SEAL-rider
Active Member
Not a bad idea to put some Seafoam in there and run it a bit before you flush it.
First time oil change
- Thread starter Steven Proctor
- Start date
Not a bad idea to put some Seafoam in there and run it a bit before you flush it.
Steven Proctor
Active Member
If I put the seafoam in with the bad oil still in, will it really do anything beneficial?
SEAL-rider
Active Member
The idea would be to get any heavy deposits into solution. You would not run it hard or for long. Do you do a lot of short trips where the engine does not get to full temp? That is one way condensation gets into the crankcase.
Steven Proctor
Active Member
Actually I haven't been able to ride it too much. I usually try to ride it for at least thirty min minimum. The humidity is pretty high in south GA. But there have been a few times where there hav been some short rides. I haven't been able to ride too much because I am in th Navy and just got back from sea. The last good ride I had was pretty much all day and then I got caught in the downpour. I was in it for about 20 to 30 min. It was a very hard rain. Most people just pulled over. My crankcase breather may have sucked in some water too. Once I got home, I had to park it and go back to sea for about a month. So now that I am back I wanted to do a good tune up and change all the fluids.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
A bottle of 1.5 Litres, coke or whatever, cut it to fit under the oil filter and to act as a funnel leading the oil to a pan on the floor...
if you cut it properly it will stay in place without having to hold it... remove the oil filter by hand (you have previously, loosened it a bit) then you fill the oil tank up (obviously you have already emptied the old oil), start the bike and watch the old/dirty oil coming out, it comes out very slowly at idle, I actually twist the throttle a bit up to 1500 rpm and then, once the clean oil starts coming out I shut the down the motor, place the clean/new oil filter and top up the oil tank to correct level.
If I was at home I could post a picture of it.
Then off you you go with a big smile
cdogg556
Guru
A bottle of 1.5 Litres, coke or whatever, cut it to fit under the oil filter and to act as a funnel leading the oil to a pan on the floor...
if you cut it properly it will stay in place without having to hold it... remove the oil filter by hand (you have previously, loosened it a bit) then you fill the oil tank up (obviously you have already emptied the old oil), start the bike and watch the old/dirty oil coming out, it comes out very slowly at idle, I actually twist the throttle a bit up to 1500 rpm and then, once the clean oil starts coming out I shut the down the motor, place the clean/new oil filter and top up the oil tank to correct level.
If I was at home I could post a picture of it.
Then off you you go with a big smile
X2..
Steven Proctor
Active Member
Took the bike out for about 20 minutes to get it fully warmed up. Got back home and checked the oil. It looks a lot better. Will do another oil change here in a few and try to get ALL the oil out. I did put some seafoam in it as well. I’ll let ya know how it turns out.
Do not remove that sump bolt. Why? Sump oil is going to blend with the new, but if you change the oil a lot? Get it? You tear and wear out the threads as it goes. That plug is bone dry. You need to walk away from it or start buying drain pans and carry one with you... wink-wink.
As mentioned, larger side oil pump gear makes more pressure. Oil from the tank has pressure (14.7) over the top of the oil and that is now up against the larger pump gear. That's instant pressure upon startup. No priming needed meaning. If you fill the oil filter with oil, it's that sooner to fill the cartridge so engine pressure starts faster.
Someone said to install a one-way valve at the breather. Here's some basic science, see if this makes sense. "For every action there is and equal and opposite ________ fill in the rest of the blank." For every piston on its way down, and to make it easy, use a one cylinder engine for the example. That's push pressure from the bottom of the piston and that air. There is added air pressure from the compression bleeding past the rings and the ring gaps. The piston stops @ BDC. And now you need to comprehend the air pressure at bottom dead center is 14.7 psi happening that fast in speed [pick the rpm]> You have vacuum about to occur as the piston begins to ascend to TDC.
Install one-way valve: One way the pressure is relieved. The 'for every' is now vacuum not pressure. You just locked the valve from the "For Every...!" LOL
Make sense?
As mentioned, larger side oil pump gear makes more pressure. Oil from the tank has pressure (14.7) over the top of the oil and that is now up against the larger pump gear. That's instant pressure upon startup. No priming needed meaning. If you fill the oil filter with oil, it's that sooner to fill the cartridge so engine pressure starts faster.
Someone said to install a one-way valve at the breather. Here's some basic science, see if this makes sense. "For every action there is and equal and opposite ________ fill in the rest of the blank." For every piston on its way down, and to make it easy, use a one cylinder engine for the example. That's push pressure from the bottom of the piston and that air. There is added air pressure from the compression bleeding past the rings and the ring gaps. The piston stops @ BDC. And now you need to comprehend the air pressure at bottom dead center is 14.7 psi happening that fast in speed [pick the rpm]> You have vacuum about to occur as the piston begins to ascend to TDC.
Install one-way valve: One way the pressure is relieved. The 'for every' is now vacuum not pressure. You just locked the valve from the "For Every...!" LOL
Make sense?
Steven Proctor
Active Member
Ok. All done. The plastic bottle did the trick on getting all the oil out. The oil came out much darker before there 2nd change. In the second pic, the pan is holding the oil from the change with seafoam added. The milky crap at the bottom settled and not near as much. Now nice clean oil through and through. Thanx for all the help, advice and education! I really appreciate it!
Steven Proctor
Active Member
I used dawn dish detergent. I let the housing and element drain for about 15 min while I was doing other stuff. Then I wiped a lot of the oil off with a rag. I then let it all soak in a small bucket with hot soapy water and clean d with a toothbrush. After a thorough rinse, I let it air dry. I had all day to myself so the soap deal wasn't too bad. I think that if I had less time I would use a solvent.
pknowles
RETIRED
Try a can of brake cleaner next time and then use compressed air to dry it .
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I have the K&P filter.
I think I used hot soapy water, brake cleaner or equivalent, and then followed by compressed air and drying prior to installation.
I could be wrong but my oil change is due so I'll have to read the instructions that came with the oil filter.
I think I used hot soapy water, brake cleaner or equivalent, and then followed by compressed air and drying prior to installation.
I could be wrong but my oil change is due so I'll have to read the instructions that came with the oil filter.
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Deathstar88
Active Member
So whats the procedure with the Scavenger on an 03 pitbull? Drain oil, take off oil filter, refill with oil, with scavenger screwed on, start bike, run bike till oil coming out of scavenger is clean, then turn bike off?
DynoDave
Guru
Yep!
Deathstar88
Active Member
How much extra Oil should I have to Scavenge the Old oil out completely? I would imagine you have to keep the oil full when running bike with the Scavenger on. also....What is the correct model number on the Scavenger unit for my 107?
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