Bike cuts off after it warms up

Energy One

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Read Post # 28 and you'll know where I stand on your question. You can never be positive with an intermittent electrical problem but with the evidence you have gained at least it's a very good educated guess. Good Luck.
 

willywill4765

Active Member
Read Post # 28 and you'll know where I stand on your question. You can never be positive with an intermittent electrical problem but with the evidence you have gained at least it's a very good educated guess. Good Luck.
Mike I just went all the way back to number 28 and yes I read it and if this is it God I want to shoot myself not literally at least I want to ride the bike for a couple hours then shoot myself . I really appreciate everything dude and I hope this is it would order that damn thing a month ago. I will definitely let you know have a great weekend what's left of it in quarantine, I hope your bike is running.

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Sven

Well-Known Member
... another 5 minutes cuz it was still hot then shut off took the crank sensor out try to start it and it was really blowing a lot of air
Wait up. Here is a mistake that worked out? I think I said the oil is low to very little to change out the senor, not start it up without the sensor in play. However, you lit it off without a set of points, more or less, and oiled the place. I wanna laugh, but you just schooled the house if not me for a simple test.

... so I hit it with some free spray put it back... and it starts right up.
Where most likely the steel side had the coil winding behind the core or the nose you sprayed. Walk it:
1. The constant. It took the cook to kill the sensor. Time [ticktock] and again, basically the same time is the 15 minute window.
2. The outside spray at the mount. The time changed to 7min, oh look half the time is half cooled, says the junk science.
3. The sensor pull. This time, you sprayed the nose or the core where the copper winding is; not up to the wire/solder/bake.
4. The black box is ready to go so is the battery, short of a sensor exposing WATT should be burned in your brain....

The Theory of E: "Magnetism, you cannot separate heat and its chemical reaction".
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Post #7: Breaker blows/cools/starts.
Post #28: No noise at breaker.

Willy, where was the breaker when all this cold spray was aimed at the core's nose and it fires right up. Where was the breaker noise in all this?
 

willywill4765

Active Member
Post #7: Breaker blows/cools/starts.
Post #28: No noise at breaker.

Willy, where was the breaker when all this cold spray was aimed at the core's nose and it fires right up. Where was the breaker noise in all this?
When it cut out for the first time, I shot the breaker with dust off, I called it freeze spray. I then tried to start it The bike back up and it did not start. Way back end of last year when I was trying to figure this out someone told me that it was tripping the breaker and that it must be something electrical. With all the different conversations and text messages it's somehow went to it was popping the breaker, and then someone said you heard a popping when the breaker tripped. So this whole time of course a couple months off in the winter when I couldn't ride it anyway me and everybody else thought it was something electrical and hell it still might be. Then the cold spray was brought up with the crank sensor so that's where I ended up yesterday. Tried to start it after it died would not start, then I sprayed the breaker and it still would not start, then I shot the outside of the crank sensor, would not start, then I took the crank sensor out sprayed it cleaned it put it back in and it started right up, since the bike was still fairly warm it ran for about five six seven minutes and then cut out again, try to start it would not start took the crank sensor out real quick cleaned it it shot it The cold spray put it back in and it cranked right up. I'm hoping it's the crank sensor. A friend of mine has an '04 but I think his engine is newer and I think someone said they used the same crank sensor in '05 on up and may go try to borrow his and put it in and see if that's what it is. Or if anybody has a Harley cross reference I could run to the Harley dealership on Monday.

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Sven

Well-Known Member
Don't bother. Just wait for the dealer on monday, take yours with you, say 'for an '05 twinkie engine, take this to the back with you and match it with this unknown part, please'.

Post #28: the paraphrase; 'there was no fuse click with my c/s failure'. I'm willing to throw a fuse clicking in the loop. Someone had that variable as an experience. Who am I to know, but learn something from it. So with your fuse freeze, no joy, can't be the fuse if we say we wait for the heat to dissipate> but this was immediate room temp, and into a frost on the Florida oranges> instantly. Once you sprayed that nose and it lit up... Joy.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Hey Willy, FYI bigdogpartskingpin on Ebay is a great place to find BD parts and BD cloths. Best to call Donna direct 620-257-2009 for parts availability.
 

willywill4765

Active Member
Hey Willy, FYI bigdogpartskingpin on Ebay is a great place to find BD parts and BD cloths. Best to call Donna direct 620-257-2009 for parts availability.
Thank you my brother, FYI I ordered that Crank sensor and installed it last night and the bike did not cut off. Pretty happy about that went up and down my road drove around the neighborhood came home 24 minutes and it was still running so I was pretty damn happy. But the pipes underneath my heat shields still get a little red, not sure if that's normal and I actually wrote it around the neighborhood. Was low on fuel and all I had was non-ethanol gas for my mowers so I put a little in just for the ride seemed to ride okay but it was late didn't want to wake up the neighbors. Still not home yet Long day was hoping to get a little ride today to see if everything was good with some better fuel in the tank. I usually run 92 or 93 octane always seem to run pretty good with that. Again appreciate everything I will give you another update after I take it for a longer spin.

