from the starter back in. You rule out the inputs and outputs then you can start to concentrate on the more complex modules.
I know, I know...no shit.
Tip of the week #2.
Some of you may have seen my tip of the week in regards to trouble shooting. The board has spoke and it looks like I put the cart before the horse. I gave you a generic tip on troubleshooting electrical systems and had quite a few of you asking for a simple Multimeter how to.
These tips are to help you out but you need to know when to say when :bang: , a few words on a message board can never replace a good tech to bail you out before you get into trouble. This is true for your dogs or your late model cars, you can cause a lot of damage if not careful. Most dealer techs do not like customers looking over their shoulder but if you have a knowledgeable buddy buy him some beer and let him teach you. If I am working on a guys bike I love to teach him as I go if he is willing to learn. Usually I end up getting too detailed and I start to see their eyes roll back int their head.
I'm probably going to get long winded here but want to give you some back ground as well as how to use the equipment.
Electronics in today's transportation vehicles offer advantages and disadvantage over the systems of yester-year. Everyone has their opinions as to this being a good or bad thing; I think it falls some where in the middle. But we are not here to debate that. Most electronics today use solid state transistors to directly drive loads or to switch relays. Output protection has come a long way but there are still some devices out there that could be severely damaged if the right tools are not used. A prime example is the old reliable test light. You know the one you hook to ground and then probe around till the light comes on to tell you there is voltage on that pin. I have one of these lights…I turned it into a garage dart and suggest you do the same. The bulbs in these test lights will draw more current than the output circuit may have been designed to handle, if the circuit output is not protected the light may actually damage the circuit.
So what is the right tool to use? A trusty digital multimeter (DMM) is all I use. I use a meter in my everyday job so I purchased a fluke, the big dog of the DMM world. They make a very nice, very accurate meter but you do not need one of these. I carry a $4.00 Harbor Freight meter on my bike and it does everything I need it to do for basic trouble shooting. They are not as accurate as more expensive meters but in trouble shooting the dogs you do not need a lot of accuracy. If you fell in love with your trusty probe test light they do make test lights now that have an LED instead of an incandescent bulb, they usually say "computer safe" or something like that on the package. This can be used and will not damage your modules; they are more expensive than a cheap multimeter and can't tell you near as much. You can make an LED test probe with about $5.00 in parts from radio hack, PM me if you want to know how.
OK this is the point I am supposed to make you a master at using a DMM. I had about a page and a half written on the subject and then realized I need to harness the technology of the internet. Instead of writing out the basic use of a DMM I figured I’d point you to a few sights that you can watch videos. You can also just google “How to use a multimeter” and you’ll get a lot of hits. Different meters function differently so I can not stress enough that a beginner should read the manual that came with their meter. You are doing research so we will not take away your man card for reading instruction. There is a geek website called How To Videos on Wonder How To - Video Tutorials, DIY Lessons & Tips that has a lot of information. Don’t reply back and call me a geek, I just found it during my google search (it’s got some cool information up there so I’ll probably go back…OK call me a geek). Copy this link into your search engine. use a multimeter - How To Videos | Wonder How To You can also go to you tube and search for videos. Here is one with some pics of a meter: using a multimeter
These sites will give you the basics; let me cover some of the more important points. You’ll probably understand the rest of these better AFTER you learn about the multimeter. Nicer meters have an auto-range function others you have to manually move the dial to a range. An easy way to tell at a glance which you have is by looking at the scale around the dial. If you see a bunch of symbols/letters and not a lot of numbers it is probably auto range. If you have a bunch of numbers on the dial it is probably manual range. To use a manual range you can usually start at the highest setting and move the dial down to get the resolution you need. Again, read the manual is the best thing you can do.
Units: Voltage (Volts), current (Amps), Resistance (Ohms). You can google the definitions, a water analogy usually works pretty well in explaining electricity. Here are a link that explain in terms of water: Water Flow Analog of Electrical Current
Electric circuits analogy to water pipes - Scientific, embedded, biomedical, electronics contents.
You may see something that says mV (Milli) or mA. 5mV is equal to .005 Volts, 5mA is equal to .005Amps, basically you move the decimal point 3 spaces to the left. Resistance may be listed as Kohms (Kilo), or Mohms (Mega) 5Kohms is equal to 5000ohms, 5Mohms is equal to 5000000ohms. Move 3 space to the right for Kilo, 6 spaces to the right for Mega.
