click click starter problems

rufroggy

Active Member
Maybe, just maybe its a ground..started pulling the starter off. when i attempted to tighten the ground the other day, i wasnt aware that the hex head bolt was stripped. I just FOR SURE have the ground tight.. bike started..letting it get hot now as I type.. sorry to bore everybody withthe details but for me it's like therapy...stayed tuned...
 

LARS

sippin & cruzin
Not a bore,it's just nuckin futs,I haven't gotten a chance to even look at my bike in three day's,been drinkin:) :cheers:
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
If its a heat problem it could be something electrical. Is it still just not cranking? Consider pulling off your big battery cables and checking them in detail for any problems. I have heard of them completely loosing connection on the inside of their large connectors. Could never notice unless you took the wire out... Which makes me think... When it won't start are the big wires (more so the positive) getting hot?

Cause if the little green wire is getting power then it must be the starter itself of the big power going to it.
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
Cause if the little green wire is getting power then it must be the starter itself of the big power going to it.
While your bike is having one of its "no start" fits, WHILE THE KEY IS STILL ON AND START BUTTON STILL PRESSED see if there's 12v at the "little green wire" on starter solenoid. Wiggle the wire around while you have the meter on it!

If you ALWAYS have 12V on that wire (start or no start) and you don't hear the solenoid pull in then you either have a bad starter solenoid or a bad ground. You can check the solenoid with the "how to" I posted or if you're keen to use your new meter that can be done too! :D

It's a waste of time and money to shotgun parts at it hoping to find the right one. The only way you're going to get this fixed is to logically go step by step ruling things out. :up:

Dennis
 

rufroggy

Active Member
While your bike is having one of its "no start" fits, WHILE THE KEY IS STILL ON AND START BUTTON STILL PRESSED see if there's 12v at the "little green wire" on starter solenoid. "

I did and I do witht he newly acquired hi-tech $29 dollar radio shack meter that has already blowna fuse!


"Wiggle the wire around while you have the meter on it!

If you ALWAYS have 12V on that wire (start or no start) and you don't hear the solenoid pull in then you either have a bad starter solenoid or a bad ground. "

Key up, run button then start button and I was getting the CRV (comp Relief Valve) "click."

"You can check the solenoid with the "how to" I posted or if you're keen to use your new meter that can be done too! :D "

Verify exactly, with the meter, what to check. I know you did this and I'm sure I followed directions which I might add is difficult for me, especially after a case of beer..

"It's a waste of time and money to shotgun parts at it hoping to find the right one."

Only changed out the circuit board and it was an upgraded board so no harm there but I do agree....


"The only way you're going to get this fixed is to logically go step by step ruling things out. :up: "

Thats part of my problem, I have no logic!
Dennis

Going out to start it now. I let it run for 45 minutes last night after re-tightening the ground wire for the starter and it fired up. Stayed tuned!
 

rufroggy

Active Member
If its a heat problem it could be something electrical. Is it still just not cranking? Consider pulling off your big battery cables and checking them in detail for any problems. I have heard of them completely loosing connection on the inside of their large connectors. Could never notice unless you took the wire out... Which makes me think... When it won't start are the big wires (more so the positive) getting hot?

Cause if the little green wire is getting power then it must be the starter itself of the big power going to it.
Gas, I really have not checked them but I did check continuity on both cables and no probs there. The baffling part is it has always started after I screwed with the solenoid; go out for a trip to warm everything up, come back and no start.

Last night was the first time since I began to have issues that I let it get hot and it re-started. I tightened the ground wire.

The starter is making no noise, not dragging and when it does turn over it does so with authority. I know I'm shooting myself in the foot but I really think that the ground wire is the issue and it makes complete sense for it to be the ground wire.

I feel like an ass for not checking it closer before now considering I have spent so much time and have taken apart the bike twice now...I will keep you poster bro!
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
May want to consider just changing the wires. Its a "part throwing" mentality but at least it isn't expensive.
 

rufroggy

Active Member
May want to consider just changing the wires. Its a "part throwing" mentality but at least it isn't expensive.
Hey brother hope ur doing better! I have not had another issue since really tightening the ground wire. I spoke to a "real" MC mechanic and he told me on the big dogs, he always goes in and adds a "star" washer that digs into the clear coat on the paint as he has had numerous issues withthe grounds on them.

