BWG56
Guru
Tru Dat, not to mention it would leave your hands whiteWhen I was a kid on the farm diesel and gas were the go to cheap cleaners. This shit will kill you today
EHC replacement
- Thread starter Axel
- Start date
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
Ya, he did some amazing things in his life too bad I got so few of his talents and wisdom....Soooo, your father was a genius
Axel
Active Member
I could imagine that a little current through the thermistor will heat it up in the moment when no liquid (gas) is around what will follow to a glow of the led. The temperature of the thermistor is lower as long there is liquid around what will cool down the sensor. Air have a much more lousy thermal resistance compare to any kind of liquid.
All the best!
Axel
All the best!
Axel
Axel
Active Member
Hm, I haven´t read the last page of the thread. Sometimes it makes sense to read the thread until the end before posting... Eric you already explained very good the function of the thermistor, Great
I already changed the layout a bit in the EHC. For the new version there is no need for an additional fuse. This is except of the EFI version. In the EFI version I still provide an external fuse, cause I have the internal current limit board not ready yet for the EFI version.
All the best!
Axel
I already changed the layout a bit in the EHC. For the new version there is no need for an additional fuse. This is except of the EFI version. In the EFI version I still provide an external fuse, cause I have the internal current limit board not ready yet for the EFI version.
All the best!
Axel
Thanks. Ignore these hijackers, this isn't the thread for that haha.Hm, I haven´t read the last page of the thread. Sometimes it makes sense to read the thread until the end before posting... Eric you already explained very good the function of the thermistor, Great
I already changed the layout a bit in the EHC. For the new version there is no need for an additional fuse. This is except of the EFI version. In the EFI version I still provide an external fuse, cause I have the internal current limit board not ready yet for the EFI version.
All the best!
Axel
I was just wondering more your experienced opinion on a breaker vs a fuse. Specifically on the VR to battery connection. Seems like big dog original design of using circuit breaker only offers a one way protection IE battery Spike to VR is how it's wired, and doesn't offer any protection from being overcharged. Or am I missing something. Seems a fuse is a better choice here?
Fully understanding you got a high side switch in your EHC. This question is more geared towards overall electrical system.
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Axel
Active Member
Hi Eric,
Sorry, I have not read it correct due to my lousy englisch...
In my opinion is the fuse just a protection of the battery in case of fails of the VR. Sometimes a faulty VR makes a short circuit from the battery side to ground and a fuse will protect the cables to the battery against fire. A breaker also might work but is usually far slower. I have breakers from Carling in an other project in use and they need a pretty long time to switch off in case of over current. Just feel free to look at
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/65/C1005B from Thermal_Catalog-369668.pdf
You can see at page 2 that they need about 1 - 10 seconds to switch off when 300 % overload is happen. However, The fuse or the breaker will not protect the battery against overcharging.
All the best!
Axel
Sorry, I have not read it correct due to my lousy englisch...
In my opinion is the fuse just a protection of the battery in case of fails of the VR. Sometimes a faulty VR makes a short circuit from the battery side to ground and a fuse will protect the cables to the battery against fire. A breaker also might work but is usually far slower. I have breakers from Carling in an other project in use and they need a pretty long time to switch off in case of over current. Just feel free to look at
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/65/C1005B from Thermal_Catalog-369668.pdf
You can see at page 2 that they need about 1 - 10 seconds to switch off when 300 % overload is happen. However, The fuse or the breaker will not protect the battery against overcharging.
All the best!
Axel
I think the breaker is too slow agreed.
Now How come the fuse wouldn't protect against over charging as well?
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Ticey
Member
WooHoo!!! The Ridgeback is in MY garage finally!! Wiggled green wire going to celenoid, no dice. Tried starting with jump from truck, n even put battery in from the Victory, still no fire. Leaning ever closer to the EHC being my culprit. Still just a mechanical sounding click coming from top of front jug.
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Rottweiler
Well-Known Member
Ticey
Check out this web page it should help.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ng3saqa5a93gehp/AADK9gFSGaAG5oirsV17JO_Oa?dl=0
Axel
Active Member
Hi Eric,
I don´t know if the alternator can handle 30 Ampere if the VR will fail. The average current consumption of a bike is somewhere between 6 - 15 Ampere if the starter motor is not in use. If the charge current is in this case somewhere below 15 Ampere then the 30 Ampere fuse makes not much sense and the alternator will cook the battery. Maybe I´m wrong. What is your opinion?
