Chopper Dave
SIICK!!!
damn bro....never heard of that before.....have you tried pm'n Night Train or Ohmster? hope you get your shit fixed......
click click starter problems
- Thread starter chihuasbigdog
- Start date
rufroggy
Active Member
No I havent yet. I dont know what the hell is going on.. Was going to buy a new battery this am but thought I would give her another chance.. It's sitting outside idling as I type..
I think my house is haunted (and all the shit in it.lol) this month it's been the AC, fridge, now the bike..Damn give a brother a break..
Chopper Dave
SIICK!!!
no shit! didn't you say you tried a friends battery and it did the same thing......maybe see what Night Train or Ohmster say.....this one has me puzzled...
rufroggy
Active Member
I will do that..I'm thinking a short somewhere but who knows..Also, I killed the bike just now and was able to re-start it 5-6 times in a row.. I will wait a few and try it again.
MARV
Well-Known Member
there was a SB on the right hand control circuit board. on my bike the run/start switch would work sporadically. the way i traced it was, under the tank, opening the disconnect to the hand control and grounding out the run then grounding out the start wires and the bike would start. this told me the problem was north of the disconnect, the hand control circuit board.
not saying its your problem but it might be. might also be the key switch. you could disconnect that and use a jumper next time it doesnt start.
basically just trial and error unless you have the BD electronic tester kit which have different disconnect whips.
not saying its your problem but it might be. might also be the key switch. you could disconnect that and use a jumper next time it doesnt start.
basically just trial and error unless you have the BD electronic tester kit which have different disconnect whips.
rufroggy
Active Member
Thanks for the input Marv.. I'm am leaning to the CB for the run/start switch at this point. I went out again. Started it, turned it off, tried to start and click. Turned it off and blam started right up.. did this repeatedly and started 9 of 10 times but once it just clicked.
However, yesterday while checkign things out, I got power to the solenoid when pushing the "start" button so I dont know. Oh well, my luck I will go out today (and I am going out with it being 75 degrees) and get stuck.
To change out the CB for the start switch, you have to access it from the back side right? Two screws?
rufroggy
Active Member
Everything done downto the CB and key Switch. Thanks again for the input. This site and the amount of experienced wrenchers is off the chart!
Before you pull the two screws out of the hand control remember to back off the lock screw stud on the bottom side of the controls. This is what prevents the controls from rotating on the bar. When you put it back together tighten down the two screws first then set the lock stud.
Becareful of the brake switch wire inside!!! Use a lot of die electric grease on the connection when you switch out the board. Lots of water gets in and take the time to lube your throttle cables.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
I also had a similar issue as Marv shortly after I bought my 05. Come to find out it was the board on the right hand side and once it was replaced never had the problem again. When it did act up, it was pretty much you are describing with it hit mulitple time and then not at all on to hit again the not.
PITA for sure-new redesigned board took care of my problems
PITA for sure-new redesigned board took care of my problems
Each time you try to start it, are you cycling the key?
Consider pulling the gas tank and looking under there. You can check the connector for the handlebar controls and check the connection on the wires to the key switch. Maybe even straight wire those to eliminate the key switch as a possible problem.
Consider pulling the gas tank and looking under there. You can check the connector for the handlebar controls and check the connection on the wires to the key switch. Maybe even straight wire those to eliminate the key switch as a possible problem.
rufroggy
Active Member
Thanks Gas.. I have done it both ways..Cycle the key switch, and or not cycle the key switch..I think I can access the connectors w/o pulling the tank on mine.. at least when I looked yesterday I saw two (2) white connectors. I didnt check them but i assume those are the connectors your referring too...
Also, after 30+ trouble free starts yesterday, I took the Dog out to a local free beer bike get together. The only dog among the 150 bikes there. Time to leave CLICK..DAMN IT! Buddy left to go get the trailer while I continued to try it.. 10 minutes and 40 attempts later, she fired up...
changing the control board today!
MARV
Well-Known Member
rufroggy
Active Member
OK, got the tank off, everything looks good (?) as far as I can tell (everything conencted, no frayed wires, etc). pulled the right hand circuit board and am heading off to get the part ($48.29). After looking at the board, it doesnt appear to have any obvious signs of stress (burns, cracks, etc.) so I dont know if this is my problem or not..stay posted! I will attempt to post a few picks of everything apart later, right now eager to get it back together..
thanks to Gas, Marv, Fibersnake and everyone else who is offering suggestions.
thanks to Gas, Marv, Fibersnake and everyone else who is offering suggestions.
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
A couple other little things I didn't see mentioned if you haven't already checked them...
You said you have power to the starter but do you have a good solid ground?
And make sure the plunger in the solenoid is free to move and that you have continuity from the "hot" to ground.
Dennis
You said you have power to the starter but do you have a good solid ground?
And make sure the plunger in the solenoid is free to move and that you have continuity from the "hot" to ground.
Dennis
rufroggy
Active Member
Thanks Dennis. I pulled the plunger when I cleaned the contacts. It was free. The damn NEW circuit board did not take care of my problem. I jumped across the 2 key wires, everything lit up; tried to start and got the same click. Im at the end of what I can do any more suggestions from anyone? It may be time to send it to the shop dammit..
Agentbman
Member
Spyke Inc. Solenoid End Cover Starter Button - DennisKirk.com
Does anyone know if thise would work on our bikes as a backup switch or in my case a cracked internal wire? I know if the EHC takes a dump it wont help, but I was looking at it for an emergency type situation.
Does anyone know if thise would work on our bikes as a backup switch or in my case a cracked internal wire? I know if the EHC takes a dump it wont help, but I was looking at it for an emergency type situation.
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
I know you cleaned the contacts IN the solenoid but you also scrubbed off the contact ON the plunger with emery cloth too, right?
And continuity is good in the solenoid (measured with the power wire disconnected)? I don't know the exact value but the ohms will be pretty low, just not "0".
Do you have 12V on the little power wire WHILE you have the start switch pressed? (If it drops significantly when you press the button there's probably a bad connection somewhere.)
If everything else is good, you hit the start button and there's good power to the solenoid and it has a solid ground but the solenoid still doesn't pull in it has to be a bad starter solenoid...
Dennis
And continuity is good in the solenoid (measured with the power wire disconnected)? I don't know the exact value but the ohms will be pretty low, just not "0".
Do you have 12V on the little power wire WHILE you have the start switch pressed? (If it drops significantly when you press the button there's probably a bad connection somewhere.)
If everything else is good, you hit the start button and there's good power to the solenoid and it has a solid ground but the solenoid still doesn't pull in it has to be a bad starter solenoid...
Dennis
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
No reason it wouldn't assuming the cracked internal wire you're talking about is in the solenoid. It takes the solenoid (and power to it) out of the start circuit.
But if the cracked wire is in the starter motor itself you're done...
Dennis
You would need to wait until the EHC has gone through it's POST BEFORE you pressed it though!