Pics of fouled plugs????

[woodbutcher]

go back to sleep, mike. :roll::roll::roll: the broken one was in the front, this one was in the rear.

 

[BadBrad]

go back to sleep, mike. :roll::roll::roll: the broken one was in the front, this one was in the rear.

Ditto on that woodbutcher! The valve broke in the front cylinder and that repair was done by a local shop. They do good work, but damn, the labor was as much as the parts. :angry: I got the whole upper end (both cylinders) off ebay for $850 along with 2 new sets of rings. Only needed half, so I sold the other half and got some of my money back. I had just joined the forum and had just bought my Dog. Some of you guys are so technical that it's hard to follow, but once I understand how things work, I'll get better with time. Right now, I just want to ride!

 

[lee]

don't do yourself down Brad - that's some good work you're doing there. Most on here, including me, would be very wary about going inside the motor itself.

 

[BadBrad]

don't do yourself down Brad - that's some good work you're doing there. Most on here, including me, would be very wary about going inside the motor itself.

Lee, I don't believe that for a second, but thanks for the comment anyway. You and a lot of others on this site know your shit, and that's not just from reading comments on the forum. There's a handful of you that everyone can count on for damn good advice and you can bet your ass, we know who you are and we pay close attention. I'm certainly not one that is dumb struck and believes everything he hears. I think I got "john" a little (lot) pissed when I asked if he was on dope or dog food because I had a visual of something in my mind and it wasn't what he was talking about. It turns out that he races and rebuilds these motors 24/7, but I'm still going to piss off a few folks unless they can explain something in my terms, which means you have to "simplyfy".

Too many years of viewing porn has me picture oriented. I can understand anything with a good pic!

Lee, Dennis, Bob, Mike, John, Ray,Wood, V, Marv and all you others, Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[lee]

:2thumbs:

 

[BadBrad]

Well, after extracting the bolt, removing the head to clean it up and inspecting the piston/cylinder, I got it all back together last night. Cranked it up and all sounded good! Took it for a test ride and about a mile down the road, it began hitting on one cylinder again when I came to an idle. :angry: Got back to the house and checked for leaks, but found nothing obvious. :bang: Let it sit for a while as I dried my tears, went back and cranked it again, and the idle sounded good again. I'm wondering if I should have taken the head and had the springs/valves removed to clean. There was a lot of carbon build up and some may be keeping the valve from closing completely. I cleaned it up before replacing it and it looked good visually. I'll try agian this evening when I get home and see what happens. Is there something you can put through the carb to help remove any buildup that might be on the valve? I put SeaFoam in it earlier when I thought all this was a fuel problem, so the tank still has that in it. Maybe it's time for that "leak-down" test to see if the valves are seating properly or perhaps the intake may not have made a good seal. Suggestions? Comments?

 

[Raywood]

Well that's a bummer. Hope you discover what the problem is. :up:

 

[BadBrad]

Well that's a bummer. Hope you discover what the problem is. :up:

NO RAY!! That's not the answer I was looking for! You were suppose to tell me what was causing this. Did you get your bike back together? Is there anything you can spray in the carb or put in the tank that will help with carbon build up? With a little luck, maybe we'll both be riding this weekend. Everyone kept telling me how lucky I was to only have a bolt lodged in my valve spring. Lucky would have been not to have any problems to begin with. Good luck on your bike.

 

[BadBrad]

Brad,
I know you'll get all kinds of theories and remarks of test to perform from everyone wanting too help. So here's mine!
1- Perform a compression check
2- Perform a "Leak Down" like you're thinking.

By thinking about what you're describing, I just wondering if a lifter might have gone away. Just a Maybe

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

dead

Dead, Help me out here. IS the lifter directly under the pushrod? What do you mean by "gone away"? I give it a good home and feed it regular. :roll: Is there a way to check what you're talking about? Pulling the push rod is quick and easy. I think I read on a thread that you can use a magnet to extract the lifter, but since I wasn't sure where the lifter was, I didn't do that. :loony: But I do have a magnet! I don't recall reading about the "lifters" in the manual, but I may have not been looking for it in the right place.

 

[Raywood]

Did you get your bike back together?

Not yet, tried putting on the cylinders but couldn't do it by myself with all those rings. No buddies came over yesterday. Have one coming this afternoon to help.

 

[Raywood]

Dead, Help me out here. IS the lifter directly under the pushrod? What do you mean by "gone away"? I give it a good home and feed it regular. :roll: Is there a way to check what you're talking about? Pulling the push rod is quick and easy. I think I read on a thread that you can use a magnet to extract the lifter, but since I wasn't sure where the lifter was, I didn't do that. :loony: But I do have a magnet! I don't recall reading about the "lifters" in the manual, but I may have not been looking for it in the right place.

I mentioned this the other day. With that stuck spring the cam is still rotating and may have beat up the lifter that is basically just bouncing around with the spring stuck by that bolt.

