07 K9 Knocking Bad - Suggestions? I'm stumped....
- Thread starter snypr
- Start date
Good call, but is this knocking or tapping? Get out a stethescope and try to pin point the origin of the noise.
snypr
Member
I haven't got everything back together yet (heads rebuilt, new piston set, push rods, and cam) to check. I am hoping that everything will be fine with doing this. :bang:
BadBrad
2005 Pitbull
I'm too lazy to go back and read again but I think snyper said he found more parts of the valve guide in the other cylinder that would have been making some noise.
Snypr,
Did you say they got there via intake manifold? I would think that would be a hard way to go since there is always pressure pulling into the cylinder, not the other way around, but someone else would have to say for sure. This was a topic when I first joined this site. John Sachs explained to me how parts of valve guide can break off and make their way back into the oil system........I believe that's what he was saying.........so you may want to check and make sure that all the pieces of your valve guide have been cleaned out before firing that mother back up.
BadBrad
2005 Pitbull
Like John stated, it hard to determine without actually hearing.
Seeing that you said that you bent the valve in a Z pattern, that's a pretty hard hit on the valve and "valve train" components. I'd be sure to check the rockers,push rods, lifters and also cam.
After that, if the noise is still there, I'd suggest pulling it back down and thoroughly checking out the cylinder that the valve was bent. Looking at the rod once again, rod & crank bearings, wrist pin and the piston skirt (in the wrist pin area) for damage.
But I'm leaning towards more valve train damage, the bottom end is much stronger than the rest of the valve train components.
Hope this helps! Good Luck! :2thumbs:
dead
Hey Dead,
If you started all your replies with, "Like John stated", no one would ever question your intelligence.
:roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:
TheDeadOne
Banned
Hey John, did you here that?
BadBrad is telling me to start everything using your name!
What do you think, should I?
I like the idea of people thinking I can count to 10!
1 2 3 4 6 8 5 7 9 10!
I like it when my intelligence is in question by others! :2thumbs:
My Grand Pappy always said "Don't show 'em all your best cards"! :nono:
And I still haven't!
because I can't seem to find the cards anymore!
I wonder What's Up with that? :lol::lol::lol:
I wonder if there's going to be any magically disappearing post on this thread too?
..............:lol::lol::lol:
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snypr
Member
I'm too lazy to go back and read again but I think snyper said he found more parts of the valve guide in the other cylinder that would have been making some noise.
Snypr,
Did you say they got there via intake manifold? I would think that would be a hard way to go since there is always pressure pulling into the cylinder, not the other way around, but someone else would have to say for sure. This was a topic when I first joined this site. John Sachs explained to me how parts of valve guide can break off and make their way back into the oil system........I believe that's what he was saying.........so you may want to check and make sure that all the pieces of your valve guide have been cleaned out before firing that mother back up.
BADBRAD,
Yes, when I tore down the rear cylinder there were some pieces of the valve guide that were imbeded in the top of the piston. I reference that I assumed they got there via the intake manifold due to there size there was no other way for them to get there.
Since then I have been accumulating parts for the rebuild. So far the parts are a VThunder .640 cam, Andrews 292140 Push Rods, and S&S 92-1558 Pistons. The pistons are for a 124". The deal was so good I am waiting to find out if I can bore my 117" cyclinder out enough with out affecting anything. All others please chime in if you think these parts won't work.
snypr
Member
All who have responded:
I finally got everything back together. I found no other damage than the bent valve, broken valve guide, and the tops of both pistons being chewed up with top ring being froze on front piston. The run out was within tolerance on the rods so I did not replace them.
I got S&S to warranty the pistons, rings, steel collar, valve, and valve guide. I ended up putting Mahle stroker pistons ($100 Ebay) in which have a .053 higher compression height and used Cometic gaskets (.010 base, .027 head, .020 rocker base) (Thanks Toobaddcustoms) thus zero decking without any machine work. I also installed a Vthunder .608 cam ($29 Ebay), thunderslide in the carb and a hypercharger. The bike runs awesome!
