Rebuilt the forks

Energy One

Twisted

Well-Known Member
Quick question, just added some oil, 10 ozs in each leg, do the top chrome fork caps on top of the triple trees have a torque value, didn't see it in the manual. Or do they just get cranked down?
 

Twisted

Well-Known Member
Well the saga continues. Added the oil, lowered the bike down and couldn't get the jack out, WTF. After some investigating figured out the forks are shorter, the fork tubed got direct shipped and they sent me the wrong size and the dumb ass that I am didn't notice. The box said 10" over but apparently they were 4"s too short, they put the wrong tubes in the right box. So last night I had to take it all apart again so I can ship them back and this time it didn't go as smooth. Did the same method as before and every time I slammed them down they got stuck, finally I got the left side and realized that the lower bushing was trying to sneak under the upper bushing. The right side really kicked my ass, worked on it for a couple hours, even removed the seal, tried heat and cooling the bushing, some pb blaster, and nothing. They were getting stuck so bad that I had to beat it back up with a rubber mallet. In the end I remembered JWScarabs post about the stuck seals and went back to that, went to Lowes for some PVC pipe and a long bolt. Made up a similar tool and used an impact gun on it and it finally came apart. The bushing is still in the lower leg but it came up a little so theres a gap under it before it hits the shoulder so I think I'll be able to get it out by making a relief cut down the middle. So again a big shout out for JWScarab for his idea, and also one to Curtis for the help dealing with this.

Now I'm down and out till I get the right parts.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Well that just sucks the big one:oldrant:
That does suck ...now I look at the pic and see it is shorter sucks!!! don't forget to use new fork seals again.

I'm wondering what is causing this bushing issue. The only thing you can do as an installer to prevent an error is driving the seal too far. Once its past the recessed notches where the clip goes you are done.


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Twisted

Well-Known Member
That does suck ...now I look at the pic and see it is shorter sucks!!! don't forget to use new fork seals again.

I'm wondering what is causing this bushing issue. The only thing you can do as an installer to prevent an error is driving the seal too far. Once its past the recessed notches where the clip goes you are done.


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That's exactly what I did, as soon as I could get the clip in, I stopped. Don't know.

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Twisted

Well-Known Member
Were both bushings new? Replaced the copper one and the aluminum one?

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Yeah got a whole new kit, everything was new. The new upper bushing didn't seem as tight to the tubes as the old one, maybe that's why it let the lower bushing sneak under it.

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Twisted

Well-Known Member
This is what started to happen on the left side then eventually it popped. You can see how the lower was going under the upper.


And this is the upper bushing stuck in the right leg. You can see how there's a gap between the bushing and the fork tube, I'm guessing this should have been tighter against the tube. Also noticed once they were together there was some wiggle in the lower leg, which would make scene seeing that gap.



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Twisted

Well-Known Member
Well new fork assemblies, bushings and seals are on the way. Even though being sent the wrong size was out of his control cause they shipped direct, Curtis as always stepped up, helped me out and is getting me everything to get the bike going again. Hats off to him for being a great help to us all !!! Also recomended a little anti seize on the outside of the upper bearing so this won't happen again!

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JWScarab

Active Member
Hey Twisted, I feel your pain! My fork seals ended up being quite an endever for me too. But, it is great to learn and I think if I have to do it again, I would tackle it myself again. I learned a LOT. Using never seize is a great idea! I believe the separation tool is great for a no damage separation. Then scoring the outer bushing to get it to collapse and get out - should work! Kudos to you for the DIY !!!
 

Twisted

Well-Known Member
Well the new parts came in today and happy to say, the bike is back together. Took it for a test ride and with the new fork tube assemblies, it rides alot better than it did, must be the new springs, bushings, and the fact that it now has the correct amount of oil. I was able to get the stuck bushing out by cutting though 90% of it with a fine tooth reciprocating saw blade by hand, then I was able to fold it over and pull it out. Glad to see her off the jack and ready to ride. Thanks for all the help and ideas and a huge thanks to KaptainAmerika for getting everything straightened out, he went above and beyond as usual.

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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Well the new parts came in today and happy to say, the bike is back together. Took it for a test ride and with the new fork tube assemblies, it rides alot better than it did, must be the new springs, bushings, and the fact that it now has the correct amount of oil. I was able to get the stuck bushing out by cutting though 90% of it with a fine tooth reciprocating saw blade by hand, then I was able to fold it over and pull it out. Glad to see her off the jack and ready to ride. Thanks for all the help and ideas and a huge thanks to KaptainAmerika for getting everything straightened out, he went above and beyond as usual.

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You put new springs in too?

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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Instead of just new tubes, I ordered complete assemblies, which have new springs and dampers, basically they were ready to go into the lowers with new bushings and seals.

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Oh interesting. How many miles on the bike?

Do you know what recommended spring/damper replacement mileage is?

I remember someone went with a progressive spring before and liked the ride better.

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