At this point, I'm cautiously optimistic but I did check today and found out that I have two months left on my extended warrantly. I thought it had already expired and did all of this stuff when I coul dhave taken it to the shop.. The problem is I really enjoyed it!
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
The thing is that your ground goes to your inner primary which is bolted to the engine and tranny which sit on (hopefully) bare metal spots on the frame. Not saying a star washer wouldn't help but its not going against paint.
 

rufroggy

Active Member
The thing is that your ground goes to your inner primary which is bolted to the engine and tranny which sit on (hopefully) bare metal spots on the frame. Not saying a star washer wouldn't help but its not going against paint.

Good point! The RSD the same? Maybe he was talking on bikes in general.. Maybe he doesnt have a clue what the hell he's talking about..either way my baby (my baby tonight; my bitch if it doesnt run tommorrow..lol) is running.

Shit maybe I need to check the bolts to the primary, tranny, etc. See what you started..GO TO BED. LOL
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Well that is how it is on my RSD... and I think (could be wrong and wouldn't be the first time) its the same on the LSD. But bad grounds can do all kinds of whacky things.
 

Vegas

Well-Known Member
Hey brother hope ur doing better! I have not had another issue since really tightening the ground wire. I spoke to a "real" MC mechanic and he told me on the big dogs, he always goes in and adds a "star" washer that digs into the clear coat on the paint as he has had numerous issues withthe grounds on them.

At this point, I'm cautiously optimistic but I did check today and found out that I have two months left on my extended warrantly. I thought it had already expired and did all of this stuff when I coul dhave taken it to the shop.. The problem is I really enjoyed it!

Voltage drop test we discussed will find that issue.
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
rufroggy said:
... the newly acquired hi-tech $29 dollar radio shack meter that has already blowna fuse!
Had the meter on the amperage scale, eh? :rolleyes:

DRBarnhart said:
"You can check the solenoid with the "how to" I posted or if you're keen to use your new meter that can be done too!"
rufroggy said:
Verify exactly, with the meter, what to check. I know you did this and I'm sure I followed directions which I might add is difficult for me, especially after a case of beer..
OK, take a look at the first pic in my "how to". With the starter still in the bike and all three wires disconnected check for continuity (ohms) from "P" to ground and from "TG" to ground. I'm thinking the best "ground" to use at this point would be the battery negative (-). I don't know the actual value you should get on your meter when you do this check so do this first, touch the leads of your meter together. What's the value shown on your meter? Probably something like .2 or .3 ohms? The reading you get from the starter solenoid (P/TG to ground) should be a little higher than whatever number you got when you touched your meter leads together. So what'd ya get? :confused:

Checking continuity is not a bad way to go but checking your starter solenoid like in the "how to" is better... :D

Keep in mind that the contacts inside the solenoid cover that you cleaned up have nothing to do with whether the solenoid does its intial "click." Those half moon looking bad boys supply the main power to the starter motor AND the power to hold in the solenoid plunger AFTER you hear a "click" in the solenoid. Since your solenoid never pulls in it makes these contacts a moot point for now... :)

Dennis
 

rufroggy

Active Member
OK, now I'm curious, what is a "real" mechanic? :lol:

Dennis

Apparently someone other than me!

Still working the bugs out. 3 trouble free days of "good starts" until today. Feeling confident, I took a ride to gas up. Bike started up after refilling. Took another 10-15 minute trip to warm her up. Drove home, killed it and the now very familiar "click" returns. Turned the key off and back on and it starts. 5-6 additional consecutive starts without any problem.

However, now I got another strange issue. When I key up, the speedo is sweeping downwards, bottoming out and then up to 20 mph before returing to 0. Strange shit!
 

EastTxDog

Member
Here's a different variation of a starting issue.
My bike is an 04 Chopper w/ about 7K mi.
I took my battery to the Batteries Plus place,
who load tested it and said the battery was good.
(They set the load tester to 200A & the battery pulled 191A).
I installed the solenoid rebuild kit,
even though I knew it would not solve the issue.
I removed the starter/solenoid & took it to a electrical shop,
and the starter fired every time.
I can remove the solenoid cover plate and manually push in the solenoid plunger, and it starts right up.
I discovered that I could loosen the three solenoid cover bolts,
and the bike will fire.
However, if I screw the solenoid cover bolts back in, it won't fire.
Recently, I used the loosen the cover method to start the bike,
and neglected to tighten the three cover bolts, and one of the sockets is now stripped out.
I also scrubbed the inside of the solenoid cover w/ emery cloth,
thinking that the cover could be part of the grounding system,
but that didn't help either.
The grounding cable is on the back mounting bolt on the starter,
and runs to the negative post of the battery.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
 
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