107 top end rebuild.

[Olde Man]

I removed the Jugs because the whole reason I took bike apart was to replace head gaskets and base gaskets. And plan to clean the motor up good.

How cheap to deck heads? Ruffly? Also how much do I need to have them decked? Not sure I can get into a machine shop quickly but worth a call or 2 I guess. I already have the big valves and springs. I do know, I still want the bike reliable and on 93 octane.

I would remove the decking material from the bottom of the cylinders not the heads. This will inprove the quench. I would put a jug back on with the base gasket and measure how far the piston is down in the hole. The pistons rock in the bore so measure at the wrist pin or average the difference caused by the rock of the piston in the bore. If you cut this amount off the jugs the head gasket thichness will be your clearance with 0 deck height. Check for wear in the cylinder and not above were the rings ride, If there is a lip the top ring will not like that. It has been a15 years since I did mine so my I am shooting from the hip on this. I think it was .045 to .055 and a 10.5 to 1 calculated compression ratio. Maybe John Sachs will comment on this. If not give him a call.

 

[Jwooky]

I removed the Jugs because the whole reason I took bike apart was to replace head gaskets and base gaskets. And plan to clean the motor up good.

How cheap to deck heads? Ruffly? Also how much do I need to have them decked? Not sure I can get into a machine shop quickly but worth a call or 2 I guess. I already have the big valves and springs. I do know, I still want the bike reliable and on 93 octane.

Ah ok, missed that part.

Check with @john sachs on the decking.

 

[mittens]

Today I installed the new .600 cam. Installed with new gasket with factory 0.070 thrust washer first. Had 0.015 gap at cam / washer. Then removed again, installed 0.075 thrust washer with another new gasket. (Curtis was dead on it needing this but told me try stock before swapping). This tightened the gap up to 0.007. Washers move free but cam is not sliding back & forth. Good fit now. 120inch lbs & blue locker on all threads. Polished up the tappet blocks & bolts. Blue thread locker, assembly lube on lifters & cam as well. Got that side of the block cleaner too. So cam swap is complete. Will be sanding the jugs (600-800-100) & polishing next, then can set them down on pistons. Then on to the heads.
Was a little confused at first on the yellow mark on crank vs the small grove for timing but got that worked out. Pic included showing timing marks aligned with breather gear & crank. Also don't forget your metal spacer on breather. Spacer not shown in pic, but was installed right before cover installed.

 

[Olde Man]

Cometic inc. makes some thinner head and Jug base gaskets. You can pick up about about 1/2 of the desired compression you are looking for by making that change. I think there are some differences in the way you torque the heads when you use the thin Cometic gaskets.

 

[mittens]

Well finished the jugs. Installed cam sensor, & polished & installed timing cover. Started breaking down heads for new valve seals, clean valves & give same treatment I did to jugs. Here is what I got out of the ruff cast factory jugs. Not perfect but I think they look a hell of a lot better than how they started. Should dress motor up a good bit between all that chrome.

 

[JohnBoy]

Check the valve guides for out of round while you have the heads apart. Use a telescoping gauge may save you a later teardown.

 

[mittens]

Yesterday I was only out there for a bit. Did clock both pistons / rings. Then put new base gaskets on, & jugs back over pistons. Now motor is little more sealed up. I need to clean the case on the left side like I did the right side next.

Broke down the heads/ valves / springs. Cleaned up all 4 valves. Now to remove the old seals, & sand/ polish the heads. I am not aware of a valve guild issue unless TP rockers are used?

 

[Mickmorris]

Yesterday I was only out there for a bit. Did clock both pistons / rings. Then put new base gaskets on, & jugs back over pistons. Now motor is little more sealed up. I need to clean the case on the left side like I did the right side next.

Broke down the heads/ valves / springs. Cleaned up all 4 valves. Now to remove the old seals, & sand/ polish the heads. I am not aware of a valve guild issue unless TP rockers are used?
View attachment 121052View attachment 121053View attachment 121054

Fantastic work! Looks like brand new!

 

[Olde Man]

Fantastic work! Looks like brand new!

Do you have a photo of the end of the valve stems showing the wear marks?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Yesterday I was only out there for a bit. Did clock both pistons / rings. Then put new base gaskets on, & jugs back over pistons. Now motor is little more sealed up. I need to clean the case on the left side like I did the right side next.

