CURDOG
Active Member
Ram, if it's still under warranty why not let the dealer replace it and then you can adjust it properly if they don't. My cable broke with @ 4000 miles on my '06 Mastiff and the dealer replaced it.
How to adjust your clutch (05 and newer)
- Thread starter tacoloco
- Start date
- Status
surferdude
dry docked
When I adjust the pushrod screw in until it stops and back off 1/4 turn the clutch does not engage and the clutch lever is really hard to pull ... what am I doing wrong? ... how tight should the pushrod be? I'm following the instructions but it doesnt' seem to work for me ... help It seems that the clutch is not engaging all the way. Is the 05's adjustment different? I bearly got the bike back into the garage ... just rode about 20 feet and back into the garage to re-adjust but nothing yet seems to work ... I've adjusted it loose ... tight ... still hard to get it into neutral unless I turn it off and then it pops into neutral real easy. Could something come loose in the clutch housing?
Last edited:
lee
Well-Known Member
No the 05's are not different - when you turn the pushrod screw in do not do it until it stops i.e. do not force it til it won't go any more - just do it until you first feel the resistance - then back it out. Also make sure you leave about 1/8" free play in the cable.
Also with the 05's many of them had a pushrod which was too thick - you may need to get a replacement - Nelson (WB Cycles) will sort you out - costs about $35 I believe.
Also with the 05's many of them had a pushrod which was too thick - you may need to get a replacement - Nelson (WB Cycles) will sort you out - costs about $35 I believe.
surferdude
dry docked
Ok ... This is what I've done.
--- loosen the cable
--- adjusted the pushrod until I feel resistence
--- back off 1/4 turn
--- tighten the nut on the pushrod
--- taken the slack out of the cable ... not to tight
And I can barely get the bike rolling in 1st gear ... it can almost stay still in 1st with the clutch lever released.
Seems that I need to make some other adjustment ... any suggestions beside take it to a shop? 
--- loosen the cable
--- adjusted the pushrod until I feel resistence
--- back off 1/4 turn
--- tighten the nut on the pushrod
--- taken the slack out of the cable ... not to tight
And I can barely get the bike rolling in 1st gear ... it can almost stay still in 1st with the clutch lever released.
Seems that I need to make some other adjustment ... any suggestions beside take it to a shop?
Last edited:
surferdude
dry docked
Keeping the 05
:2thumbs: :up:
Lee ... thank you!!!! I do have a question ... why doesn't the adjustment work as described at the beginning of the thread? And what is the difference of the new pushrod vs. original? And what exactly does the pushrod do? And is there a way to refine the adustment since you can't see what's being adjusted? Can you take the cover off to see the pushrod? Ok a lot of questions I didn't have two days ago. Thank you again ... I thought I would have to get a new 08 Bigdog Ridgeback ... oh well next time
:2thumbs: :up:
surferdude, your adjustment should work just like the first topic.
I would first make sure the rod is going all the way through the tranny and seating properly. Grease the rod real good, when you insert it most of the grease will be squeezed off by the seal so I shoot extra grease inside before inserting the rod (from inside the cover not outside).
As for how it works, the ball and ramp assembly inside the cover push the rod in and out about an 1/8th of and inch when you pull the lever. This pushs the rod through the tranny to the otherside and seperates the clutch and pressure plate pack.
When you do your adjustments all you are doing is determining how much push you will get on the other end. It's a simple adjustment so experiment with it but the guidelines above should work first time.
The adjustment on the downtube is only for the cable slack itself.
Pulling the cover off is easy and if you do pull it ensure there is plenty of grease inside the ball and ramp assembly but don't move anything around in there if you don't have a sense of how it goes back together.
It's all in the manual.
Good luck,
Ray
I would first make sure the rod is going all the way through the tranny and seating properly. Grease the rod real good, when you insert it most of the grease will be squeezed off by the seal so I shoot extra grease inside before inserting the rod (from inside the cover not outside).
As for how it works, the ball and ramp assembly inside the cover push the rod in and out about an 1/8th of and inch when you pull the lever. This pushs the rod through the tranny to the otherside and seperates the clutch and pressure plate pack.
When you do your adjustments all you are doing is determining how much push you will get on the other end. It's a simple adjustment so experiment with it but the guidelines above should work first time.
The adjustment on the downtube is only for the cable slack itself.
