EHC replacement

Energy One

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
...Just an other story: I got my Ridgeback 3 days ago :) I already kicked off the original EHC (It was not very complicated as the screws were hanging at the holder and the box was separated alreday from the screws) and installed my EHC. Nice bike and more comfortable to ride compare to my other old iron. The only challenge are still curves with the 300er wheel but I get it better from day to day.

All the best!
Axel
Glad to hear it. Yes it takes awhile to get the curves down. :D I should have mine back on the road this weekend.
 

Axel

Active Member
Hi Kevin,

Yes, you are right :) After about 200 miles within the last week there is no need anymore for me to carry the bike in a curve ;-)

The new EHC works fine in my bike as well. I changed the software a bit in order that the start button is locked now by default when it is pressed once and the head light is off when switching on the ignition switch. This makes more sense for me. I attach the new manual.

All the best!
Axel
 

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Ticey

Member
...Just an other story: I got my Ridgeback 3 days ago :) I already kicked off the original EHC (It was not very complicated as the screws were hanging at the holder and the box was separated already from the screws) and installed my EHC. Nice bike and more comfortable to ride compare to my other old iron. The only challenge are still curves with the 300er wheel but I get it better from day to day. A photo will follow after cleaning. It was a bit raining today..

All the best!
Axel
Sweet, Another Ridgeback! Congrats Axel!!
 

Axel

Active Member
Hm, in the meanwhile I got a few returns of failed EHC. Some EHC work fine in a bike and the same EHC make trouble in an other bike. I will need to take more care about correct copper thickness and exact fuse dimensions. I think there were copper tracks burned in the EHC due to short circuits in the harness or somewhere else in the bike cause the high side switches are too big for the copper tracks. I just added a 20 Ampere fuse for the whole EHC and a 9 Ampere fuse in the schematic and will test an EHC with short circuits at every output next week when my new tester is ready. I attach the new schematic.

EHC.png

However I feel I have not spend enough attention to Murphy´s law...

By the way, does anybody know where it is possible to get the 2009 d-sub connectors? I have ask 2 manufacturs here but they don´t know these connectors.

All the best!
Axel
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Hm, in the meanwhile I got a few returns of failed EHC. Some EHC work fine in a bike and the same EHC make trouble in an other bike. I will need to take more care about correct copper thickness and exact fuse dimensions. I think there were copper tracks burned in the EHC due to short circuits in the harness or somewhere else in the bike cause the high side switches are too big for the copper tracks. I just added a 20 Ampere fuse for the whole EHC and a 9 Ampere fuse in the schematic and will test an EHC with short circuits at every output next week when my new tester is ready. I attach the new schematic.

View attachment 33335

However I feel I have not spend enough attention to Murphy´s law...

By the way, does anybody know where it is possible to get the 2009 d-sub connectors? I have ask 2 manufacturs here but they don´t know these connectors.

All the best!
Axel
Hi Axle,

I think you are coming to the same conclusion as what the factory kept saying was that most of the time the EHC was at fault when most likely the root cause was elsewhere. I think their failure rate was quite low as well.
 

Axel

Active Member
Hi Eric,

Yes, I think you are right. However, it would be not so bad when the EHC will survive in every situation, no matter if there is a short circuit, overvoltages, snow, rain or something else present. I hope I can take care of all situations...

All the best!
Axel
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Hi Eric,

Yes, I think you are right. However, it would be not so bad when the EHC will survive in every situation, no matter if there is a short circuit, overvoltages, snow, rain or something else present. I hope I can take care of all situations...

All the best!
Axel
That would be superior. But some problems are probably due to a harness that gets fixed during most rewire.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 

gearheadjeff

New Member
Hi Jwooky,

Thanks, It´s alredy not necessary to measure the resistance. I had seen that the EFI ignition coil is feeded direct from a 25 Ampere fuse and a relay. So, there is no load on the EHC. I have looked to EFI schematic several times but have always overseen the relay. Bigger eyeglasses ???

By the way, I have potted a few EHC today. I still need a bit experience with the quantity of the potting compound but I think it will work. It still looks a bit raw due to the potting material on parts of the metal sheet.

View attachment 32706

I just have put one EHC in a few socks and have put it in our washing machine for a small "hardcore test". (My wife was not very happy...). I´ll come back to you with the result tomorrow.

Do you know this pic ? :) :) :)

View attachment 32707

All the best!
Axel
Axel, u seem like the man with the knowledge! My 05 big dog lost all electrical power and shut down last sunday night on my way to work. Totally dead, new battery had no voltage. Figuring my battery shorted out, i bought a new one the next day. The digital speedo lights up, but starts flashing, as in a bad ground. All woring and connections are fine, and pretty sure its the ehc. I admit i get overwhelmed reading all the posts. Is there a less expensive alternative than wiring up a wire plus system? Im a mechanic, but dont have 3-500 bucks for an aftermarket harness kit. If it comes down to it, ill spend the money, as long as everything works. Im 60, guess i should be riding a touring bike instead of a chopper! Whats the best way to go here?
 