 

[BadBrad]

I mentioned this the other day. With that stuck spring the cam is still rotating and may have beat up the lifter that is basically just bouncing around with the spring stuck by that bolt.

I just happen to have a 12-point, quarter inch socket. I guess if the lifter is beat up/bad, it would be visually obvious? If it gives me trouble again this afternoon, I'll extract the lifters and take a look at'em. When I rev up the moter, both cylinders seem to be hitting. Only on idle did it start hitting on one. And yes, the rear was not hitting. It did seem to pop when test riding and when I put my hand to the back of the pipe, the front cylinder seemed to have a smooth flow where the rear was popping out exhaust.

 

[BadBrad]

Things that make you say, "Hmmmmmmmmmm".

 

[MARV]

check for an intake leak

 

[BadBrad]

check for an intake leak

Thanks guys. I guess I'll start with a leak down test. That should show if the intake or valves didn't seal. If all is well there, on to the lifters. Who knows? Maybe it fixed itself while I was at work today! Fat chance. I've been needing to get another compressor anyway. Do the car parts stores sell the adapter to screw into the spark plug hole for the compressor to hook up to or is this something that generally has to be ordered special somewhere?

 

[MARV]

brad, before you break it down again just check that the manifold to head seal is good. if not it could have an intake leak. which lets air in at the head which dilutes your fuel mix.

it could be so bad that it doesnt burn at idle but when you throttle it up it might.

just a thought that can be an easy fix.

get it running, throttle it up, spray some wd40 (with the straw to pinpoint) at the manifold head connection and listen for rpm change

 

[BadBrad]

Brad,
As Marv stated check for intake leak by spraying carb. cleaner or WD-40 on "intake" connections at both heads and at carb. If leaking, Idle speed will possibly chance during spraying!
Then run the bike until it starts missing again, then do a "compression test"! Auto parts stores sell compression gauge or tester.
Then do a "Leak Down Test" if all else fails or to make a better determination of location. "Some" auto stores sell these, but most don't. There is a post that described on how-to build your own leak tester somewhere on here.

Do these test in order! Simplest 1st, then to more difficult testing items. I think in your case, you're going to find out more with the compression test than a leak test because you're having a "Intermittent" dead mis! Leak test just tells you the amount of wear by showing the % of leak bye the rings or valves. It's a "constant failure or problem". It also helps in pin pointing in what area the problem is as well.
Sorry Bud, but it sounds like you're in a whole different area than a "leak down test" would show if it runs "fine" one minute and then starts missing the next, and then cycles this scenario again the next time it's started.

Hope this Helps! Good Luck!

dead

Hell No!!! I'm a certified mechanic now! Tear it down, build it up from scratch.......

So.....WD40 to the intake/head connection first? Gotcha:roll::roll:

Thanks guys. I'll keep ya posted. Nothing is ever "normal" with my threads.

 

[BadBrad]

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Believe Me when I say that type of enthusiasm is Great, But it "Won't Last Forever!

:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

dead

I think you're confusing ignorance for enthusiasm. There's nothing I would like more than an "easy fix".

 

[BadBrad]

Brad,
I hope you see this before you tearing anything apart!
While the site was down I had another thought about the described problem of missing after it's warmed up. I know it's gonna sound stupid but....
Were you extra careful when you adjusted the valves, when you put it back together? Sometimes that can be tricky on lifters after they're not pre-loaded anymore! You can compress one without even knowing it if you're not really careful or sure.

What I'm thinking here is: The lifter might be just a little compressed during your initial start up, than as it warms up the lifter pressure builds up as well causing the valve lash to be "Too Tight"! And that would be your rough running and even possibly some backfiring somewhat.

This is possibly what's going on! Hope so, it's an easy fix!:2thumbs:

dead

Hey Dead,
Just getting home and got your reply before I pulled the head, bored the cylinder and changed the rings. I'll go back through the procedure for adjusting the push rods and see what happens. Thanks for keeping me in mind.

With that kind of forethought, we're damn near engaged! Kinda creepy if you ask me, but thanks all the same. :roll::roll::roll:

 

[BadBrad]

Well, before I did anything, I took that badass Dog for a spin to replicate the problem I had last night. Only went 2 miles, but no problems. Didn't I say that Dog might just lick it's wounds and fix itself? Right now I have other obligations, like kids ball games, but I'm sure that Pitbull will "go for the gonads" just as soon I put a little trust in her. Dove season opens tomorrow, so I'll let a Dog lay for now. I have a long weeknend and plan on doing some riding if it's not raining. I won't get too far from the house. With a problem that now seems to be "minor", I just about have to think Dead might be on to something with the "out of adjustment push rods". No tapping today and both cylinders are hitting, but I can feel the exhaust and the front cylinder is much warmer than the rear. Something is still no quite right in my Dog house. Gone to the game. Thanks all for your input today. I've learned all sorts of new things, even if I don't have to tear into my Dog to check them out.