Low idle. K-9, injector

[Roaming Wolf]

Hi
Big Dog K-9 2018, 5,000 miles only. While I was riding today the red light came on again. It is riding fine when I twist the throttle, however it is very low on idle to the point that it stalls. When idling the RPM is about 600-700. The lights of the speedometer are blinking like a Christmas tree. Connected to the computer. It showed O2 sensors. Switched off, started again. Worked OK for a couple of minutes util I twisted the throttle. Showed a bunch of mistakes then, mostly related to air temperature.
O2 sensors are new, gas pump is new, ignition coil is new, spark plugs and spark wires are new. Both rocker cover gaskets are new, clutch set is new, right shock started leaking, changed the repair kit. New battery, new voltage regulator. I use it only 2-3 days a week for a light ride as I have my old and reliable FXDWG.
Anyone has any idea what might be wrong?
This bike really pisses off. The quality is shit. I do get that it is a sensor problem and Big Dog do not produce them, just put everything together, but why is it always happening to this bike. My other 2 Harleys 2012 and 2020 have never ever given me such a pin in the ass, and they are using the same sensors I believe.

 

[Rottweiler]

Your idle sounds like it is set to low.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Hi
Big Dog K-9 2018, 5,000 miles only. While I was riding today the red light came on again. It is riding fine when I twist the throttle, however it is very low on idle to the point that it stalls. When idling the RPM is about 600-700. The lights of the speedometer are blinking like a Christmas tree. Connected to the computer. It showed O2 sensors. Switched off, started again. Worked OK for a couple of minutes util I twisted the throttle. Showed a bunch of mistakes then, mostly related to air temperature.
O2 sensors are new, gas pump is new, ignition coil is new, spark plugs and spark wires are new. Both rocker cover gaskets are new, clutch set is new, right shock started leaking, changed the repair kit. New battery, new voltage regulator. I use it only 2-3 days a week for a light ride as I have my old and reliable FXDWG.
Anyone has any idea what might be wrong?
This bike really pisses off. The quality is shit. I do get that it is a sensor problem and Big Dog do not produce them, just put everything together, but why is it always happening to this bike. My other 2 Harleys 2012 and 2020 have never ever given me such a pin in the ass, and they are using the same sensors I believe.

What errors does it throw in protune.
Have you checked your idle/throttle cables from the handlebars aren't mis-adjusted.
Have you checked your plugs? For an EFI bike I prefer E3-36 plugs -- Have much less trouble with the efi since I went to them.
Check and clean the IAT sensor
What octane gas are you using? EFI will try to work with just about everything but you can go too far with a stock vfi.

We need more details to help you.

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Protune gave both rear and front O2 sensors inactive first. I know they are brand new and I fixed them well and cleaned all both plugs before. I started the bike after a couple of hours. No mistakes in protune, shows green. The bike is not working the way it should, though it is responsive to the throttle. I removed the air cleaner and all 4 sensors. There is a lot of grease inside and the step motor was covered in oil. I checked the oil level it is is at least an inch above the max mark. I had asked the mechanic that was changing the oil and he said that it was fine as I have to check the level when the bike is straight, however, the manual says it has to be on the stand and the oil has just to cover the bottom hole. The spark pugs are brand new: Champion Copper Plus.
Question: How can I check these sensors? How can I clean them?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Protune gave both rear and front O2 sensors inactive first. I know they are brand new and I fixed them well and cleaned all both plugs before. I started the bike after a couple of hours. No mistakes in protune, shows green. The bike is not working the way it should, though it is responsive to the throttle. I removed the air cleaner and all 4 sensors. There is a lot of grease inside and the step motor was covered in oil. I checked the oil level it is is at least an inch above the max mark. I had asked the mechanic that was changing the oil and he said that it was fine as I have to check the level when the bike is straight, however, the manual says it has to be on the stand and the oil has just to cover the bottom hole. The spark pugs are brand new: Champion Copper Plus.
Question: How can I check these sensors? How can I clean them?

You have TOO much oil in that bike and is likely your base issue.
Use a turkey baster to remove oil easily or drain and re-fill.
IAT sensor (spray sensor only -- do not try to wipe dry, let air dry) and MAP sensor need to be cleaned. Mass Air Flow cleaner willl work (by CRC)
There are notes on here somewhere I believe about how to clean (or in the manual)
Also clean the IAC, (spray and q-tip is what I used.)
You might need to do the cleaning twice after you get all the excessoil out of tank and blown out of where it doesn't really belong.

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Thank you!
Got a syringe and a tube. Will be sucking out the excess of oil today. I did wipe the IAT gently with a tissue. Hope it will still work. Ordered a new one anyway. I also disassembled the idle air control valve. It had a lot of grease on it. Hope it will calibrate itself. I checked the sensors online. Will a Harley MAP work on V124 S&S? They look identical. The price is very different though. The idle air control is very similar to Harley's as well.

 

[Roaming Wolf]

I checked the oil level and found out that the oil is gone. It is slightly above the first mark on the dip stick. I examined the bike and noticed that the oil cooler is leaking from the top where the temperature gage is. Could this have been caused by the excess oil? Does anyone know if the oil cooler is fixable? It looks like Pro-performance one.

 

[Rottweiler]

Is it cracked or just leaking at the threads. If it's just the threads put a couple raps of white plumbing tape on them.

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Just checked. I guess it comes from the temperature gage. However, there is on leaking oil line as well. Surprisingly, thee are no oil spots under the bike, which suggests that the leak happens only when the bike is running.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Just checked. I guess it comes from the temperature gage. However, there is on leaking oil line as well. Surprisingly, thee are no oil spots under the bike, which suggests that the leak happens only when the bike is running.

