NO TRANMISSION OIL IN BIKE !

Energy One
mask

mask

knuckle dragger
Bobby Schulz said:
You need to see if you have any movement in the transmission input shaft...Any movement and it has a bearing going bad and needs to be rebuilt or this problem will come back. The shaft will wobble under load and destroy the new seal in some cases and in others it will just let the oil go past one side or the other. Make sure you check it. If you need a rebuild etc let me know and i can help... You may also have the dreaded 4th gear slip that is caused by the bearings going bad.
Click to expand...
If that is the shaft in the picture, I have movement. does the entire transmission need rebuilding or just the bearings in the imput shaft?
 
Bobby Schulz

Bobby Schulz

Active Member
In that pic you are looking at the bearing/button that the rod goes against to release the clutch when you pull the clutch lever in.
You would need to pull the clutch assy off the bike to get the best feel for any movement. But if you squeeze the primary cain together hard by hand to see if the entire clutch assy has any movement. Sometimes its hard this way and I suggest to remove the clutch/carrier assy down to the point you just have the input shaft left.

Lossen the chain tensioner and take the 4 bolts out you can see in the pic near you fingers and then you will see the center nut. Take it off with a strong impact gun (reverse thread). Then you will also need the engine nut removed (normal thread). Ath this point you can take the clutch assy,chan, and sprockets off. You will be able to check it properly at this point.
Yes if there is any play on the shaft the trans will need to be removed and the transmission rebuilt. I just rebuilt Postmans trans for slipping in 4th gear.
So if you need any help let me know.
 
mask

mask

knuckle dragger
Bobby Schulz said:
In that pic you are looking at the bearing/button that the rod goes against to release the clutch when you pull the clutch lever in.
You would need to pull the clutch assy off the bike to get the best feel for any movement. But if you squeeze the primary cain together hard by hand to see if the entire clutch assy has any movement. Sometimes its hard this way and I suggest to remove the clutch/carrier assy down to the point you just have the input shaft left.

Lossen the chain tensioner and take the 4 bolts out you can see in the pic near you fingers and then you will see the center nut. Take it off with a strong impact gun (reverse thread). Then you will also need the engine nut removed (normal thread). Ath this point you can take the clutch assy,chan, and sprockets off. You will be able to check it properly at this point.
Yes if there is any play on the shaft the trans will need to be removed and the transmission rebuilt. I just rebuilt Postmans trans for slipping in 4th gear.
So if you need any help let me know.
Click to expand...
ok thanks i will get started and contact you for the rebuild if i need one
 
mask

mask

knuckle dragger
ok I probably made a mistake but I took out the clutch pack before attempting to take out the clutch nut with the impact wrench. the chain just turns along with the wheel do I need a bigger impact wrench ? the one i just bought from lowes has 250lbs torque.
 
jimizee028

jimizee028

TRUE COLORS COLLISION
My seals went up along with bearings in the trans and I had absolutely no fluid in the trans,got sucked into the primary......
 
mask

mask

knuckle dragger
Bobby Schulz said:
Put it in gear......and you may need a bigger impact.
Click to expand...
ok I will go get a bigger impact but i put in gear and the rear tire rolls when i try to take off the flanged hub screw or the clutch nut. I looked at the shop manual after i started. do I have to reinstall the clutch pack to prevent the rear wheel from spinning?
 
mask

mask

knuckle dragger
Ok, I removed both the clutch nut and the engine nut and removed the chain, engine sprocket and the clutch assembly. I inspected the gear teeth and they all seem to be in good shape. I also inspected the main shaft and was not able tomove it side to side or up and down, I was able to turn it about half in but that seemed a natural movement. am I looking at the right things and should i look for something else?


P.S
I followed instructions from the shop manual to remove these components and the instructions said to remove "the throw out bearing retaining ring and discard" should I order a replacement? or reuse the same one? The manual does not address that on the reasssembly?

thanks
 
mask

mask

knuckle dragger
Upon further inspection and reading prior threads, i found out that the clutch carrier is rubbing against the inner primary. The rub was not that bad there was probably a two or so inch mark on the inner primary from the carrier. I also observed that the gear teeth that come in contact with the starter shaft are a little worn down. I just called baker and got a quote for a new clutch assembly and I looked at the bandit website as well. Here is my question, is my clutch usable till winter as is or do I have to get a new one right away?
 

Attachments

Bobby Schulz

Bobby Schulz

Active Member
I have a starter ring gear in good shape I can sell on the cheap if you want it just let me know... Also after you remove the trans input shaft seal did you see a little spacer washer that sits against the bearing??? The rubbing you get on the back of the clutch carrier and the inner primary case can be caused by not having his .050 spacer.
I have one of those as well if needed.:up:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top