Removing the rear wheel?

Energy One

Dlandbob

Active Member
I am on my IPad and I can't navigate as well as on my PC so I have to ask. I have done a search, looked threw the service manuals that some of you have sent me and I can't find out how to remove my rear wheel. I need to replace my rear rotor and of course Polish my wheel and sprocket while it is off. Can anyone point me in the right direction or if there isn't any post, please tell me how to get this off?

Thanks,

Bobby
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
What year and model?

You might want to replace the rear wheel bearings and (brake pads if needed) as well while it's off the bike.

Here's my thoughts............
Remove the side axle covers.
Remove the first jamming setscrews then the adjuster setscrews on both sides near front of axle.
Loosen and remove the axle nut.

With the bike on the lift and securely strapped, raise rear wheel just off the ground. If using a front wheel chock then loosen the straps as needed when raising bike.

Remove rear axle and safely capture the wheel spacers and the caliper with its mount. NOTE THE SPACER LOCATIONS THEY'RE DIFFERENT.

Remove drive belt from rear rotor.
Raise bike higher off ground to about 4 inches.
Rear wheel should roll out from under fender.
Inspect wiring harness under rear fender for damages.
DON'T PRESS THE REAR BRAKE LEVER WHILE DISSASEMBLED.

You may have a challange re-aligning the rear wheel properly once done without the proper tools.
Adjust the belt drive tension so that you can move the belt about 1 inch up to down near middle at about 3 to 4 pounds of force.
IMO the belt tension spec is way too tight for the dogs and contributes to early rear wheel bearing failures.
 
Last edited:

Tim

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I would mark the centerline of the axle with the frame with a fine sharpie and then count the turns as you back out the adjusting screw for the axle so you can reinstall and have it relatively in the same place for alignment.
:iagree:
 

outdoorsman26

Well-Known Member
So this isn't as easy as the front I take it
once you do it you will see that it is pretty easy!! its just a lil more time consuming!!
check your bearings if they feel ruff or you have never repalced them you prolly should!! the number should be stamped on them!!

if you have problems or you dont get sumthin ask!! thats what we are here for!!
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
Pretty simple Bobby ... a man with your skills should whip through it ..... I like earl's comments about counting the turns... this will get your alignment in the ball park when you re-assemble.

:2thumbs:
"five"
 

erldawg

Guru
once you do it you will see that it is pretty easy!! its just a lil more time consuming!!
check your bearings if they feel ruff or you have never repalced them you prolly should!! the number should be stamped on them!!

if you have problems or you dont get sumthin ask!! thats what we are here for!!
:iagree:Good point I forgot about checking the bearings...
 

Dlandbob

Active Member
With all your guys input, I should make things easier for me. I take forever whenever I work on my Bike, it took me 4 days to change my Exhuast because once I take things apart, I Polish everything I can. It took me 9 days to replace my front rotor but than again, it took 7 days to drill out the old bolt and rethread it plus I had to find out why my bike wouldn't start. My positive wire came off my coil. The big issue was that so many things went out at the same time and none had anything to do with each other. My headlight went out, my speedo went 100% dead, my lights went out on my engine which I put on and my blinkers went out. Eveything was it's own issue, connections came off at different spots. Go figure! Something was telling me to park my bike and look long and hard at, thank God I saw that neck bolt hanging by a thread! I had no choice but to see it, I had my front wheel off to replace my bad rotor, i figured it would be a good time to clean everything if I took my front fender off so it was after I had that off I noticed a bolt with a ton of threads just about to fall off. Phew!!! I must have a Angel watching over me! There was no reason for me to take my fender off other than I am Anal and Polish way too Much! Anyways, thank You all for your info, like always I will listen and take my time doing the work, I don't really need to change it other than I got a matching set to replace the old Big Dog Rotors which now are polished stainless steel and match better vs my rusty old rotors that look bad and were messed up. Funny, I still don't have the hang of using the front brake yet, it's a odd feeling to me but at least it doesn't hop like before. Five Five, I am having a house warming party soon, I hope you can make it, I will let you know when and anyone who is in So Cal that can make if. I also have a quart of oil that someone got at life style cycles when we went to Big Bear, it was in my girls car, I will save it for you, it was 15 bucks, I am sure no boggy but I still have it for you.
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
With all your guys input, I should make things easier for me. I take forever whenever I work on my Bike, it took me 4 days to change my Exhuast because once I take things apart, I Polish everything I can. It took me 9 days to replace my front rotor but than again, it took 7 days to drill out the old bolt and rethread it plus I had to find out why my bike wouldn't start. My positive wire came off my coil. The big issue was that so many things went out at the same time and none had anything to do with each other. My headlight went out, my speedo went 100% dead, my lights went out on my engine which I put on and my blinkers went out. Eveything was it's own issue, connections came off at different spots. Go figure! Something was telling me to park my bike and look long and hard at, thank God I saw that neck bolt hanging by a thread! I had no choice but to see it, I had my front wheel off to replace my bad rotor, i figured it would be a good time to clean everything if I took my front fender off so it was after I had that off I noticed a bolt with a ton of threads just about to fall off. Phew!!! I must have a Angel watching over me! There was no reason for me to take my fender off other than I am Anal and Polish way too Much! Anyways, thank You all for your info, like always I will listen and take my time doing the work, I don't really need to change it other than I got a matching set to replace the old Big Dog Rotors which now are polished stainless steel and match better vs my rusty old rotors that look bad and were messed up. Funny, I still don't have the hang of using the front brake yet, it's a odd feeling to me but at least it doesn't hop like before. Five Five, I am having a house warming party soon, I hope you can make it, I will let you know when and anyone who is in So Cal that can make if. I also have a quart of oil that someone got at life style cycles when we went to Big Bear, it was in my girls car, I will save it for you, it was 15 bucks, I am sure no boggy but I still have it for you.
sounds good Bobby....some of the boys are taking the dogs out for an afternoon run next saturday ....your welcome to come.
 