The oil pressure on an EVO motor isn't high enough to pop the temp gauge out even with excess oil.
You can buy a replacement temperature gauge from Pro performance and replace it if needed. (not sure how hard that is too do though)
I'd pull the lines off and clean the,m well and then reconnect and make sure all is tight a nd see if that eliminates the leak. If its leaking from the top watch that oil isn't running down and getting on the lines sending you down a false path.
I would also check the rocker box gaskets and see if oil is blowing out from there (which would/could land on the oil cooler)

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Just checked. I guess it comes from the temperature gage. However, there is on leaking oil line as well. Surprisingly, thee are no oil spots under the bike, which suggests that the leak happens only when the bike is running.

The oil pressure on an EVO motor isn't high enough to pop the temp gauge out even with excess oil.
You can buy a replacement temperature gauge from Pro performance and replace it if needed. (not sure how hard that is too do though)
I'd pull the lines off and clean the,m well and then reconnect and make sure all is tight a nd see if that eliminates the leak. If its leaking from the top watch that oil isn't running down and getting on the lines sending you down a false path.
I would also check the rocker box gaskets and see if oil is blowing out from there (which would/could land on the oil cooler)

Thank you. I also thought that the pump won’t be able to generate that much pressure. Rocker gaskets are new as well, I got a leak on the fron cylinder, so I changed both. The idle is still unsolved though. Not sure if the Harley icv fits. Ordered a Chinese analogue of the original one. If this solves the issue, will replace with an S&S later.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Try this as a silly test -- go grab a pair of e3-36plugs and see what the bike does. I've found them to be the best plug for my efi bike especially when I had an 02 sensor issue.
I would also reset the EHC
Power up bike hit run
power down bike
wait 15-20 secs and power up again and hit run.

this process clears the EHC settings.
The next step after that is to look at protune and see if your EHC is locked or not
Then reload the box file for the bike with unlocked or locked (You're stuck on locked if the efi is already locked)

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Thank you!
Will try when I get a new ICV. It’s getting more fun now. Unfortunately there is no decent mechanic over here, so I am learning by doing.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Was anything else done or happen to the bike just before this happened?
Battery die/change etc
gas up an unusual station (bad gas) -- try HEET if you suspect this.

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Was anything else done or happen to the bike just before this happened?
Battery die/change etc
gas up an unusual station (bad gas) -- try HEET if you suspect this.

I changed the battery to antigravity. It works much better than a normal one. A voltage regulator had ben changed before.
Just a month ago I noticed that when I cold start the bike the idle was not stable. It would happen within one minute of idling. The RPM would start to fluctuate, going very low to the point that the bike would stall. I had to restart the bike then adding some throttle. When it reached the working temperature the RPM would level off.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I changed the battery to antigravity. It works much better than a normal one. A voltage regulator had ben changed before.
Just a month ago I noticed that when I cold start the bike the idle was not stable. It would happen within one minute of idling. The RPM would start to fluctuate, going very low to the point that the bike would stall. I had to restart the bike then adding some throttle. When it reached the working temperature the RPM would level off.

RESET the EHC and reload the box file to the EFI
A fluctuating battery can corrupt the memory on the devices.
Be sure to use an unlocked box file if you vfi is already unlocked. (Full version of Protune from S&S will tell you -- BDM distributed version does not give a good indication)
I had a similar problem a while back when I had some battery issues and took me a couple of tries to remember to do this -- all is fine since!

 

[Roaming Wolf]

Yesterday I got ICV. Not original. A Chinese analogue. Way cheaper than S&S and I wanted to make sure that it was the reason. The problem has been solved. I will order the original S&S then.
Regarding the Reseting Adaptive Maps. I see this function in Pro Tune. Not sure if I have to reload any file then. Tried to find it in the directory specifically for my engine - V124. It doesn't seem to have it.

Air Idle Control Valve Solenoid 228W8569S | eBay

Let's work together to get win-win! hope we can understand each other.

www.ebay.com

The link to the ICV

 

[HMAN]

Yesterday I got ICV. Not original. A Chinese analogue. Way cheaper than S&S and I wanted to make sure that it was the reason. The problem has been solved. I will order the original S&S then.
Regarding the Reseting Adaptive Maps. I see this function in Pro Tune. Not sure if I have to reload any file then. Tried to find it in the directory specifically for my engine - V124. It doesn't seem to have it.

Air Idle Control Valve Solenoid 228W8569S | eBay

Let's work together to get win-win! hope we can understand each other.

www.ebay.com

The link to the ICV

Glad you got it figured out. Git er fixed n ride hard!

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

RESET the EHC and reload the box file to the EFI
A fluctuating battery can corrupt the memory on the devices.
Be sure to use an unlocked box file if you vfi is already unlocked. (Full version of Protune from S&S will tell you -- BDM distributed version does not give a good indication)
I had a similar problem a while back when I had some battery issues and took me a couple of tries to remember to do this -- all is fine since!

I'd reset the MAP first (easy to do) power on,hit run, power off -wait 20 seconds, power on again.
It might take more than one try.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

RESET the EHC and reload the box file to the EFI
A fluctuating battery can corrupt the memory on the devices.
Be sure to use an unlocked box file if you vfi is already unlocked. (Full version of Protune from S&S will tell you -- BDM distributed version does not give a good indication)
I had a similar problem a while back when I had some battery issues and took me a couple of tries to remember to do this -- all is fine since!

this should have read -- reset the VFI and relaod box file if needed.