Voltage and resistance is measured across a component, otherwise called in parallel. When you measure the voltage across a battery you are measuring in parallel. If you measure resistance from one end of a wire to another you are measuring the resistance in parallel. Current on the other hand is measured in series. You have to break the circuit and place the meter in-line with the circuit to measure Amps. This should be clear from tutorials, if it is not find another tutorial until they show you how to measure voltage, resistance and current. If you did not take my earlier advice and read the manual that came with your meter you should at least read the part about how to measure current with your meter. Some meters use the same plug ports to measure voltage, resistance/continuity and current but most have one set of ports for voltage and resistance/continuity and another port for hi current measurement and another for low current measurement. Make sure you know what the current rating is for your meter and which port is hi current and which is low. If your meter has a hi current port and a low current port always start on the hi current port and once you verify the current is low enough for the lo setting you can move to the low current port. If you start out on the low and the current is too high you will damage your meter or blow a fuse.
When measuring resistance you need to make sure all power is turned off to the circuit that you are measuring. If there is voltage present when you are trying to measure resistance you will damage your meter or get a reading that is not accurate. In most cases when you measure resistance you would remove the component from the circuit to measure resistance. If you kept it in the circuit you may get a false reading if there is another resistance path from one side of component to another.
Try to do all your voltage measurements, then any resistance measurements then your current measurements (order does not matter). If you go back and fourth between current and voltage measurements it may be easy to leave the probes plugged in the wrong ports and could damage the meter or if it is high voltage you will arc weld (I did that early in my electrical life, I haven’t done it again).
Continuity. The tutorials may have touched on continuity but I’ll explain it briefly. Continuity is essentially measuring resistance and if the resistance is less than the preset limit on the meter, an audible alarm will sound. It may be possible for you to have continuity across a circuit however if you have a bad connection point that causes a higher resistance the meter will not beep. The bad connection point actually acts like a resistor and you drop voltage to your circuit. Measure continuity the same way you measure voltage.
Accessories for your meter. Your basic meter comes with a set of probes. I would recommend you go to Sears, Grainger or some place like that and get you some accessories. I couldn’t live with out some type of alligator clip attachment. They are good for clamping onto a ground and using the other probe to check voltage. Pierce probe. This is a probe that has a needle point to pierce the wire insulation and not damage the wire. There are several types. I use a set that clips over the wire and then you screw down the clamp to pierce the wire. I also have a set that is just a very thin, long probe with a needle point. It is good for piercing wire as well as getting into tight spots, like the end of a connector to tough a pin without touching the pins around it.
Please look at some of the links, make sure you understand your meter and what you are measuring with it. If you are have questions about this subject post them and I and others will answer them. In future tips I will get into putting what you learned into practice on your dogs. Testing hand controls, voltage regulators, inputs/outputs ect. Start posting specific items you want learn about and I’ll try to accommodate them.
So until next time…
Tip of the Week #3
This week...The "Shade Tree" Mechanic Tips and Tricks
1. When routing wires be sure to avoid any sharp edges. A sharp edge, even plastic, may wear away the wire insulation over time and can cause a short or intermittent electrical problem. This was probably the number one issue I saw on 2004-2006 models. Don't forget about the holes entering and exiting the frame...they can be sharp.
2. Avoid connecting and disconnecting electronic components when power is being supplied to them, damage to the component could result. Disconnect battery when servicing the EHC, ignition switch or power and back bone harnesses. I gotta admit even though I know better I try to take the gamble to save time, 99% of time you may be OK, it is the 1% that costs you money. It is a bad habit to get into so try to break yourself of it now.
3. Wires exiting a sealed connector should have a distance of at least as tall as the connector before they are bent. Otherwise stress may be put on the wires and/or seals and defeat the seal.
4. When replacing the right hand PCB/hand control tape the cable hole before the throttle ferrule is removed so it does not fall off and go into the handlebars. I've lost more than one ferrule down a handlebar. If you are only troubleshooting or replacing the PCB on either side tape the hand control to the bars and remove the screws holding the controls together, if you don't have an extra set of hands this helps hold the control for you. To replace the right PCB you will need to remove the tape to get to the brake sensor but if you can remove the screws that hold the PCB first then you only have to worry about one thing falling onto your paint.
5. Do not over tighten the front brake sensor set screw or it will ruin the unit. Turn the set screw until it makes contact then add another 20-30 degrees. This is especially true if you have the older PCB that has a plastic sensor instead of the newer aluminum one.
6. Do not over tighten the EHC mounting nuts. Max torque is 15 in-Ibs. Do not over tighten the EHC connector screws. Tighten until they seat and then another 1/8 of a turn.
