Bike cuts off after it warms up

[Sven]

What I'm reading, I'm going to explain what you said and add to it:

I unhooked the VR wire to the battery.
I started the bike and with the volt meter set at 20v, it spiked to 58v? (I assume you are reading the volt meter, right?)
I ran the bike 15 minutes at idle; so being air cooled, is stationary; the bike heats up, the pipes glow, I know, I know... now.
I caused the bike to run at a total loss [no charge in play] so I know there is no spike at the fuse from the VR.
Plus:
I could ride with all connected, and within 15 minutes, she dies.
I can remove the VR, let it sit and still the bike cuts off within 15 minutes.
I have no problems with the processor because it continues to refire.
I pull out the wallet and ask the fold, do I throw the price of a sensor at it or the larger part being the processor.
I can for sure have a new sensor in play on the cheap, because if it still cuts out on the first test, gulp.
I then ask the wallet one more time, do we buy a boat or a processor?

So back to the 58... WATT or where was this number if the meter is set at 20v? Or was it set at 200v, next one up meter wise?
Or did you see 5.8v once you started the engine to draw the volts down, and that was what you saw and it came back up to 13v+?

I can't make this scenario work... The stator is loose? No. The spike is a constant? You'd have to start it up and have that 58 repeat.
No loose stator or rotor, or all those rides your battery has taken, would have gone down if the AC acted up but no.
Did you hear a click at the fuse this time with VR not connected?

 

[willywill4765]

What I'm reading, I'm going to explain what you said and add to it:

I unhooked the VR wire to the battery.
I started the bike and with the volt meter set at 20v, it spiked to 58v? (I assume you are reading the volt meter, right?)
I ran the bike 15 minutes at idle; so being air cooled, is stationary; the bike heats up, the pipes glow, I know, I know... now.
I caused the bike to run at a total loss [no charge in play] so I know there is no spike at the fuse from the VR.
Plus:
I could ride with all connected, and within 15 minutes, she dies.
I can remove the VR, let it sit and still the bike cuts off within 15 minutes.
I have no problems with the processor because it continues to refire.
I pull out the wallet and ask the fold, do I throw the price of a sensor at it or the larger part being the processor.
I can for sure have a new sensor in play on the cheap, because if it still cuts out on the first test, gulp.
I then ask the wallet one more time, do we buy a boat or a processor?

So back to the 58... WATT or where was this number if the meter is set at 20v? Or was it set at 200v, next one up meter wise?
Or did you see 5.8v once you started the engine to draw the volts down, and that was what you saw and it came back up to 13v+?

I can't make this scenario work... The stator is loose? No. The spike is a constant? You'd have to start it up and have that 58 repeat.
No loose stator or rotor, or all those rides your battery has taken, would have gone down if the AC acted up but no.
Did you hear a click at the fuse this time with VR not connected?

Okay my bad, with everything connected voltage regulator to the 40 amp, all battery connections connected when the bike is idling I am reading like 13.7-13.8 volts and it stays there consistent. Then I give it some throttle up to like $1,500 RPMs and it's reading like 14.10. I forget what I did to get the reading to go up into the high 40s low 50s it might have been with the voltage regulator unhooked I'm not sure. But it sounds like everything else you said was accurate. The only thing I have not done yet was to clean the grounds sand them way down to metal like you said I'll probably be able to get to that on Friday. But yes the crank sensor was a less expensive trial and error to try and fix it it just seems like something is heating the top end of the motor as my pipes get red and as soon as they start to get red the bike cuts out so I don't know if there's some kind of thermostat sensor that's not working that shuts the engine off to save it.

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[willywill4765]

Okay my bad, with everything connected voltage regulator to the 40 amp, all battery connections connected when the bike is idling I am reading like 13.7-13.8 volts and it stays there consistent. Then I give it some throttle up to like $1,500 RPMs and it's reading like 14.10. I forget what I did to get the reading to go up into the high 40s low 50s it might have been with the voltage regulator unhooked I'm not sure. But it sounds like everything else you said was accurate. The only thing I have not done yet was to clean the grounds sand them way down to metal like you said I'll probably be able to get to that on Friday. But yes the crank sensor was a less expensive trial and error to try and fix it it just seems like something is heating the top end of the motor as my pipes get red and as soon as they start to get red the bike cuts out so I don't know if there's some kind of thermostat sensor that's not working that shuts the engine off to save it.

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You don't hear the breaker trip but it trips and once it cools down it resets itself and I'm able to start it again. I just wish I could get that protein software to work because that would probably solve a lot, does anybody know if the USB port coming out of the EHC that the two connectors connect to, if there was a way I could run protune software through that. Or does it have to be connected to the s&s tuner pretty sure it does.

