RIP Question

awg

Guru
I received this 06 Mastiff non running. It has the RIP kit installed. It wasn't getting power to the ignition module. So after pulling off the gas tank to check all the connections, which was a pain in the ass, I tried a new PCB switch, a new ignition switch, which I had as spares. Nothing fixed it. So I gave up and started fixing the tag light. The wires were broke off. All this time I made sure the two wires from the tag light weren't touching each other. So put together the wires for the light. Turned the key on to make sure the tag light worked. Well the ignition module also worked. Thought it was fixed. I have started the bike up on and off for the last couple of days. Well today I'm back to the same problem. Is there a relay or something? The 40 amp fuse is good. I have no idea what could be going on. Hoping someone else on here may of had the same problem, or at least give me an idea I may of overlooked.
 

JB105

Member
Sounds like another short someplace especially that ignition light comes on and goes out. Keep unplugging wires one at a time until you have constant ignition light.
 

bdm7250

Guru
Supporting Member
I received this 06 Mastiff non running. It has the RIP kit installed. It wasn't getting power to the ignition module. So after pulling off the gas tank to check all the connections, which was a pain in the ass, I tried a new PCB switch, a new ignition switch, which I had as spares. Nothing fixed it. So I gave up and started fixing the tag light. The wires were broke off. All this time I made sure the two wires from the tag light weren't touching each other. So put together the wires for the light. Turned the key on to make sure the tag light worked. Well the ignition module also worked. Thought it was fixed. I have started the bike up on and off for the last couple of days. Well today I'm back to the same problem. Is there a relay or something? The 40 amp fuse is good. I have no idea what could be going on. Hoping someone else on here may of had the same problem, or at least give me an idea I may of overlooked.
Personally I would yank it out, chuck it and replace with an ESC.. but that's just me.. :2cents:
 
I received this 06 Mastiff non running. It has the RIP kit installed. It wasn't getting power to the ignition module. So after pulling off the gas tank to check all the connections, which was a pain in the ass, I tried a new PCB switch, a new ignition switch, which I had as spares. Nothing fixed it. So I gave up and started fixing the tag light. The wires were broke off. All this time I made sure the two wires from the tag light weren't touching each other. So put together the wires for the light. Turned the key on to make sure the tag light worked. Well the ignition module also worked. Thought it was fixed. I have started the bike up on and off for the last couple of days. Well today I'm back to the same problem. Is there a relay or something? The 40 amp fuse is good. I have no idea what could be going on. Hoping someone else on here may of had the same problem, or at least give me an idea I may of overlooked.
Have you tried powering the module by itself with direct 12 volts.
It could just be a bad ignition module.
 
Disconnect the Ignition modules harnesses from the main harness.
Use a couple of probes to draw power from your battery and probe the black and red wire of the ignition modules power harness. If the module powers up and stays powered up then you know you have a short in the system that is causing the modules MOSFET to trip and cut the power. If it switches itself off then you know you have a bad module.
 
Just be careful and don't ground it out when probing. We use short test connectors here but if your a diy you make do with what you have.
 

awg

Guru
I figured that may happen since the area to probe is small. So what I did is I disconnected the three JST connectors going to the module. I used my test light to see if I'm even getting power. Nothing! Checked all three connectors just for the hell of it. Everything else works. Lights, turn signals, ect. Any ideas?
 

awg

Guru
I figured that may happen since the area to probe is small. So what I did is I disconnected the three JST connectors going to the module. I used my test light to see if I'm even getting power. Nothing! Checked all three connectors just for the hell of it. Everything else works. Lights, turn signals, ect. Any ideas?
When you turn the key on and then press the run button, is the power going straight to the module?
 
When you turn the key on and then press the run button, is the power going straight to the module?
Yes, the run button sends signal to the EHC micro-controller to power up the ignition module. The ignition module then powers up the coil and the crank sensor. I am speaking strictly in terms of a stock setup.
Did you have the light connected so the moment you powered up you could see if there was power initially and then the test light goes out or you just checked for power to the module after you turned the key on and pressed run? That's why I suggested powering up the module individually as you cut through things and kill a couple of birds with one stone.
 

awg

Guru
No. I disconnected the JST connections first, then turned the key on, then checked with the test light. The pins are so small that I didn't want to take the chance of trying to touch the right pin. If power goes through the new micro controller first the the ignition module, possible the controller is bad or shorted? I sure hope not. Let's assume the start button and all connectors are working. What else could be checked?
 
Better safe than sorry for sure.
I would have to assume since the behavior before was the module would power up then go dead and your showing no voltage after a pause between pressing the run button and testing with your light, after having removed the ignition module from the circuit, that the power is being terminated by the Thunderheart module. My experience with the Thunderheart module, and it is minimal I admit, has been that when there is a short it tends to just not function at all to protect itself. In your case though it sounds like it is only killing the one circuit unless I missed something.
You can contact Thunderheart and they will receive the unit and test it for you for a nominal fee. That would rule that in or out of the picture for you.
 

awg

Guru
Thanks Curtis for taking the time and helping me out. Not sure what I'm going to do now. I'll regroup and start again.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Also, what you don't know since you bought it installed is if it's an early Gen1 or not. The early gen1 didn't have the momentary switches working therefore your high /low and RUN/Off turn into one switch. Meaning you hit RUN to cycle both off and run, you end up just leaving it in run and using the key to turn off. Otherwise you can't tell if your turning it on or off
It only remembers the last position. The bottom button is the only one that functions.

Does your HIGH/LOW beam switches work like stock? That will tell you, or if you just hit LOW beam to cycle through HIGH/LOW?

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

awg

Guru
Hi Eric. The high/low works like stock. When the module did power up the, if I'm not mistasken, it to worked like stock. I remember cycling it on and off to make sure it worked. So I don't know.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Hi Eric. The high/low works like stock. When the module did power up the, if I'm not mistasken, it to worked like stock. I remember cycling it on and off to make sure it worked. So I don't know.
If high/low works like stock that's a newer RIP. So you're still stuck, just wanted to mention

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