I need a big dog mechanic in western Washington.

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
While I’m sitting here on the curb waiting for help I thought I’d explain what’s happening. This is the second time the bike has died and refused to start. Both times it was a hot and both times I had been driving slow. The first time the bike died at a stoplight. This time it was after I put gas in it, it would not restart. Both times with the key on run I have no electrical at all. No lights no dash no start. With the key on accessory, I have dash lights only. After the first time It did this, I took the bike to Rottweiler Motorcycle in Company in Bremerton, Washington. They replaced the battery and did a 50 point inspection; the bike started right up. Two weeks later, same problem. At this point, I think the bike has to be completely torn down and rebuilt. Seeing as I am a kiss man (keep it simple stupid) I’m thinking of going with bare-bones wiring. If I could just get someone to CNC some aluminum billet into larger face plates for the controls to accept Harley switches… I could keep my controls and handlebars.
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
While I’m sitting here on the curb waiting for help I thought I’d explain what’s happening. This is the second time the bike has died and refused to start. Both times it was a hot and both times I had been driving slow. The first time the bike died at a stoplight. This time it was after I put gas in it, it would not restart. Both times with the key on run I have no electrical at all. No lights no dash no start. With the key on accessory, I have dash lights only. After the first time It did this, I took the bike to Rottweiler Motorcycle in Company in Bremerton, Washington. They replaced the battery and did a 50 point inspection; the bike started right up. Two weeks later, same problem. At this point, I think the bike has to be completely torn down and rebuilt. Seeing as I am a kiss man (keep it simple stupid) I’m thinking of going with bare-bones wiring. If I could just get someone to CNC some aluminum billet into larger face plates for the controls to accept Harley switches… I could keep my controls and handlebars.
Wow. Sorry to hear that happened again. I would check all the wires to make sure you don’t have a short somewhere. It may be the starter. I had a 65’ impala that would pull that crap every now and again. Drove me nuts. Had to replace the starter 4 times before I got one that resolved the issue. Could be the ignition switch being faulty. Maybe your handlebar controls. Start/stop switch warn out? Headlight short? When you turn the key or press the start/stop button, do you hear a click? Just a few ideas.
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
I took the bike back to the shop last Friday. They said the brand new battery has a bad cell just like the last battery. Six days later, they still haven’t found a new battery for it. They said they would put in a new battery and warm the bike up and try to duplicate the problem I’m having. So, I’m putting a new rear brake on the sporty so I can make the Olympic loop ride starting this Sunday. It’s going to be in the 80s along the coast so I have to make this run. Finally figured out how to jack the bike up without the motorcycle jack I should’ve bought months (years) ago.IMG_0167.jpeg
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
thanks Mr. Wright. I told him about the Deka. Apparently they are smarter than me and insist on the interstate. I’m just a customer. I got a Deka rebrand at the local O’Reillys on the spot four months ago. I don’t know what the problem is. The drag specialties I had on it was the best battery I ever tested. Two batteries in two weeks with a bad cell. I think it’s something else. Anyway, they’re going to get the new interstate and try to reproduce the problem. I’m over it. Taking the sporty on my trip. 400 miles on a sporty takes me a couple days to recover from. This will be my third year doing the trip on the sporty. It’ll be fun, but I sure was looking forward to taking the chopper. I think that rotor stater heats up on the chopper and fries the battery on a hot day when I’m going slow. But hey, I’m just a backyard Joe.
 

