RIP Question
- Thread starter awg
- Start date
roadie1389
Well-Known Member
The little secondary box if grey with 8 wires it is GenII, Black with 6 wires (I believe it is 6) is GenI.
awg
Guru
It's gray with 8 wires. So here is my plan of attack. From what I know of this system, they use the existing wiring harness up front. That connector gets plugged into the new one. To me I should have power down to the new harness. I am going to disconnect that piece (see pic) and use a test light to check for power from the run/start switch. Since this unit was installed from the dealer, I have no diagrams of how power is fed through. So my question is which pin should I check for power from the run/start switch? If it shows no power, then I guess it's time to check upstream.
Oh that is a genII unit it's got the EHC connector, somehow I missed that earlier. Either way it doesn't matter now.
Your idea won't work, if you unplug the harness the whole bike is without power. Start upstream first. Take the tank off and test there
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roadie1389
Well-Known Member
Hopefully this helps and makes sense. The old EHC used ground signal inputs so when you pushed a button it sent that signal to the EHC to do something (turn signal, start, run, kill, .....) The new micro controller (IE RIP) use + signal inputs so what used to be ground (black wire) now has power.
The circuit is completed when you push a button. There is a drop box that has the schematics so you can trace each wire , you will need to reconnect that connector to the PCB and actually test the inputs at the JST under the tank to make sure your buttons work. You can do a continuity test at the PCB since you are there ground pin (black wire pin) to each of the respective pins as you pus and hold the button.
A few other things to test - When you hit the run button, you will get 12V at the ignition coil and the ignition module. See if you get 12V at the coil, if not then you have a bigger issue. If so you have a problem at the module and you can debug more. Also double check all the grounds.
The circuit is completed when you push a button. There is a drop box that has the schematics so you can trace each wire , you will need to reconnect that connector to the PCB and actually test the inputs at the JST under the tank to make sure your buttons work. You can do a continuity test at the PCB since you are there ground pin (black wire pin) to each of the respective pins as you pus and hold the button.
A few other things to test - When you hit the run button, you will get 12V at the ignition coil and the ignition module. See if you get 12V at the coil, if not then you have a bigger issue. If so you have a problem at the module and you can debug more. Also double check all the grounds.
roadie1389
Well-Known Member
Also. When you turn the key on, what works/lights up and what does not. That will also help narrow it down. Check all your connectors for loose pins.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0
awg
Guru
When I turn the key on.....all lights work. High/ low beam, both turn signals, brake lights. The only thing that is different is the front turn signals have been removed. When I had the tank off I seen the JST connector that went to the front. Like I said earlier the bike ran for two days. Then one day nothing. No power to ignition module. Thats how it all started.
awg
Guru
Are these connections right? I pulled the tank off again. I was looking at them and noticed the color code didn't match up. So the picture shows how it's plugged in now. The empty plug, has the correct color code. I went ahead and switched them. Everything works the same. So should I leave it as it is or change it so the wires match?
Also I have no power to the coil when I turn the key on. Should I?
Also I have no power to the coil when I turn the key on. Should I?
roadie1389
Well-Known Member
You should have power at the coil when you push the run button. Under the tank you should have -
3 pin connector (Y, B, W) - Headlight
2 x 2pin connector (G,B) - Compression Release
8 Pin connector (Grey Body) (Y,BR,BL,R,G,Violet,OR,B) - This goes to tach ring (Annunciator)
6 Pin (Grey, W, Y, Violet,B) Left Controls
6 Pin (B, G, BL, R, BR, OR) - Right Controls
6 Pin (R, BR, B, R, Violet, B) - Front Signals
3 Pin (R, G, B) - Speedo
Not sure how they did it in that yr but there might be a 5 pin connector or a 2 and a 3 but there are 2 for the key B,Or and one for the coil 3 pin R, BL, Y
There might be one more connector 3 pin R, Y, B that is for a separate Tach.
I think that covers it all.
3 pin connector (Y, B, W) - Headlight
2 x 2pin connector (G,B) - Compression Release
8 Pin connector (Grey Body) (Y,BR,BL,R,G,Violet,OR,B) - This goes to tach ring (Annunciator)
6 Pin (Grey, W, Y, Violet,B) Left Controls
6 Pin (B, G, BL, R, BR, OR) - Right Controls
6 Pin (R, BR, B, R, Violet, B) - Front Signals
3 Pin (R, G, B) - Speedo
Not sure how they did it in that yr but there might be a 5 pin connector or a 2 and a 3 but there are 2 for the key B,Or and one for the coil 3 pin R, BL, Y
There might be one more connector 3 pin R, Y, B that is for a separate Tach.
I think that covers it all.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
KaptinAmerika
Guru
I stated "which sends power to the crank sensor" which is wrong. The crank sensor creates it's own AC current.
The ignition module sends power to the coil.
Check the "Run" button wire which is pin #21. Remove the big grey plug, find pin 21 and match it's wire color.
Plug the connector back in. Using a voltmeter, set to DC, check for voltage on that wire when pressing the "Run".
You need to check your ignition module power supply at the Big Grey connector on the module also.
Pin #35 is the Ignition Module power. While you have the connector off match up it's wire color also.
Again, while pressing the run button, watch for voltage on that wire to make sure the signal is getting from the pcb in the hand controls down to the EHC module and on to the ignition module.
The above will tell you whether that system is working correctly and if not where to start troubleshooting to find the issue.
If everything is working down to the ignition module then try one more thing.
Take a wire and ground the ignition module case and try the "Run" button again.
If that fails then you have a bad ignition module. Although if that works, which it does once in a great while, you still have a defective ignition module and should replace it.
But as I stated before the easiest thing to do is test the ignition module directly first.
If it is bad then there is no since in doing all the other things listed above.
If you have a commercial type tester that can test electrical components like the "Power Probe" then you can also probe into the wire as opposed to trying to probe into the connector. i don't particularly care for that method because it damages the wire sheathing which is never a good thing.