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[1 B.M.F.]

1st off that’s not the VR wsw sells. Curtis sell compufire VR that’s just for you info. Now red hot pipes should not be happening. Your fuel injection system is on the fritz. I don’t know a thing about fuel injectors or 02 sensors but red hot pipes tells me your problem is in your fuel injection system. Now you said you rode 300-400 miles without a problem. Your pipes just started getting red hot. I would check your wiring on you fuel injection system. Check your 02 sensors wiring for a melted wire. Check your fuel injection system for a loose or broken wire. I don’t know what would cause the breaker to trip on that system. But red hot pipes says there’s a problem there.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

I would double check with the mechanic who worked on it and double check that he got the right rotor stator and VR that you asked for.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

 

[1 B.M.F.]

Just so you would have it.

 

[Sven]

Let's try this. With the crank sensor cover off so you expose it for both a hair dryer and a can of dust-off, you hook up the VR, let it idle again, heat the sensor with the hair dryer. Why? You do not want to cook the air cooled engine and heat sink the pipes turning red again, so you heat the sensor with less engine heat to stall it.

As soon as the bike shuts off, spray the fuse with dust-off. Did it click? No. Try to start the bike. Did it fire with the spray to the fuse? No. As fast as you can doing all this, dust-off the sensor, let it show the hint of the sensor cooling off by the frost it leaves, hit the starter and see if it starts. Or, as soon as it stalls first time, spray the sensor first, but as one hand on the can, one hand at the starter, you both spray and hold the starter button down... if starts back up = Sensor.

Just so we are on the same page... look how I read the posts:
We look in our old owner's manual of some air cooled engine and it says; 'we have to write this sentence to you dummies out there that do not understand thermodynamics and the spread of heat transfer of an air cooled engine sitting still and you walk away for a half hour, come back and the pipes sag like your jaw when you come back to it.'

And the other funny is some mechanic installed the wrong stator when he blips the throttle and 14.WATT was that perfect number? So count out the stator as over charging, count out an advance problem with the last time out it ran perfect, no glowing parts as moving air is the chrome glowing, not the whole tube in said red.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

 

[willywill4765]

Let's try this. With the crank sensor cover off so you expose it for both a hair dryer and a can of dust-off, you hook up the VR, let it idle again, heat the sensor with the hair dryer. Why? You do not want to cook the air cooled engine and heat sink the pipes turning red again, so you heat the sensor with less engine heat to stall it.

As soon as the bike shuts off, spray the fuse with dust-off. Did it click? No. Try to start the bike. Did it fire with the spray to the fuse? No. As fast as you can doing all this, dust-off the sensor, let it show the hint of the sensor cooling off by the frost it leaves, hit the starter and see if it starts. Or, as soon as it stalls first time, spray the sensor first, but as one hand on the can, one hand at the starter, you both spray and hold the starter button down... if starts back up = Sensor.

Just so we are on the same page... look how I read the posts:
We look in our old owner's manual of some air cooled engine and it says; 'we have to write this sentence to you dummies out there that do not understand thermodynamics and the spread of heat transfer of an air cooled engine sitting still and you walk away for a half hour, come back and the pipes sag like your jaw when you come back to it.'

And the other funny is some mechanic installed the wrong stator when he blips the throttle and 14.WATT was that perfect number? So count out the stator as over charging, count out an advance problem with the last time out it ran perfect, no glowing parts as moving air is the chrome glowing, not the whole tube in said red.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

I will buy some dust off and try that this evening, I know letting the bike sit and run without air will make the engine hotter it's just while I've been in the garage trying to fix this I noticed the pipes got red just the pipes not my chrome heat shields. Are you saying it's okay to take out the crank sensor and start the bike without it being installed in the hole on the bottom of the engine I'm not sure if any liquid will come out. Just trying to get on the same page.

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[Sven]

Think of the crank sensor as a set of old style ignition points. So no... if removed, it won't start at all. Thus, any computer bike becomes the boat anchor>> once the crank sensor fails. I believe we are looking at a cone cover with a single cam, ala evo engine. So if it's a copy of harley's design, the crank sensor does not live in a bath of oil. Nor is it mounted to the cone cover that would leak once the screws are removed to replace the sensor.

Are we looking like this? https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofich...%20ASSEMBLY%20W/%20VACUUM%20SWITCH%20ASSEMBLY

10 and 11 are crank sensors. 12 and 13 are cups. Generically speaking, we are going to loophole the timing. Look at cup 12's open windows, for a better name. That turns so when and if you find out the sensor recovers with the dust-off, position the window at 12 o'clock so it's lined up at that block where the wires end up at their ends. Shoot the position of the old sensor before you remove the plate. Pop the photo back up and now lineup the new sensor in same said position and never move the cup or crank.