KnotSo

Admin
Staff member
We used to have a level 4 Bigdog Factory Trained mechanic named Thomas in Mount Vernon, WA. at Lifestyles Honda . Yeah I know but back in the day is was called Steel Dreams and they sold mostly Big Dogs, Hellbound and all the better customs, then the market dropped.... May still have one of the best V Twin and BDM techs around. Works quick, done right the first time and well worth the drive. Have not been up there in some time, not sure if Thomas is still there, has his own shop or is retired. Call first.
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
Thanks for the tip knotso. I just sent an email to lifestyles. My 86 year old neighbor is a former Goldwing rider and has been suggesting Honda for months.
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
FYI. It took three weeks to get the new Interstate battery. The tech said the upper motor mount bolt and spacer were missing and the two head mount bolts were loose. He believed this was causing the engine to shake enough to destroy the batteries. He replaced the missing bolt with a phosphate bolt and made a new spacer out of steel. Curtis has the replacement bolt in chrome, but not the spacer. Does anyone know where I can get the spacer in chrome? Anyway, the new battery was installed and I picked up the bike after three weeks in the shop. I rode it just over 300 miles in two days and it went dark again. This time while driving 70 in the middle of BFE. I will be getting a deka battery this time, however three batteries shaking a cell loose in two months is highly unusual. Could my total performance rocker boxes be aligned so badly as to cause a shake like this? My kiss (keep it simple stupid) philosophy is wearing thin. Any advice will be welcome oh wisemen. Phosphate bolt and new spacer below.IMG_0190.jpeg
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
First, you better start learning to fix your own Big Dog. Second, my hardware store sells chrome bolts, nuts and spacers so try looking around or try Amazon
 

chubs

Guru
Your ride, Your wallet. Get whatever battery you want, but I personally would go with one from East Penn Mfg.. They make the
Deka, Duracell, and a few more "brands" in the same plant and, in my opinion, they are all great batteries.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
FYI. It took three weeks to get the new Interstate battery. The tech said the upper motor mount bolt and spacer were missing and the two head mount bolts were loose. He believed this was causing the engine to shake enough to destroy the batteries. He replaced the missing bolt with a phosphate bolt and made a new spacer out of steel. Curtis has the replacement bolt in chrome, but not the spacer. Does anyone know where I can get the spacer in chrome? Anyway, the new battery was installed and I picked up the bike after three weeks in the shop. I rode it just over 300 miles in two days and it went dark again. This time while driving 70 in the middle of BFE. I will be getting a deka battery this time, however three batteries shaking a cell loose in two months is highly unusual. Could my total performance rocker boxes be aligned so badly as to cause a shake like this? My kiss (keep it simple stupid) philosophy is wearing thin. Any advice will be welcome oh wisemen. Phosphate bolt and new spacer below.View attachment 119095
The TP rocker boxes wouldn't have anything to do with that. Is your battery strap in good shape? Also, there should be a foam cushion between the battery and whatever it's strapped against. I'm not sure about the chopper, but on my pitbull, the cushion goes between the battery and a crossmember of the frame.
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
I have been working on my big dog since the day I bought it. The problem is I don’t have enough experience to know what’s wrong with it and neither does my mechanic. I am getting a deka battery and will carry the interstate as a spare. As far as I can, tell my 05 big dog chopper never had a battery strap and I haven’t found a place for one. It’s in there pretty tight and has foam on the bottom and the back. The only place I have found that has the proper chrome cap bolt is through Curtis. Still looking for the spacer I think it might’ve been aluminum. Thank you for the advice guys.
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
This is the latest from the tech at Rottweiler Motorcycle Company…“Scott's bike has destroyed a 3rd battery. This time, adding a good battery doesn't fire the bike up. After some tests, I have found power going into the ECM, but nothing coming out. I think at this point, we need to look at the upgraded components. It seemed like the excessive vibration was the issue due to all components passing tests, now it seems like it must have an intermittent power surge or over charge. We will quote an upgraded charging system, EHC retrofit kit, Big Dog backbone harness, and the Deka battery.” I am pretty sure that estimate is going to be outside my budget since I am currently paying for my daughters second divorce. The fantasy is that I will get my money back when my daughters house sells. If that works out, my second fantasy might be to take Mr. Wright up on his offer to fly out here.
 

Jusme

‘05 BDMC
I just got the estimate. $1800 in parts and $1600 labor for a total of $3400. That does not include the total performance rocker alignment or a new starter. Both of which will need to be addressed at some point. That price does include a refund on the Interstate battery.
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Supporting Member
Ouch....so to put in a new harness, ehc and stator is 1600 in labor? They must be at 100+ an hour on labor
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
I know that the bike shop that Jusme and I use around here; Rottweiler does use WSW and Kingpin. When I took my bike in for the tires and some other questions they mentioned the by name and orders some of the parts I needed from Curtis.
 
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