My clutch has been slipping and I just put a new clutch in so I'm hoping if I replace the hub it will fix my problem
Think of two dimensions of X and Y. X is spin fore and aft, Y is expand, and collapse. Those are the two movements.
This is how X uniformly hammers the indents via the pack of locked plates. Lift/accel/lift/accel... all that banging back and forth direction(s).
Operation wise, would you agree vertical is X for spin with plates at the upright position? Would not sticking be more like a problem the operation would come across as a variable, not how it works? This would be Y for a horizontal expansion of the plates now being two moving parts when clutch pulled.
That brings us back to X times Y = Cannot expand times the ears hammering into a groove and can't slide. So the steels are still being dragged up to the rear bumper, as if it was one warp clutch steel would do the same thing almost, but to break an ankle looking for N, sure.
Same-Same. Upon collapse, and under load, it's like an upright stack of domino's, one falls into the next one and so forth. The 'ears' of both plates line up and lock as one. So both center and outer receive equal hammering by the ears.. Kind of see how we worked two variables here? Groove bang and the eyes growing wide is one with stuck plates in their grooves, and a warp of a plate taking up such a narrow collapse, N is a bitch to find.
Yes I still need one how much do you want for it
Not sure if their is any play but I'm going to definitely check when I get home thank you for the infoThink of two dimensions of X and Y. X is spin fore and aft, Y is expand, and collapse. Those are the two movements.
This is how X uniformly hammers the indents via the pack of locked plates. Lift/accel/lift/accel... all that banging back and forth direction(s).
Operation wise, would you agree vertical is X for spin with plates at the upright position? Would not sticking be more like a problem the operation would come across as a variable, not how it works? This would be Y for a horizontal expansion of the plates now being two moving parts when clutch pulled.
That brings us back to X times Y = Cannot expand times the ears hammering into a groove and can't slide. So the steels are still being dragged up to the rear bumper, as if it was one warp clutch steel would do the same thing almost, but to break an ankle looking for N, sure.
Same-Same. Upon collapse, and under load, it's like an upright stack of domino's, one falls into the next one and so forth. The 'ears' of both plates line up and lock as one. So both center and outer receive equal hammering by the ears.. Kind of see how we worked two variables here? Groove bang and the eyes growing wide is one with stuck plates in their grooves, and a warp of a plate taking up such a narrow collapse, N is a bitch to find.
Where 30 is a shaft stabilizer. Where 28 is being pulled by the crank with a row of chains, it's a lot of weight. Where 20 bolts to 21 and that says rear wheel is chained to this shaft. Where any steel and friction have ears on the one diameter, and none on the other diameter.
With the grooves at the end of the clutch center, are we looking at a cocking of the shaft with a now loose clutch outer basket? Only a steel plate knows for sure, meaning, no ears left. But I sort of doubt it was caused by the ears/tangs, but the smooth side of the frictions and the possible wobble at 30 being broke at a spoke(s)?
And third is how much pack is left from the original stack height? The stack is compressing those springs. When the pack wears down, the springs grow and lose locking tension of the pack, and there is your slip higher up making more HP.
I can move that shaft back and forth pretty easy it doesn't sound good
No sir, that is no good you shouldn't be able to move it up/down, side-to-side, or in/out.
Dogs/breast nipples; go into a slot of a freewheeler. A shaft has shims against the bearing, as do the frwheelers, so there is no slop when the dog enters the slot, or the frwheel moves away from the dog's entry and now pops out of gear going into a helical cut, and here it pushes the basket out, or the pushrod out it causes slip? Is it:
How hard will it be to take that main shaft bearing out