All the best!
Axel
I don´t know if the alternator can handle 30 Ampere if the VR will fail. The average current consumption of a bike is somewhere between 6 - 15 Ampere if the starter motor is not in use. If the charge current is in this case somewhere below 15 Ampere then the 30 Ampere fuse makes not much sense and the alternator will cook the battery. Maybe I´m wrong. What is your opinion?
All the best!
Axel
francoblay1
The Spaniard
The Voltage Regulator on these engines are supposed to be Max 32Amps (some have installed a 40AMP).
So a stock Big Dog should put out MAX (14.4*32)=460.8Watts with a 40 AMP fuse you should bet MAX 576Watt Capactity. I guess the question becomes how does the Voltage Regulator actually FAIL? Does it provide >32 AMPS or does it provide >14.4 Volts. I guess if it fails and provides say 16v at 20 AMPS you are shit out of luck.
Regardless I would think the Fuse @ 40 AMP would provide you the Max 576Watt Capacity and thus if VR ever tried pushing out >40 AMPs you would be covered. Obviously nothing is too ideal here and can't my a full proof system.
Axel
Active Member
Hi Eric,
hm, the maximum VR current is more than I expected. I agree that there is no 100 % protection yet.
By the way, I have found self resettable fuses:
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RUEF090virtualkey65000000virtualkey650-RUEF090
I will test it for the constant power connection from my EHC58E to the EFI within the next weeks. We had measured an average current of somewhere below 0,5 Ampere when the EFI is in use. This fuse could be a better solution compare to an external current limiter board.
I have checked the schematics of the EFI and cabureted version. Almost every connection are the same in both versions. At the EFI version there are just added a few bridges between the 2 connectors and an additional constant power to the EFI. This should not affect the cabureted version if the unused pins at the bike connectors are not connected to ground. Why had BD made 2 different models? It should be possible without problems to make one version for cabureted and EFI bikes. I´ll try it out in a few weeks. I think it is good to have just one model what fit to all bikes between 2005 and 2008. It would cost me below 30 cent and will make life easier if it works. What is your opinion? Have you tried an EFI EHC in a cabureted bike?
All the best!
Axel
hm, the maximum VR current is more than I expected. I agree that there is no 100 % protection yet.
By the way, I have found self resettable fuses:
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RUEF090virtualkey65000000virtualkey650-RUEF090
I will test it for the constant power connection from my EHC58E to the EFI within the next weeks. We had measured an average current of somewhere below 0,5 Ampere when the EFI is in use. This fuse could be a better solution compare to an external current limiter board.
I have checked the schematics of the EFI and cabureted version. Almost every connection are the same in both versions. At the EFI version there are just added a few bridges between the 2 connectors and an additional constant power to the EFI. This should not affect the cabureted version if the unused pins at the bike connectors are not connected to ground. Why had BD made 2 different models? It should be possible without problems to make one version for cabureted and EFI bikes. I´ll try it out in a few weeks. I think it is good to have just one model what fit to all bikes between 2005 and 2008. It would cost me below 30 cent and will make life easier if it works. What is your opinion? Have you tried an EFI EHC in a cabureted bike?
All the best!
Axel
Last edited:
Agreed VR should regulate the current back and the breaker was there incase VR crapped and this is what I thought too.......BUT
The circuit breaker they use, the protection is on the post parked AUX. Well the VR is hooked up to the AUX and battery to BAT. Therefore circuit breaker are only one way protection it's not actually protecting it from over charging unless I'm forgetting something. Simply protecting the VR from a Battery short.
(Side note I reached out to the manufacturer it is only protected on AUX post, outgoing)
My questions are coming up because I just blew the doors off basically everything electrical in my bike and I'm seeing the design flaws. I will say some of them were due to a shop performing an inadequate install originally on the PDM before I bought the bike but just want to do the best I can to prevent any loses next time around.
Axle ! Looks like you got it!
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