Bike cuts off after it warms up

[Sven]

As Mike points out, this made me think of using a temp gun:
Fob on but not running. Let whoever begin to heat up in the static.
Running will show if static did not.
Who is hot? Wire going into fuse, or wire going out from fuse?

 

[Pops]

In the early days a number of guys including a good friend had a problem with Big Dogs proprietary EHC
Quite a few , including myself, had their bikes rewired....problem solved.
I sold my EHC to a member that was having problems ....problem solved.
Best of luck !

 

[willywill4765]

I've done so many things I think I have I thought it was like 13 I'll do it again when I get home cuz it starts so much better with the new coil, but as soon as it warms up after about 10 minutes shuts off, 15 minutes if I'm just letting it idle. Scared to take it out for a ride cuz then it always cuts out and I'm sitting somewhere for 15 minutes until the breaker resets. I'll check the headlight out here in about an hour get back with you hopefully it's not a pain in the ass to get the off

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I'm back, one of the set screws on the bottom of the light just keeps turning and turning and turning so I can't get the light out Don't know if there is another way I know I got to take the ring out first and then the bulb.

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[07bigdog]

Mine was doing the same thing. Changed out the stator, rotor and voltage regulator. Never had a problem after that. Note at first I just changed the stator and was still shutting down. Rotor needed to be replaced as well. I have the PDM electrical system.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I'm back, one of the set screws on the bottom of the light just keeps turning and turning and turning so I can't get the light out Don't know if there is another way I know I got to take the ring out first and then the bulb.

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You'll likely have to drill that out.
But before you do that try this trick, stretch a rubber band over the allen key and push it into the bolt and try turning. The rubber band may fill the gap and give enough tension to get the set screw out.

 

[chubs]

You'll likely have to drill that out.
But before you do that try this trick, stretch a rubber band over the allen key and push it into the bolt and try turning. The rubber band may fill the gap and give enough tension to get the set screw out.

One other suggestion,,, put a drop of super glue ont the end of the Allen Wrench and glue it into the screw. It may hold enough to help back that little screw out.

 

[willywill4765]

Mine was doing the same thing. Changed out the stator, rotor and voltage regulator. Never had a problem after that. Note at first I just changed the stator and was still shutting down. Rotor needed to be replaced as well. I have the PDM electrical system.

Yeah at the beginning of summer last year I had the voltage regulator and the stator replaced and at the end this summer I noticed my coil had a crack in it so I replaced that also. I'm not sure about the rotor but I will check thanks again

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[Mikeinjersey]

I have an 07 K9 . I had the same symptom except my breaker did not blow. The bike would run maybe 15-20 minutes then just crap out. After a cool down it would start and then crap out again after a short while. The final fix was a crank sensor.

 

[willywill4765]

I have an 07 K9 . I had the same symptom except my breaker did not blow. The bike would run maybe 15-20 minutes then just crap out. After a cool down it would start and then crap out again after a short while. The final fix was a crank sensor.

Yeah I took mine out it looks fine not really sure how you tell if they're broken or not, I grew up in eatontown right next door to you say hello to Jersey for me. But for about 60 bucks it's worth just getting a new one

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[1 B.M.F.]

Just curious what EHC are you running. And what voltage regulator you put in. Mine was doing the same thing but my right turn signal would light up on my speedo with key on.once I cranked it it would go off but it would shut off after 15 minutes of riding or so. I replaced EHC and VR. No more problems. If you have stock EHC, Curtis at WSW can check it. Not saying by any means that’s your problem, it’s just something to keep in the back of your mind. It sounds to me that to much power is going to circuit breaker you can check it by putting a multi meter on the VR. I would check that before it fries you EHC. And double check how your circuit breaker is wired. The copper bolt goes to VR and the galv. Goes to battery. But I’ll have to double check that could be vise versa. My bike is up at my shop I take a pix and post it. Mechanic could have swapped them around. Or you can call Curtis he knows how they go. But it is Saturday so don’t know if he will answer. But I’ll post it as soon as I get up there.

 

[willywill4765]

Just curious what EHC are you running. And what voltage regulator you put in. Mine was doing the same thing but my right turn signal would light up on my speedo with key on.once I cranked it it would go off but it would shut off after 15 minutes of riding or so. I replaced EHC and VR. No more problems. If you have stock EHC, Curtis at WSW can check it. Not saying by any means that’s your problem, it’s just something to keep in the back of your mind. It sounds to me that to much power is going to circuit breaker you can check it by putting a multi meter on the VR. I would check that before it fries you EHC. And double check how your circuit breaker is wired. The copper bolt goes to VR and the galv. Goes to battery. But I’ll have to double check that could be vise versa. My bike is up at my shop I take a pix and post it. Mechanic could have swapped them around. Or you can call Curtis he knows how they go. But it is Saturday so don’t know if he will answer. But I’ll post it as soon as I get up there.

This is the setup I have currently I think it's stock what came with the bike in 07

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[willywill4765]

Ok that's good you got it from Curtis so we know it's a good quality one.

I had a similar issue with my bagger, it would shut off but would restart immediately after cycling the key switch. Mine ended up being the key switch. You can jumper the switch to see if that fixes it.

Since it's an EFI bike have you hooked Protune up to it to check trouble codes?