kmalysa

Active Member
This is out of the 08 service manual. Tells you how to remove the wheel in chapter 5 and chapter 6 tells you how to align it. This should cover all your questions. All the best.


http://tampabdm.com/images/chapter5.pdf
http://tampabdm.com/images/chapter6.pdf
Wow! Now that's a service manual. I bought the '05 Service Manual and it has no detail like that at all( a big disappointment for over 100.00). Does anyone know where I could get a PDF manual like this? I guess I might need to buy one from a newer model, the major components probably are all the same I would think?
 

Dlandbob

Active Member
Five Five, you mentioned to me once about setting up a computer to our bikes, what hardware and software do we need? When my garage is all cleared out I will have a computer setup for my Chopper, I just need to figure out what it takes to connect it. I built a gaming PC, it is all custome, looks awesome, it even matches my Bike and it has the serial connector needed to connect. It was for my Video games a few years ago but I have replaced it and it just sits and looks pretty but since I have it, what can I do with my Bike to make a difference? Also, I don't do many stupid things in my life but when I do it's always big, this time it isn't a buggy but it was stupid on my part, I wanted to adjust my idle up a hair and as my bike was idling I adjusted the accelerator screw instead of the idle screw. I kept trying to make it idle higher and it didn't do anything. I figured out when I was riding that I messed that one up. I have seen on here how to adjust the accelerator screw, is it that easy?
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
Five Five, you mentioned to me once about setting up a computer to our bikes, what hardware and software do we need? When my garage is all cleared out I will have a computer setup for my Chopper, I just need to figure out what it takes to connect it. I built a gaming PC, it is all custome, looks awesome, it even matches my Bike and it has the serial connector needed to connect. It was for my Video games a few years ago but I have replaced it and it just sits and looks pretty but since I have it, what can I do with my Bike to make a difference? Also, I don't do many stupid things in my life but when I do it's always big, this time it isn't a buggy but it was stupid on my part, I wanted to adjust my idle up a hair and as my bike was idling I adjusted the accelerator screw instead of the idle screw. I kept trying to make it idle higher and it didn't do anything. I figured out when I was riding that I messed that one up. I have seen on here how to adjust the accelerator screw, is it that easy?

bobby post a picture of the screw you adjusted
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
This is out of the 08 service manual. Tells you how to remove the wheel in chapter 5 and chapter 6 tells you how to align it. This should cover all your questions. All the best.


http://tampabdm.com/images/chapter5.pdf
http://tampabdm.com/images/chapter6.pdf
Regarding the belt tension in the manual..........Don't do the 3/8" it's too damn tight. I run mine about 3/4" to 1" deflection with moderate force on the finger. Otherwise you'll eat up rear wheel bearings every year.

Deflection: Movement of the top belt surface from a at-rest position to the same surface while under down force of 2-3 lbs.
 
Regarding the belt tension in the manual..........Don't do the 3/8" it's too damn tight. I run mine about 3/4" to 1" deflection with moderate force on the finger. Otherwise you'll eat up rear wheel bearings every year.

Deflection: Movement of the top belt surface from a at-rest position to the same surface while under down force of 2-3 lbs.
I agree....I have about 1" deflection in mine. No problems
 

Mr.D

Member
Remember to remove the belt guard, the back side of the bolts will scratch your wheel. I place the Axel in the lathe and put a center dimple in both ends for reference point.
For centering the wheel, Make yourself HD. custom tool.
Cut a straight piece of coat hanger about 18" long bend a 90 degree "L" at one end about 1/4 " long . Put a zip tie tight around the wire. Now hook the "L" in the swing arm pivot and slide the ziptie to meet the center of the axel. now do the same on the other side and compare your lenth side to side
Rock on !!
 
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