Pulling the cover off is easy and if you do pull it ensure there is plenty of grease inside the ball and ramp assembly but don't move anything around in there if you don't have a sense of how it goes back together.
It's all in the manual.
Good luck,
Ray
surferdude
dry docked
Hi Raywood ... I did the adjustment just like the thread said in the beginning ... I re-checked and re-checked and it just would not engage ... the bike bearly moved ... I backed the pushrod 2 full turns like Lee said and the clutch totally engages ... that's why I'm a bit cornfused??? I understand what you are saying and that makes it more cornfusing that it doesn't work ... something else is out of adjustment. Would taking the clutch cover off make it easier to see what the pushrod is doing? And when replacing the pushrod can you just unscrew it and screw in the new one?
Thanks ... :2thumbs:
Thanks ...
:2thumbs:
Sounds like your problem is you are backing off the pushrod two full turns.
Then manual states to back it off 1/4", that's only one quarter of an inch.
Here are some pics of the setup that I've posted on here before. Re do it using the 1/4" adjustment and see what you get.
Good luck,
Ray
Then manual states to back it off 1/4", that's only one quarter of an inch.
Here are some pics of the setup that I've posted on here before. Re do it using the 1/4" adjustment and see what you get.
Good luck,
Ray
lee
Well-Known Member
as I said before you need a new pushrod - you have the exact same thing I had - I needed about 2 complete turns out with my old pushrod otherwise the clutch would not engage but when I put my new one in it was 1/4 turn without adjusting anything else. Some of the 05 pushrods were too thick and get smoothed out - you will see what I mean when you compare it with your new one.
surferdude
dry docked
If you have adjusted the rod, then you can remove it... Simply keep spinning it out and then it will just come out.
And as said above by Ray... the ball ramp assembly is what takes the clutch cable pull and pushes the rod out on the primary side. On your stock setup it pushes against the back of the clutch diaphram (a plate that simulates springs like my new banditt has) This releases the tension that hold the clutch plates together. Which "disconnects" the power from primary to the tranny input shaft.
The center hole is where the clutch rod comes thru
Then wth my setup there is a "tip" on it
Then the end plate with springs that push the plates together till your clutch rod pushes out on the plate releasing the clutch plates as I said above
EDIT:
I found pics of my old stock setup. I think your 2005 will be the same.
Assembled
Under the clutch diaphram
The pushrod is in the center
And as said above by Ray... the ball ramp assembly is what takes the clutch cable pull and pushes the rod out on the primary side. On your stock setup it pushes against the back of the clutch diaphram (a plate that simulates springs like my new banditt has) This releases the tension that hold the clutch plates together. Which "disconnects" the power from primary to the tranny input shaft.
The center hole is where the clutch rod comes thru
Then wth my setup there is a "tip" on it
Then the end plate with springs that push the plates together till your clutch rod pushes out on the plate releasing the clutch plates as I said above
EDIT:
I found pics of my old stock setup. I think your 2005 will be the same.
Assembled
Under the clutch diaphram
The pushrod is in the center
Last edited:
surferdude
dry docked
Hi GasMan .... appreciate the photos ... from what I can see I can just take the adjusting cover off like I've been doing and loosen the nut and pull out the pushrod. If I do that I'm not going to hear any noise like I'm at the casino at the 5 cent slots am I? What kind of pink grease should I be using when I replace the pushrod? And can you explain why Lee and I had to back off the pushrod 2 1/4 turns for the clutch to engage. Is it that worn out that I need to do that? Thanks for the info ... I can sleep tonight ... thanks again 
:up:
:up:
lee
Well-Known Member
surferdude - I can't explain to you the mechanics of why the worn pushrod causes this but it does - at least it did with mine and you have the exact same symptoms. Call nelson and he'll sort you out. And yes, just unscrew it as you have been doing and pull it out and then just push the new one in, with the grease. Nothing will fall apart or collapse. I think Gas uses Mobil 1 grease - make sure you put plenty in there.
surferdude
dry docked
lee
Well-Known Member
no - the throw out bearing is part of the clutch assembly itself
lee
Well-Known Member
:2thumbs:Thanks Lee & Gas Man ... I gave Nelson a call yesterday but he hasn't returned my call yet ... I will definitely get a new pushrod and grease ... you all have been a great help ... appreciate a whole lot ... Thanks again :up:
- Status