Axel

Active Member
Hi Jeff,

Hm, it´s a bit difficult to find out the problem from the far. A defect battery could have an higher impedance what follow in low load to the voltage regulator. This could result in low energy - high voltage spikes from the ignition coils or the alternator to the EHC when switching off what might destroy the EHC. I had nearly similar issues with my EHC in combination with weak batteries and decided to put overvoltage diodes in the last EHC version what will shorten small low energy - high voltage spikes against ground. However it might be not a perfect protection for every situation yet and I still have some EHC out for testing.

By the way, I found the right connector for the 2009 + EHC and got an offer from the local Positronic dealer. I attach the drawing of the mixed signal con. The local dealer want to charge more than 50,- Euro (!) per connector, their minimum order is 25 pcs and the manufacturing time is 8 - 10 weeks... The 50 pin con. price is a bit "cheaper". So, I´ll ask the factory direct and think about a 2009 + version again in a few months when I saved a bit money. The schematic is almost the same what is in the other EHC anyway.

All the best!
Axel
 

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Ozzie

New Member
Hey Guys, I've got a 2003 Canine 107...Bought the Thunderheart EHC replacement and have gone through the process 30 + hrs., never claimed to be an electrical specialist....anyway I got all lights and horn to work, everything, but when I press the starter the black rectangle box in the new EHC unit just clicks. I've done everything Thunderheart has said to do...Battery is good, ignition module appears good, light comes on for a couple seconds then off...Any thoughts????
 

chubs

Guru
Hey Guys, I've got a 2003 Canine 107...Bought the Thunderheart EHC replacement and have gone through the process 30 + hrs., never claimed to be an electrical specialist....anyway I got all lights and horn to work, everything, but when I press the starter the black rectangle box in the new EHC unit just clicks. I've done everything Thunderheart has said to do...Battery is good, ignition module appears good, light comes on for a couple seconds then off...Any thoughts????
Check for 12 volts at the green wire that's plugged into the starter solenoid when you push the start button. Sounds like the start relay is energizing when ya push the start button, but not sending power to the solenoid?
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Well, no genius here, but if the relay(?) clicks, battery for sure has enough juice (did you check how much voltage drops on battery when you push start), it may be that there is a loose cable on starter/solenoid or loose ground... Which is kind of weird if starter worked OK before the new unit and you didn't touch anything but EHC unit.
 

Ozzie

New Member
Check for 12 volts at the green wire that's plugged into the starter solenoid when you push the start button. Sounds like the start relay is energizing when ya push the start button, but not sending power to the solenoid?
Thanks, I will test that tonight.
 

Ozzie

New Member
Well, no genius here, but if the relay(?) clicks, battery for sure has enough juice (did you check how much voltage drops on battery when you push start), it may be that there is a loose cable on starter/solenoid or loose ground... Which is kind of weird if starter worked OK before the new unit and you didn't touch anything but EHC unit.
I'll check it. The only issue with the starter before rewire was every now and then it would kick out when trying to start but hit it again and it would engage and start the bike...never actually failed though.
 

chubs

Guru
I'll check it. The only issue with the starter before rewire was every now and then it would kick out when trying to start but hit it again and it would engage and start the bike...never actually failed though.
About a year ago, my pit bull decided it didn't want to crank once in a while. I found the female connector on the green solenoid wire was loose enough to lose contact occasionally. I replaced the connector and crimped it down a little so as to make it really tight, and haven't had any problems with it since. One other thing to check, the contacts inside the solenoid may be cruddy from arcing and not making good contact. Easy enough to check, just pull the 3 screws outta the end cap, and look inside. (be careful if you pull the plunger out, that you don't arc it to ground (if ya didn't unhook the battery cable) Good luck getting back on the road :old2::old2:
 

Ozzie

New Member
About a year ago, my pit bull decided it didn't want to crank once in a while. I found the female connector on the green solenoid wire was loose enough to lose contact occasionally. I replaced the connector and crimped it down a little so as to make it really tight, and haven't had any problems with it since. One other thing to check, the contacts inside the solenoid may be cruddy from arcing and not making good contact. Easy enough to check, just pull the 3 screws outta the end cap, and look inside. (be careful if you pull the plunger out, that you don't arc it to ground (if ya didn't unhook the battery cable) Good luck getting back on the road :old2::old2:
Thanks Chubs, I'll check that.
 
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