7. If the bike will sit for more than 30 days disconnect the negative cable or place on a battery tender. (Just place on a battery tender and forget about it). Always clean the battery before long storage. Periodically check the torque of the terminal bolts. Make this is as regular as checking the air in the tires. It is easy to do and may save you some trouble.
8. Always check the under tank connectors (especially 2004-2006) when ever the tank is off. Check for damage to wires and connectors.
9. Compression reliefs only stay active for ~1second after the starter has been engaged. If your bike does not start right up you may release the starter and try again. This helps the battery recover a bit as well.
10. 2004 models: The 2004 EHC has a seal in the bottom of the connector (EHC side). I found this seal does not allow the connector to fully seat. If you are having intermittent issues or moisture issues you should carefully remove this seal (use a small pick to get one side going then slowly pull straight out). Check pins to assure they are not bent, fill cavity about 1/2 way with quality dielectric grease and then push connector down till all four locks have seated.
Sorry, I kinda phoned this one in this week, snow messed my up. Next week I'll cover troubleshooting the charging system.
Till then.
Sorry I missed last week guys, I'll try to double up this week.
Tip of the Week #4
Here is an easy way to test the Voltage regulator on a 2005-2009 if you suspect it is bad. For this test the wire to the battery will be called B+, the two pins out of the stator plug will be called Pin 1 & Pin 2, case will be ground.
1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
2. remove the B+ wire from the circuit breaker.
3. Attach an ohm meter between B+ and ground (by the way the case is clear anodized therefore when measuring ground you need to measure it at the bolts). The resistance should be over 2meg Ohms, or an open circuit depending on your meter.
4. Measure resistance between B+ and Pin 1 or B+ and Pin 2. There should be great than 1megohm, or an open circuit depending on your meter.
5. Measure resistance between Pin 1 and Pin 2. There should be more than 1megohm.
6. Measure resistance between Pin 1 and ground and then Pin 2 and ground. should be greater than 1megohm.
If any of these values are less than specified you have a bad voltage regulator. This is a good test to confirm that it is bad however there has been one time that I did this test, everything measured fine but the VR was still bad. So what this means is if you are less than specified resistance you definitely have a bad VR. If you are not less you may still have a bad VR but should double check the rest of the system before you spend money for a new VR.
This is to make of for missing last week, it goes along with Tip #4 cont.
Testing the Stator.
Let me preface this be saying you need to be extremely careful when performing the AC voltage check. It should not kill you but it is sure to scare the shit out of you of you let the probes touch each other or ground and will probably damage your meter and probes. Perform this test before the beer.
To test the stator start with a resistance test.
1. Remove the VR plug from the stator.
2. Measure the resistance across both pins of the stator plug. The resistance should be 0.5ohms or less, usually it is zero on most meters. Do not forget to subtract the resistance of your meter leads. If it is an open circuit the stator windings are damaged and the stator needs to be replaced.
3. Measure resistance from Pin 1 (either Pin) to ground and then from Pin 2 to ground. It should be an open circuit in both cases. If it is not then that means the windings are shorted to ground and the stator is bad, the plug may be damage or the rotor has interfered with the wires. Remove outer primary and rotor to inspect stator.
4. If stator passes resistance check you can check the output voltage. Again BE CAREFUL!!:angry: remove the vR/Stator plug. Start the bike, measure AC voltage across the to stator pins. At idle you will have around 15-20VAC, the voltage will increase as the RPM is increased. The voltage can go up to about 60VAC or more at high RPM. Have a buddy help you run the throttle, keep you eyes on the probes and do not let them touch each other or ground. If you see voltage as indicated below the stator is functioning.
Don't forget to plug your VR back into the stator plug when your testing is done. I can admit it, I made that jr mistake and was left stranded on a prototype fuel injected bike
What other type of items would you like to see in an electrical system or what would you like to see that you can add to a factory BDM electrical system (plug & Play)?
Trying to gauge the market before I jump in with both feet. I have a unique history with Big Dog Motorcycle electrical systems so I figured I should put my knowledge to use paying some bills and getting some of you guys back on the road. (at the very least get some new tools for my garage)
Thought I would start a new weekly thread (except those weeks I forget it will be "Night Trains Tip of whenever the heck I get around to it"
These tips will often times be easy and I may get a lot of "Not Shit" replies but I figure I'm bound to teach somebody something from time to time.
This may sound like common sense but when a guy is frustrated and just wants his bike to work he sometimes misses the forest thru the trees.