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Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update Will Great News ! As for your pipes getting extra hot. I'm not sure how to verify what the proper temp should be but if you take a laser gun and read the temp of your pipe (not the shield) someone on this site may know what temp to expect. Maybe S&S may have the answer for that question.
If your bike is running well all may be OK. If it backfires a lot you may be running lean which can cause engine damage over time. Running rich is less problematic. It will give you crap mileage, fouled plugs and black smoke but from what I understand it won't damage the engine like running lean.
If you are the original owner and have done no changes like pipes, baffles, intakes and such it's probably mapped correctly. Otherwise, any changes to the engine without mapping may be causing it to run hot.
Good Luck
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
I have an 06 Pitbull. After a short ride it would die and come to a stop. Motor would crank, it was like out of gas but I had gas. After waiting so many minutes and removing and replacing the gas cap it would start up again. I removed the gas cap and on the underside of gas cap I had this white colored octogen shaped piece of plastic. I unscrewed it from the bottom side of the gas cap and left it off. It seems to have solved my problem so far. If this doesn't work check crank sensor.
Yup, that is a common problem.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
I have an 06 Pitbull. After a short ride it would die and come to a stop. Motor would crank, it was like out of gas but I had gas. After waiting so many minutes and removing and replacing the gas cap it would start up again. I removed the gas cap and on the underside of gas cap I had this white colored octogen shaped piece of plastic. I unscrewed it from the bottom side of the gas cap and left it off. It seems to have solved my problem so far. If this doesn't work check crank sensor.
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I'm not sure but without that piece in the cap gas may leak out the top. If removing the cap fixed the issue you should buy a new cap.
If you find that the cap was not your problem then the fun starts trying to find the failure. Most likely it lies somewhere in the ignition system. Your symptom is consistent with a crank sensor intermittent failure. You can clean it and visually check it. Keep in mind it can look perfect and still fail after it heats up. In general, It is not a good policy to troubleshoot with parts but in the case of a crank sensor it may be the only way to eliminate it as a possible cause.
 

willywill4765

Active Member
I have an 06 Pitbull. After a short ride it would die and come to a stop. Motor would crank, it was like out of gas but I had gas. After waiting so many minutes and removing and replacing the gas cap it would start up again. I removed the gas cap and on the underside of gas cap I had this white colored octogen shaped piece of plastic. I unscrewed it from the bottom side of the gas cap and left it off. It seems to have solved my problem so far. If this doesn't work check crank sensor.
I put a new Crank sensor in, and seem to have worked fixed by overheating and dying problem. $120 for the part and my problem went away thank God.

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willywill4765

Active Member
I will check again to double check what I wrote a while back.

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Does anybody know what is the correct way to check what the voltage regulator is sending to the battery do I just put my voltmeter on the 40 amp breaker and test it that way or is there a better way

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Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Pull the plug on the front of the engine for the stator. Put your voltmeter on AC. You should have around 20-25 volts ac coming out of there. Plug it back up and check at the battery. It should have 14-14.5 DC at the battery.
If you are still running the original vr, or it is more than 10 years old. I would recommend changing the charging system out any way.
Just another thought on the dieing, have you checked to see if it is vapor locking. Check the vent on the gas cap.
 

willywill4765

Active Member
Pull the plug on the front of the engine for the stator. Put your voltmeter on AC. You should have around 20-25 volts ac coming out of there. Plug it back up and check at the battery. It should have 14-14.5 DC at the battery.
If you are still running the original vr, or it is more than 10 years old. I would recommend changing the charging system out any way.
Just another thought on the dieing, have you checked to see if it is vapor locking. Check the vent on the gas cap.
No, the bike's been running great ever since I changed the crank sensor. Although my check engine light just came on yesterday,I was about 30 miles from home but bike ran great. I ordered a new 9-p in male and female connector so I could try to get the protein software to work so I can check and see what is wrong with it now

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willywill4765

Active Member
Pull the plug on the front of the engine for the stator. Put your voltmeter on AC. You should have around 20-25 volts ac coming out of there. Plug it back up and check at the battery. It should have 14-14.5 DC at the battery.
If you are still running the original vr, or it is more than 10 years old. I would recommend changing the charging system out any way.
Just another thought on the dieing, have you checked to see if it is vapor locking. Check the vent on the gas cap.
Just read the end how do you check the vent on the gas cap

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Mr. Wright

Knows some things
First, take it off and look at the bottom. If it still has the white insert in it, take it out and throw it away. Next, put your lips on it and blow.
 
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