EHC replacement

Axel

Active Member
Hi Eric and Kurt,

I made the tests with the 6 Ampere internal fuse and put it in the new EHC. I think that there could be no need anymore for a 20 ampere inline fuse, but as long as we haven´t tested the ehc outside of the normal functions I suggest to use the additional inline fuse. In my workshop is everything fine and the EHC is resistant against short circuits of all the separate outputs but a bike is somehow different to my workshop and I don´t want to promise something only as result of workshop tests. However, I don´t have the 20 Ampere inline fuse in my bike.

About 11 volt and lower: This is no problem for the box. The microcontroller will self reset somewhere below 5 Volt and will start again to work if the voltage is ok. The only problem could be the starter solenoid. The internal highside switches switch off below 5,5 Volt. So, a low battery might have enough power that the solenoid will work when you push the start button but the voltage will fall when the starter get his power, what result that the highside switch will switch off below 5,5 Volt. This result that the battery voltage increase and the internal switch will switch on again. This effect could happen 10 - 20 times per second, what might burn your starter solenoid. I hope you understand my confused describtion :)

About Eric Kings EHC: I don´t know yet what happen. I think he got one of the EHC without the high voltage supression diode what prevent the EHC against inductances from the starter or the ignition coil if the battery have a higher impedance when it is not full charged or weak. I implement this diodes since June and he got his box on June 5. Unfortunaly I had potted the boxes in black colored potting compound what make an identification of problems difficult.

However I made some changes within the last 3 months what affect bigger copper tracks and 2 (Carb) or 3 (EFI) internal self resettable fuses as well as the implemention of the diode and a better power distribution from the highside switches to the outputs. Don´t worry, I´ll take care for a replacement if your box will fail. There are more than 150 EHC out already what work without problems. The most problems (...not all) in the EHC result from a problem in the harness or somewhere else in the bike. I´ll take care of it but I only can change something when a problem is happen and I know the problem. Only a defect EHC will help to improve the product and not the 150 EHC what work fine. I don´t promise that the EHC is resistant now against every issue in the harness or bike but I´ll work on it ;-)

All the best!
Axel
 

Kobi

Member
:old2:Very informative!! I could not be happier with my Axel EHC. I have not added the 20 amp fuse to date. My harness is nice and I hate to cut into it. Thumbs up Axel!!
 

BWG56

Guru
At any point something could go tits up and wipe it out, for the 10 minutes it takes to install, you have to ask yourself, are you feeling lucky Punks:oldhardlaugh:
 

Kobi

Member
I was looking into a 20 amp Breaker to add instead of a fuse. No wires cut, just add a jumper wire. If it trips, it resets. No extra fuses to carry. They make one that has a manual rest too. Thoughts??
 

Axel

Active Member
Looks nice and the low price is great. However, the breaker usually need time until they trip, depending of the short circuit current and ambience temperature. Maybe a smaller value might work as well? Do you have a datasheet of this part?

All the best!
Axel
 
The reason Big Dog went away from the big dangling fuse was because of its size and bulkyness.
People get in there and start messing around, they cut zip ties and don't put them back etc and then the large wires from the fuse get into a kinked position and start rubbing and boom they short out. With the breaker they could, to a degree, control some of that better.
If you put fuses in the best thing to do is put in a mini fuse block and keep everything run clean and zip tied away properly.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
The reason Big Dog went away from the big dangling fuse was because of its size and bulkyness.
People get in there and start messing around, they cut zip ties and don't put them back etc and then the large wires from the fuse get into a kinked position and start rubbing and boom they short out. With the breaker they could, to a degree, control some of that better.
If you put fuses in the best thing to do is put in a mini fuse block and keep everything run clean and zip tied away properly.
You're right but with a breaker you can find the problem and ride home.... When you sent me the LED headlight I went through 4 boxes of fuses and then put in a breaker. It took awhile to find the problem but no one carries 4 boxes of fuses...
 

dapfunk

Member
Well mine finally died (10 yrs go figure)... So make it 151 out there... just put mine in today, programmed it and ready to fire up and ride in the morning.

Super easy install (and my wiring is odd), took maybe an hour and a half, nothing harder than drilling 1 hole in the battery bucket. Works great on the lift. Too late to rumble the neighborhood tonight. Fire it up first thing and test ride.

Thanks Axel for the cool EHC, and another shout out to Curtis at Wild Steed for the super fast service.
 