When ever I am troubleshooting a Big dog, Harley, Windrower or just anything with an electrical system problem I always like to start on the outside and work my way back in. What is easier for you to understand a simple push button switch or an EHC. Rule out the simple things and the things you understand then work your way into the complex item. Sometimes people are too quick to zero in on a control module then they become overwhelmed quickly and forget how the module functions. A push button is simple to connect an ohm meter or continuity meter to see if it works when you push the button. OK, now lets check the connector put the ohm meter on the connector and make sure it you are still getting continuity, Ok that works, lets check the connector at the EHC, that works. OK now it looks like everything works to the EHC from that side, lets check the output from the starter back in. You rule out the inputs and outputs then you can start to concentrate on the more complex modules.
I know, I know...no shit.
Tip of the week #2.
Some of you may have seen my tip of the week in regards to trouble shooting. The board has spoke and it looks like I put the cart before the horse. I gave you a generic tip on troubleshooting electrical systems and had quite a few of you asking for a simple Multimeter how to.
These tips are to help you out but you need to know when to say when :bang: , a few words on a message board can never replace a good tech to bail you out before you get into trouble. This is true for your dogs or your late model cars, you can cause a lot of damage if not careful. Most dealer techs do not like customers looking over their shoulder but if you have a knowledgeable buddy buy him some beer and let him teach you. If I am working on a guys bike I love to teach him as I go if he is willing to learn. Usually I end up getting too detailed and I start to see their eyes roll back int their head.
I'm probably going to get long winded here but want to give you some back ground as well as how to use the equipment.
Electronics in today's transportation vehicles offer advantages and disadvantage over the systems of yester-year. Everyone has their opinions as to this being a good or bad thing; I think it falls some where in the middle. But we are not here to debate that. Most electronics today use solid state transistors to directly drive loads or to switch relays. Output protection has come a long way but there are still some devices out there that could be severely damaged if the right tools are not used. A prime example is the old reliable test light. You know the one you hook to ground and then probe around till the light comes on to tell you there is voltage on that pin. I have one of these lights…I turned it into a garage dart and suggest you do the same. The bulbs in these test lights will draw more current than the output circuit may have been designed to handle, if the circuit output is not protected the light may actually damage the circuit.
So what is the right tool to use? A trusty digital multimeter (DMM) is all I use. I use a meter in my everyday job so I purchased a fluke, the big dog of the DMM world. They make a very nice, very accurate meter but you do not need one of these. I carry a $4.00 Harbor Freight meter on my bike and it does everything I need it to do for basic trouble shooting. They are not as accurate as more expensive meters but in trouble shooting the dogs you do not need a lot of accuracy. If you fell in love with your trusty probe test light they do make test lights now that have an LED instead of an incandescent bulb, they usually say "computer safe" or something like that on the package. This can be used and will not damage your modules; they are more expensive than a cheap multimeter and can't tell you near as much. You can make an LED test probe with about $5.00 in parts from radio hack, PM me if you want to know how.
OK this is the point I am supposed to make you a master at using a DMM. I had about a page and a half written on the subject and then realized I need to harness the technology of the internet. Instead of writing out the basic use of a DMM I figured I’d point you to a few sights that you can watch videos. You can also just google “How to use a multimeter” and you’ll get a lot of hits. Different meters function differently so I can not stress enough that a beginner should read the manual that came with their meter. You are doing research so we will not take away your man card for reading instruction. There is a geek website called How To Videos on Wonder How To - Video Tutorials, DIY Lessons & Tips that has a lot of information. Don’t reply back and call me a geek, I just found it during my google search (it’s got some cool information up there so I’ll probably go back…OK call me a geek). Copy this link into your search engine. use a multimeter - How To Videos | Wonder How To You can also go to you tube and search for videos. Here is one with some pics of a meter: using a multimeter
These sites will give you the basics; let me cover some of the more important points. You’ll probably understand the rest of these better AFTER you learn about the multimeter. Nicer meters have an auto-range function others you have to manually move the dial to a range. An easy way to tell at a glance which you have is by looking at the scale around the dial. If you see a bunch of symbols/letters and not a lot of numbers it is probably auto range. If you have a bunch of numbers on the dial it is probably manual range. To use a manual range you can usually start at the highest setting and move the dial down to get the resolution you need. Again, read the manual is the best thing you can do.