Broke down the heads/ valves / springs. Cleaned up all 4 valves. Now to remove the old seals, & sand/ polish the heads. I am not aware of a valve guild issue unless TP rockers are used?
View attachment 121052View attachment 121053View attachment 121054

Ah, in the shop in flip-flops -- I can hear the cursing from here when the shit hits the floor and toes!

 

[Mickmorris]

Gonna build one of these.

 

[mittens]

Flip FLops are my daily. lots and lots of shop work in them.

As I said, I have one of those and used it too. But the wheels work fast and can get in there too. The sanding is the hard n part not the polishing.

 

[mittens]

Been busy with Christmas & stuff. But yesterday worked on the rear head. It's all broke apart, valves, seats, springs, retainers, seals all removed. So started the same process I used on jugs. Red scotch to grind the ruff cast off to smooth scratched AL, then 400-600-800-1000 with Dremel tool, then 1000 & 1500 by hand on outer fins. Then mothers & dremel for polish, then buffing wheel to brighten. I need to use a tooth brush to clean the left over polish out of the S&S logos still. But here is a pic of head sitting on jug for good measure. While its not perfect, i think it will really help the over all look of the bike/ motor once all back together with the Chrome rocker boxes, Ignition cover, and stuff.

Tomorrow I will try & knock out the front head. I already scotched it so just dremel work & polishing left. Will then lap the valves for good measure, install new valve seals, & put seats, springs, & retainers back in... then it's just polishing intake manifold & carb.. bolt it back together & see how the cam works.

Also while polishing carb. Plan to pull apart & see what jets I have been running & will then order a few so if I need to make a change with new cam I have them. Seems like can pretty easily guess what the 107 & 600 likes. Pic of head sitting on jug

 

[Jersey James]

A suggestion: anytime you want to remove aluminum polish from areas that have letters. What works for me is "cotton balls". After the last polishing cloth, use a cotton ball to remove all the old polish, and bring out a brilliant shine.

 

[mittens]

Awesome thanks will try it!

 

[mittens]

Got front head sanded & polished today. Also re-lapped valves. Installed new valve seals & then installed the seats, springs, & retainers. Also new compression release rubber boots.
So they are sitting ready for clean head bolts & torquing down. Then can work on polishing manifold, & carb. Install rocker boxes & pushrods. I think it will help a lot once all the chrome rockers. Intake, & ifnition covers all trap the motor in.

Someone asked about the valve wear. Here is a close up of the valves. They are tight in guides. No wobbles.

 

[mittens]

Today was productive.
got both heads torqued down. Cleaned & polished intake manifold (it was ruff). Installed it with new gaskets, & mounted carb & intake to center it so it's all torqued down with it aligned. Then removed it to leave mounted intake. Cleaned & installed both rocker boxes, new gaskets. Cleaned & new o rings for pushrod tubes as well. Installed pushrods, torqued boxes & rockers down, all with assembly lube. Then adjusted pushrods. Finger tight then 4 rotations/ 24 flats. 10 min later they had bleed down. So locked them down. Guess I don't have limit restrictors installed in lifters. Then torqued down rocker box covers. Whipped it all down.
Tomorrow will clean & polish carb. It currently has a 74 main jet & a 33 intermediate. Time will tell what I have to change to with new cam.

 

[Mickmorris]

Today was productive.
got both heads torqued down. Cleaned & polished intake manifold (it was ruff). Installed it with new gaskets, & mounted carb & intake to center it so it's all torqued down with it aligned. Then removed it to leave mounted intake. Cleaned & installed both rocker boxes, new gaskets. Cleaned & new o rings for pushrod tubes as well. Installed pushrods, torqued boxes & rockers down, all with assembly lube. Then adjusted pushrods. Finger tight then 4 rotations/ 24 flats. 10 min later they had bleed down. So locked them down. Guess I don't have limit restrictors installed in lifters. Then torqued down rocker box covers. Whipped it all down.
Tomorrow will clean & polish carb. It currently has a 74 main jet & a 33 intermediate. Time will tell what I have to change to with new cam. View attachment 121155View attachment 121156View attachment 121157View attachment 121158

Fantastic!

 

[Rottweiler]

Looking great

 

[Jwooky]

Nice work, looking fantastic.