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When you plug protein into the little s&s black box I have the software I just can't seem to get it to work is there a certain process, key on, key off, bike started or bike not started.

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[Mikeinjersey]

Hi Willy , you may not see any external signs on the sensor. When anything electrical gets hot resistance changes and can cause failures. I like your logic for $60 it's worth a shot. Your EHC looks original to me. I replaced mine for a different reason. When I hit the start button I only heard the compression releases . No signal to the starter sol. If I heated the EHC with a hair dryer it would work. My guess is small imperceptible cracks in the top and moisture getting in. I put an independent start button to the starter and manually pushed down the front compression release. Did that for one season then went for the new EHC. I got the ELEKTRONIK from Wild Steed (Plug and Play) and have had no further problems with all the stupid shit the original can cause. Big Dog offers a new one but way pricey. I can't speak to other choices .
To bad you left Jersey we were virtually neighbors. . Let me know how you make out.

 

[willywill4765]

Hi Willy , you may not see any external signs on the sensor. When anything electrical gets hot resistance changes and can cause failures. I like your logic for $60 it's worth a shot. Your EHC looks original to me. I replaced mine for a different reason. When I hit the start button I only heard the compression releases . No signal to the starter sol. If I heated the EHC with a hair dryer it would work. My guess is small imperceptible cracks in the top and moisture getting in. I put an independent start button to the starter and manually pushed down the front compression release. Did that for one season then went for the new EHC. I got the ELEKTRONIK from Wild Steed (Plug and Play) and have had no further problems with all the stupid shit the original can cause. Big Dog offers a new one but way pricey. I can't speak to other choices .
To bad you left Jersey we were virtually neighbors. . Let me know how you make out.

I still have a lot of buddies up there and I go up there quite often if I get up there this summer with the bike I'll give you a holler, my best friend growing up lived in the first house in eatontown it was a greenhouse right near fort Monmouth you probably remember it.

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[1 B.M.F.]

The VR you have, I think, it doesn’t have a ground wire. So in my mind it takes more of the load and will burn up quicker and send more amp than needed. it just might be popping your circuit breaker. For some reason my mind keeps going back to that reasoning. I really would, for mind sake, call Curtis at WSW and send him that EHC and have him test it. Curtis is honest and very knowledgeable. It’s $40. To test it and if it is bad, he doesn’t charge you for testing it IF you buy AXELS EHC. Which then you just plug it back in and roll. But I would double check that voltage regulator and check my thought on it sending enough power to pop that circuit breaker.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

The VR you have, I think, it doesn’t have a ground wire. So in my mind it takes more of the load and will burn up quicker and send more amp than needed. it just might be popping your circuit breaker. For some reason my mind keeps going back to that reasoning. I really would, for mind sake, call Curtis at WSW and send him that EHC and have him test it. Curtis is honest and very knowledgeable. It’s $40. To test it and if it is bad, he doesn’t charge you for testing it IF you buy AXELS EHC. Which then you just plug it back in and roll. But I would double check that voltage regulator and check my thought on it sending enough power to pop that circuit breaker.

Even easier -- Fully charge the battery and disconnect the VR from the circuit -- If it still pops, its not the VR.
A bad ground on the VR would more likely damage the VR than push to many amp thru the CB in my experience.
ie; the VR would over work with bad connection and it would get excessively hot.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Hey Willy this flowchart may help . I'll look for the green house I'm less than a mile from there.

 

[willywill4765]

Even easier -- Fully charge the battery and disconnect the VR from the circuit -- If it still pops, its not the VR.
A bad ground on the VR would more likely damage the VR than push to many amp thru the CB in my experience.
ie; the VR would over work with bad connection and it would get excessively hot.

My battery has been pretty fully charged, so I disconnected the VR from the breaker negative and positive tried to start the bike and it would not start. I put the battery on a charger it shows it 75%. I'll charge it fully and try it again.

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[Sven]

So in my mind it takes more of the load and will burn up quicker and send more amp than needed. it just might be popping your circuit breaker. For some reason my mind keeps going back to that reasoning.

It is my understanding that the charging system is a closed loop and can't pop fuses per say.
Two wires out the (+) side of the battery, and that is cable to the starter, and wire with fuse to the key switch.

You're wasting your time with the fuse if you think about a fuse. It would take over 32a to blow the fuse and hold it there. Show me the short. Short of buying a couple yards of heavy chain, WATT makes a boat anchor is a dead crank sensor on a car or bike.

I believe I just read something about electrical reversing and cooking a coil. I can see how a coil is almost like a crank sensor. So when they used ET type coils for the old BSA dirt bikes, they'd eventually crack. Why? Again, tattoo this to your memory... " E ~ You cannot separate heat and its chemical reaction". So if you look inside a crank sensor, it has the same coil winding like some parts of the coil inside. That sensor has two wires, right? That's one long ass wire wrapped around itself so many times, and if like a chain, it breaks a link somewhere heat wise. So heat wise, a chemical reaction of the lacquer or whatever covering of that single wire, it does not touch each wind. If it melts from heat, eventually moves or touches the next bare wire = No hall effect up the wire.

Cools down, something inside moves, I'm just guessing, and then its back to not touching itself until said temp enters the pitcher... I'm done drinking from the Well?

 

[Mikeinjersey]

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