Units: Voltage (Volts), current (Amps), Resistance (Ohms). You can google the definitions, a water analogy usually works pretty well in explaining electricity. Here are a link that explain in terms of water: Water Flow Analog of Electrical Current
Electric circuits analogy to water pipes - Scientific, embedded, biomedical, electronics contents.
You may see something that says mV (Milli) or mA. 5mV is equal to .005 Volts, 5mA is equal to .005Amps, basically you move the decimal point 3 spaces to the left. Resistance may be listed as Kohms (Kilo), or Mohms (Mega) 5Kohms is equal to 5000ohms, 5Mohms is equal to 5000000ohms. Move 3 space to the right for Kilo, 6 spaces to the right for Mega.
Voltage and resistance is measured across a component, otherwise called in parallel. When you measure the voltage across a battery you are measuring in parallel. If you measure resistance from one end of a wire to another you are measuring the resistance in parallel. Current on the other hand is measured in series. You have to break the circuit and place the meter in-line with the circuit to measure Amps. This should be clear from tutorials, if it is not find another tutorial until they show you how to measure voltage, resistance and current. If you did not take my earlier advice and read the manual that came with your meter you should at least read the part about how to measure current with your meter. Some meters use the same plug ports to measure voltage, resistance/continuity and current but most have one set of ports for voltage and resistance/continuity and another port for hi current measurement and another for low current measurement. Make sure you know what the current rating is for your meter and which port is hi current and which is low. If your meter has a hi current port and a low current port always start on the hi current port and once you verify the current is low enough for the lo setting you can move to the low current port. If you start out on the low and the current is too high you will damage your meter or blow a fuse.
When measuring resistance you need to make sure all power is turned off to the circuit that you are measuring. If there is voltage present when you are trying to measure resistance you will damage your meter or get a reading that is not accurate. In most cases when you measure resistance you would remove the component from the circuit to measure resistance. If you kept it in the circuit you may get a false reading if there is another resistance path from one side of component to another.
Try to do all your voltage measurements, then any resistance measurements then your current measurements (order does not matter). If you go back and fourth between current and voltage measurements it may be easy to leave the probes plugged in the wrong ports and could damage the meter or if it is high voltage you will arc weld (I did that early in my electrical life, I haven’t done it again).
Continuity. The tutorials may have touched on continuity but I’ll explain it briefly. Continuity is essentially measuring resistance and if the resistance is less than the preset limit on the meter, an audible alarm will sound. It may be possible for you to have continuity across a circuit however if you have a bad connection point that causes a higher resistance the meter will not beep. The bad connection point actually acts like a resistor and you drop voltage to your circuit. Measure continuity the same way you measure voltage.
Accessories for your meter. Your basic meter comes with a set of probes. I would recommend you go to Sears, Grainger or some place like that and get you some accessories. I couldn’t live with out some type of alligator clip attachment. They are good for clamping onto a ground and using the other probe to check voltage. Pierce probe. This is a probe that has a needle point to pierce the wire insulation and not damage the wire. There are several types. I use a set that clips over the wire and then you screw down the clamp to pierce the wire. I also have a set that is just a very thin, long probe with a needle point. It is good for piercing wire as well as getting into tight spots, like the end of a connector to tough a pin without touching the pins around it.
Please look at some of the links, make sure you understand your meter and what you are measuring with it. If you are have questions about this subject post them and I and others will answer them. In future tips I will get into putting what you learned into practice on your dogs. Testing hand controls, voltage regulators, inputs/outputs ect. Start posting specific items you want learn about and I’ll try to accommodate them.
So until next time…
Tip of the Week #3
This week...The "Shade Tree" Mechanic Tips and Tricks
1. When routing wires be sure to avoid any sharp edges. A sharp edge, even plastic, may wear away the wire insulation over time and can cause a short or intermittent electrical problem. This was probably the number one issue I saw on 2004-2006 models. Don't forget about the holes entering and exiting the frame...they can be sharp.
2. Avoid connecting and disconnecting electronic components when power is being supplied to them, damage to the component could result. Disconnect battery when servicing the EHC, ignition switch or power and back bone harnesses. I gotta admit even though I know better I try to take the gamble to save time, 99% of time you may be OK, it is the 1% that costs you money. It is a bad habit to get into so try to break yourself of it now.
3. Wires exiting a sealed connector should have a distance of at least as tall as the connector before they are bent. Otherwise stress may be put on the wires and/or seals and defeat the seal.