If it starts up with the new sensor and does not crank but lights off as soon as you hit the starter... boy did you luck out with perfect timing, meaning, no need to check timing having the plug out, with the oil splashing out all over the timing light, your clothes, etc.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I thought Willy had an 07 Bulldog. Totally different crank sensor than the parts finder link. This sensor is good for all models after 05 except 2009 thru 11 wolf.

 

[Sven]

Thanks, Mike. I think you'll be alright pulling the sensor off. It's above any oil line, being this is a dry sump engine where most of the oil is returned back to the oil tank from the crankcase.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

 

[1 B.M.F.]

This is a diagram of your bike. Circled is the way it should be wired. The only wires connected to circuit breaker is battery and voltage regulator. Starter is coming from battery. I noticed you have two circuit breakers in line. Why is that?

 

[1 B.M.F.]

No circuit breaker on crank sensor ignition coil or key. Double check that wiring on circuit breaker. maybe just maybe get one. a resettable one.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

I posted this problem in general on this forum. Maybe someone will chime in and know exactly what to do. Sorry I couldn’t be more help. Once you unhooked the VR, and the circuit breaker was still popping. Something hooked to it was causing it to pop.I’m confused what that other circuit breaker is hooked to. I don’t know. But I do know what ever is hooked to it is what is causing it to pop.

 

[bruce]

Okay I do not want to sound like a smart ass but everyone here does understand that these engines are air-cooled so if you just sit idling racing the engine your pipes are going to get hotter than normal this can happen just normal riding if you're doing a lot of stop-and-go. if you know anyone in your area that has a emissions machine that reads four or five gases, probe your tailpipe to see if your running rich - which would cause the red pipes or your spark plugs - see how they're burning it should be a light brown color if they're black it's an indication of running rich, checking a spark plugs would work fine for either fuel injected or carbureted bikes. I am in Fawn Grove Pennsylvania and do have an emissions machine which is how I tune my carburetor which is why I get about 50 miles to a gallon I'll be glad to check anybody's pipes in the area if they want of course no charge just to help out

 

[Rottweiler]

Hey Bruce your only about a hours ride away from me. Might want to take you up on that someday after this bull shit is over.

 

[willywill4765]

Okay I do not want to sound like a smart ass but everyone here does understand that these engines are air-cooled so if you just sit idling racing the engine your pipes are going to get hotter than normal this can happen just normal riding if you're doing a lot of stop-and-go. if you know anyone in your area that has a emissions machine that reads four or five gases, probe your tailpipe to see if your running rich - which would cause the red pipes or your spark plugs - see how they're burning it should be a light brown color if they're black it's an indication of running rich, checking a spark plugs would work fine for either fuel injected or carbureted bikes. I am in Fawn Grove Pennsylvania and do have an emissions machine which is how I tune my carburetor which is why I get about 50 miles to a gallon I'll be glad to check anybody's pipes in the area if they want of course no charge just to help out

Appreciate the info Bruce,. My plugs look good The way they're supposed to look it's just the other part with the bike cutting out. And I know you're not supposed to sit still I wasn't revving it I was just letting it idle in the garage not in the sun with multiple things that I tried to do to try to figure out the problem. I was driving it but it's really a bummer when you're going down the road and the thing just cuts out on you dangerous quite dangerous also. I'm going to try these last few things that a couple members suggested and if that doesn't work I'm bringing it to the shop can't stand it with this beautiful weather in quarantine and my bike's not running at least I could be quarantined on the road

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[willywill4765]

Thanks, Mike. I think you'll be alright pulling the sensor off. It's above any oil line, being this is a dry sump engine where most of the oil is returned back to the oil tank from the crankcase.

Started the bike and this is an update ran the bike and yes I know you're not supposed to run the bike not moving it's air-cooled I just don't want to break down on the road, and you warmed up after about 15 minutes it cut out. I hit some dust off cold spray on the breaker try to start it would not start. Waited another 10 minutes or so started it up no problem it ran for another 5 minutes cuz it was still hot then shut off took the crank sensor out try to start it and it was really blowing a lot of air out of it so I hit it with some free spray put it back in and it cranked right up ran for about 7 minutes cut out waited a minute tried to start it would not start again. Took the crank sensor out again blasted it with some cold air put it back in and it starts right up. This would be crazy if this is what it is cuz I've been driving myself nuts what is your thoughts just order a crank sensor.

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