I finally got everything back together. I found no other damage than the bent valve, broken valve guide, and the tops of both pistons being chewed up with top ring being froze on front piston. The run out was within tolerance on the rods so I did not replace them.
I got S&S to warranty the pistons, rings, steel collar, valve, and valve guide. I ended up putting Mahle stroker pistons ($100 Ebay) in which have a .053 higher compression height and used Cometic gaskets (.010 base, .027 head, .020 rocker base) (Thanks Toobaddcustoms) thus zero decking without any machine work. I also installed a Vthunder .608 cam ($29 Ebay), thunderslide in the carb and a hypercharger. The bike runs awesome!
outdoorsman26
Well-Known Member
and there ya have it!!!! great job hope it stays together for ya!!!
snypr
Member
All,
The only issue that has surfaced is that it appears that I am developing alot of pressure in the rocker boxes as my front push rod oil tubes will not seal. I put new o-rings in. No matter what I do after about 5 miles of riding they start leaking. They are fine while idling and warming up in the garage but soon as she hits the open road then drip drip. The riding weather here is in the Low 30's but don't know if that has something to do with it.
The only other thing I was wondering about was if I have the push rods adjusted a little tight and if that would put a little extra pressure in the top end to make the o-rings leak?
I did get 1st place in the bike show this last weekend, it didn't leak there!:bang::lol::bang:
The only issue that has surfaced is that it appears that I am developing alot of pressure in the rocker boxes as my front push rod oil tubes will not seal. I put new o-rings in. No matter what I do after about 5 miles of riding they start leaking. They are fine while idling and warming up in the garage but soon as she hits the open road then drip drip. The riding weather here is in the Low 30's but don't know if that has something to do with it.
The only other thing I was wondering about was if I have the push rods adjusted a little tight and if that would put a little extra pressure in the top end to make the o-rings leak?
I did get 1st place in the bike show this last weekend, it didn't leak there!:bang::lol::bang:
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TheDeadOne
Banned
Check both of your crankcase breather lines for blockage and check your breather line check valve. If there is too much pressure inside of the motor causing it to leak, I'd start there! :2thumbs:
Hell, who knows, maybe some more trash from the previous damage.
dead
Hell, who knows, maybe some more trash from the previous damage.
dead
MARV
Well-Known Member
snypr
Member
Sorry, sold on ebay!
snypr
Member
Took the rockers off and put in new o-rings. No leaks! However, now my oil pressure is 35 at idle and 50 at mid power? Next step I guess is as you and RRUFF stated to check breather lines. I never removed check valve so I don't think that is the issue. :bang:Check both of your crankcase breather lines for blockage and check your breather line check valve. If there is too much pressure inside of the motor causing it to leak, I'd start there! :2thumbs:
Hell, who knows, maybe some more trash from the previous damage.
dead
Also, after shutting down the motor and checking the oil. Oil blew out the fill neck as soon as the o-ring cleared the threads?
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TheDeadOne
Banned
That's crank case pressure, not good. It's not venting somewhere!
If there is trash in the check valve it won't operate properly! So it could be your problem.
At this point, after tearing up parts of the motor, don't ever count anything out, parts trash could be anywhere! :nono:
If the oil pressure is that high when cold it's OK.
But if it's that high at idle after the motor is hot. I'd say you might want to check out a few things that could be blocked causing it to be that high.
Good Luck! :2thumbs:
dead
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snypr
Member
Much appreciated advice! Will do. I will post the outcome.That's crank case pressure, not good. It's not venting somewhere!
If there is trash in the check valve it won't operate properly! So it could be your problem.
At this point, after tearing up parts of the motor, don't ever count anything out, parts trash could be anywhere! :nono:
If the oil pressure is that high when cold it's OK.
But if it's that high at idle after the motor is hot. I'd say you might want to check out a few things that could be blocked causing it to be that high.
Good Luck! :2thumbs:
dead
When you did the top end did you ensure there the check valve on the rear breather hose went back in properly?