4. When replacing the right hand PCB/hand control tape the cable hole before the throttle ferrule is removed so it does not fall off and go into the handlebars. I've lost more than one ferrule down a handlebar. If you are only troubleshooting or replacing the PCB on either side tape the hand control to the bars and remove the screws holding the controls together, if you don't have an extra set of hands this helps hold the control for you. To replace the right PCB you will need to remove the tape to get to the brake sensor but if you can remove the screws that hold the PCB first then you only have to worry about one thing falling onto your paint.
5. Do not over tighten the front brake sensor set screw or it will ruin the unit. Turn the set screw until it makes contact then add another 20-30 degrees. This is especially true if you have the older PCB that has a plastic sensor instead of the newer aluminum one.
6. Do not over tighten the EHC mounting nuts. Max torque is 15 in-Ibs. Do not over tighten the EHC connector screws. Tighten until they seat and then another 1/8 of a turn.
7. If the bike will sit for more than 30 days disconnect the negative cable or place on a battery tender. (Just place on a battery tender and forget about it). Always clean the battery before long storage. Periodically check the torque of the terminal bolts. Make this is as regular as checking the air in the tires. It is easy to do and may save you some trouble.
8. Always check the under tank connectors (especially 2004-2006) when ever the tank is off. Check for damage to wires and connectors.
9. Compression reliefs only stay active for ~1second after the starter has been engaged. If your bike does not start right up you may release the starter and try again. This helps the battery recover a bit as well.
10. 2004 models: The 2004 EHC has a seal in the bottom of the connector (EHC side). I found this seal does not allow the connector to fully seat. If you are having intermittent issues or moisture issues you should carefully remove this seal (use a small pick to get one side going then slowly pull straight out). Check pins to assure they are not bent, fill cavity about 1/2 way with quality dielectric grease and then push connector down till all four locks have seated.
Sorry, I kinda phoned this one in this week, snow messed my up. Next week I'll cover troubleshooting the charging system.
Till then.
Sorry I missed last week guys, I'll try to double up this week.
Tip of the Week #4
Here is an easy way to test the Voltage regulator on a 2005-2009 if you suspect it is bad. For this test the wire to the battery will be called B+, the two pins out of the stator plug will be called Pin 1 & Pin 2, case will be ground.
1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
2. remove the B+ wire from the circuit breaker.
3. Attach an ohm meter between B+ and ground (by the way the case is clear anodized therefore when measuring ground you need to measure it at the bolts). The resistance should be over 2meg Ohms, or an open circuit depending on your meter.
4. Measure resistance between B+ and Pin 1 or B+ and Pin 2. There should be great than 1megohm, or an open circuit depending on your meter.
5. Measure resistance between Pin 1 and Pin 2. There should be more than 1megohm.
6. Measure resistance between Pin 1 and ground and then Pin 2 and ground. should be greater than 1megohm.
If any of these values are less than specified you have a bad voltage regulator. This is a good test to confirm that it is bad however there has been one time that I did this test, everything measured fine but the VR was still bad. So what this means is if you are less than specified resistance you definitely have a bad VR. If you are not less you may still have a bad VR but should double check the rest of the system before you spend money for a new VR.
This is to make of for missing last week, it goes along with Tip #4 cont.
Testing the Stator.
Let me preface this be saying you need to be extremely careful when performing the AC voltage check. It should not kill you but it is sure to scare the shit out of you of you let the probes touch each other or ground and will probably damage your meter and probes. Perform this test before the beer.
To test the stator start with a resistance test.
1. Remove the VR plug from the stator.
2. Measure the resistance across both pins of the stator plug. The resistance should be 0.5ohms or less, usually it is zero on most meters. Do not forget to subtract the resistance of your meter leads. If it is an open circuit the stator windings are damaged and the stator needs to be replaced.
3. Measure resistance from Pin 1 (either Pin) to ground and then from Pin 2 to ground. It should be an open circuit in both cases. If it is not then that means the windings are shorted to ground and the stator is bad, the plug may be damage or the rotor has interfered with the wires. Remove outer primary and rotor to inspect stator.
4. If stator passes resistance check you can check the output voltage. Again BE CAREFUL!!:angry: remove the vR/Stator plug. Start the bike, measure AC voltage across the to stator pins. At idle you will have around 15-20VAC, the voltage will increase as the RPM is increased. The voltage can go up to about 60VAC or more at high RPM. Have a buddy help you run the throttle, keep you eyes on the probes and do not let them touch each other or ground. If you see voltage as indicated below the stator is functioning.
Don't forget to plug your VR back into the stator plug when your testing is done. I can admit it, I made that jr mistake and was left stranded on a prototype fuel injected bike
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