keep blowing ingnition module

[Snuffy]

I would say most of your troubles are from that battery. If you are still having problems after you get the right battery and install the fuse I would look for a short in the tack ring wires. Then if needed you can find and fix what you screwed up with the wrong battery

 

[Sven]

I don't know but, can't be a kit going brick so many times, but more being shot by itself, and the bullet being to ground itself.

I'd have a temp gun aimed at the ECM. Then a quick shot at the battery's ground cable ends. In fact, I'd install the cooked ECM and see if it heats up the cable ends... worth a hit.

 

[Sven]

The IC (integrated chip) is hooked up to the leg of the chip and is limited to a range of 12 to 19V. Key on is only 12.8v going in. Even if 16v goes in, hard parts would not burn out yet. Thus the thinking of fresh metal to metal on a 20 some odd year old growing a non-flow to the frame/engine. Again, thinking out this self eating itself.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

its a 2005 pitbull do you know what the voltage should be from the VR to the ignition module

14.0-14.5vdc, if it's over 14.5 it will overcharge and cause problems.
Your bike comes stock with a 40 amp Circuit breaker to protect the battery from an overcurrent from the VR but the EHC is not protected. The additional fuse suggested by Mick needs to be between the +battery and the EHC for the additional protection. I run 20amp breaker to my EHC.
The power to your ign module comes from the EHC not the battery. If your problem was being caused by the charging system my guess would be your EHC would have fried before the Ign module.
I think it is prudent to replace the battery with the Deka AGM just because the lithium type seem to have lot's of bad outcomes (not sure why). Next I would protect the EHC with the fuse. Then check the wiring as Savage 1 suggested especially the tach wires. You replaced the tach ring for a reason and it could be that issue still exists (maybe a short) and now is making the ign module fail. Even if you don't see anything wrong ,when you get the new module I would first run the bike without the tach ring attached . Expensive way to troubleshoot but if you can't read or see any wiring problem prior at least it will help you isolate.

 

[Savage 1]

One thing is certain, the power for the ignition module is provided by the controller in the ecm. The signal is generated by the tach and runs through the ecm.

Therefore, theoretically the problem should be found between the ecm and the ignition module via voltage and current testing at the ignition module.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

have replaced ingnition module three times runs for about 20 miles and then red light go"s out and won"t start someone told me i need to replace my charging system because the system is surging to meany volts i did replace the tachring because the tach wood not light up plus im running a lipo battery didn"t start acting up till i replaced the battery and the tach ring

Just reread this post. Curious , which red light are you talking about? The ignition module red light on the module itself only comes on after you hit the run button. Be cautious, it's easy to get fooled by these Big Dogs

 

[Mickmorris]

Just reread this post. Curious , which red light are you talking about? The ignition module red light on the module itself only comes on after you hit the run button. Be cautious, it's easy to get fooled by these Big Dogs

Should be flashing/blinking though when running?

 

[Mickmorris]

One thing is certain, the power for the ignition module is provided by the controller in the ecm. The signal is generated by the tach and runs through the ecm.

Therefore, theoretically the problem should be found between the ecm and the ignition module via voltage and current testing at the ignition module.

Totally agree. He needs to remove the tach from the equation prior to firing up the bike again. Test one part at a time…and his problem will show itself.