Last edited:

Axel

Active Member
. I just made one change at the schematic in my post from August 19: I increased the the 1,1 Ampere fuse value for the ignition, rear light and tacho power to 1,6 Ampere. One of my friends was at the Eurpopean Bike Week in Austria last week and they had ride about 200 km every day in the mountains with 32 degree ambience temperature. His bike had sometimes ignition and tacho fails when riding up the mountains with high engine speed. His friend told him that the rear light was off as well in the moment when the ignition failed. This issue was happen sometimes when the engine speed was high and the bike speed was low at these high temperatures. It was not happen with lower engine speed and riding down. So, the 1,1 Ampere fuse trips sometimes when high temperatures are present and in the moment when the bike need much power at lower speeds when riding upward. I attach the actual schema. You´ll find the 1,6 Ampere fuse at the right side:

schema.png

So, it improves step by step :boing:

However, my EHC with the 1,1 Ampere fuse works fine in my Ridgeback and I´ll not change it, cause we have no mountains in my area...

I hope I don´t disturb you with all the changes and improvenemts. My comments should not be understand as a kind of advertisement. I´m just an engineer and not an ad guy. This forum is a fantastic place and I´m happy to get useful infos from you and write down everything what help to improve something.

All the best!
Axel
 

Axel

Active Member
Hi,

just a small update: I learned from a few customers within the last weeks that they were confused due to 3 different EHC models and they were not sure what model they need. So, I changed my mind and will produce only one model for the 2005 - 2008 BD. However, the only difference between the both models is the additional fuse for the constant power to the EFI. I made a current measurement 2 weeks ago at an EFI bike and it just need about 0,5 - 0,8 Ampere more compare to the carb bike. So, I changed the main fuse back to 7 Ampere and add a 1,1 Ampere fuse for the constant power to the EFI in all models. So, in the future we have the EHC4C and the EHC58. It is a small technical compromise cause a 6 Ampere fuse will do the job in the carb version as well. The potting material without black paint is fine to recognize problems. You can see one example issue on the pic:

P9270054.jpg

On the right lower edge is the second lowest resistor to the led broken what follows that the led for the right indicator is not glowing what makes the box not usuable for sale anymore. Even the solder flux liquid right beside in the middle of the controller is visible ( I usually fix the controller with one solder point before putting the boards in the wave solder machine ) A black paint would not help to identify these things. So, as side effect it forces me to manufacture the boards as clean as possible ;-)

All the best!
Axel
 

Relic

Active Member
Been awhile since I've been on the forum. I guess there's a lot of truth in the fact that most of us don't log-on until we have issues.

Been having electrical gremlins on the wife's 05 Chopper and ran all the normal stuff (connections, voltage etc). The bike would always start and run but showed signs of low voltage (flashers going off and speedo re-setting etc). The EHC never showed abnormal fault lights and eventually went totally dark (nothing lit up not even power light etc but bike would still start and run).

I was going with RIP this winter but went with Axel's EHC. Just put it in and bike acts normal (bike fired right up and everything works). It's a little too cold to test ride today (or I'm too old) but just wanted to let everyone know there's another one out there. Installation was simple (took maybe 30-45 minutes) and that included adding the fuse in the power line.

I'll give an up-date after some miles.

Thanks to Curtis for fast shipping and his in-put. Also thanks to Axel for his work on the EHC.

I guess time and miles will give the final verdict.

Best, Relic.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Been awhile since I've been on the forum. I guess there's a lot of truth in the fact that most of us don't log-on until we have issues.

Been having electrical gremlins on the wife's 05 Chopper and ran all the normal stuff (connections, voltage etc). The bike would always start and run but showed signs of low voltage (flashers going off and speedo re-setting etc). The EHC never showed abnormal fault lights and eventually went totally dark (nothing lit up not even power light etc but bike would still start and run).

I was going with RIP this winter but went with Axel's EHC. Just put it in and bike acts normal (bike fired right up and everything works). It's a little too cold to test ride today (or I'm too old) but just wanted to let everyone know there's another one out there. Installation was simple (took maybe 30-45 minutes) and that included adding the fuse in the power line.

I'll give an up-date after some miles.

Thanks to Curtis for fast shipping and his in-put. Also thanks to Axel for his work on the EHC.

I guess time and miles will give the final verdict.

Best, Relic.
Glad to hear the good news.
 
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