HEARING SPINNING SOUND FROM POSS. TRANS.

[BikersDream]

while you were in the primary, did you check to see if the nut that holds the clutch pack/basket was tight? this nut is on the other end of the clutch rod that you adjust on the exhaust side of the bike. if it is not properly torqued to 150ftlb with red loctite, (some of the bikes got out of the factory without loctite) the nut will back off. this is what i was referring to earlier. there was a factory service bulletin regarding this very situation. if you did this, please disregard this message.

Maybe its time to inspect the gear set. It’s not that hard. Disconnect the battery, Remove the side covers, unplug the neutral light switch, remove the 6 bolts on top cover and a good flash light to inspect the gears. Look for abnormal wear patterns on the gear, could lead to a tooth knocked off.

You have checked the upper motor mount and motor bolts? The upper comes loose often I have found.

 

[phatchopper300]

while you were in the primary, did you check to see if the nut that holds the clutch pack/basket was tight? this nut is on the other end of the clutch rod that you adjust on the exhaust side of the bike. if it is not properly torqued to 150ftlb with red loctite, (some of the bikes got out of the factory without loctite) the nut will back off. this is what i was referring to earlier. there was a factory service bulletin regarding this very situation. if you did this, please disregard this message.

I did that even took it for a spin and came back and it is still very tight? Gear noise seems to be in the higher gears from what i did on the test ride about 2 miles!

 

[phatchopper300]

Maybe its time to inspect the gear set. It’s not that hard. Disconnect the battery, Remove the side covers, unplug the neutral light switch, remove the 6 bolts on top cover and a good flash light to inspect the gears. Look for abnormal wear patterns on the gear, could lead to a tooth knocked off.

You have checked the upper motor mount and motor bolts? The upper comes loose often I have found.

Are you refering to the tranny. I did take off the cover and no wear or metal frag. oil looked clean. put cover back on.

 

[BikersDream]

Upper motor mount tight?

 

[phatchopper300]

Upper motor mount tight?

Yes I double checked all mount bolts. the sound is like something spinning oppsite of either tranny or primary chain? I might have to take it in and have it serviced by tech or dealer.

 

[BikersDream]

Yes I double checked all mount bolts. the sound is like something spinning oppsite of either tranny or primary chain? I might have to take it in and have it serviced by tech or dealer.

Sounds like a good move. Wish we could upload sounds to threads?:bang:

 

[bigdogtech01]

Yep did that last night checked the chain it was tight. But did not put it in gear, Can I pull the clutch leaver spin the tire and then check the chain. Just want to make sure I check all areas of the chain.

No take your spark plugs out, put the transmission in top gear (6th) and then turn the rear tire, it will move hard because you will be turning the motor over and also will be turning the primary chain. Turn the rear wheel a 1/4 turn at a time till you find the loose and tight spots.
Spec. is COLD 5/8"-7/8" slack, slight downward force and then upward to get your total measurement.
Also while you are turning the rear wheel, listen to see if you have some noises coming from the transmission or even the drive pulley off your main drive gear.
In order to check your front drive sprocket nut and clutch hub nut you need to remove your primary cover. Once you have the cover off grab hold of the clutch basket and see if it moves in and out or up and down at all, if it has any play your nut is loose. Even if it does not move, just to make sure remove the throwout bearing via the retainer clip (C-clip) or via the 4 , 1/2" drive 5/16" bolts that hold your clutch spring and pressure plate on. You will see the hub nut under that. It is a metric drive, 32mm. The front nut is 1 5/16" drive.
If the nut did loosen up you should check to make sure the inner hub surface is still ok, the surface that rides against the hub shim (or if no shim, will be against the Main shaft bearing inner race) If it has any edge, wear, you should replace it. If your bike has the old style clutch hub shim (more than likely it does)(or it may not have one at all) replace it with the new hardened one.
Also keep in mind if the hub nut did loosen up most likely the Main shaft walked over and is causing your gear set to be misaligned. You need to make sure you torque that hub nut to at least 100ft lbs during reassembly. Front nut is 160ft lbs. I also use RED locktite on the two nuts, and don't be shy with it, if you use only one little drop it will loosen back up again.
Stay away from that Amsoil too. It will make your clutch more apt to slip. Just use regular primary oil. Amsoil is known to cause lifter problems in your motor, so stay away from using it in your bike. Use Mobile 1, Spectro, Castrol, or Bel Ray.
If you feel you are a bit overwhelmed during your tear down feel free to ask more questions, or PM me and I can give you my number to call. There are a few specs to look at if you want to measure your clutch plates as long as you have it all apart.
Good luck to you and hope you figure it out.:up:

 

[phatchopper300]

No take your spark plugs out, put the transmission in top gear (6th) and then turn the rear tire, it will move hard because you will be turning the motor over and also will be turning the primary chain. Turn the rear wheel a 1/4 turn at a time till you find the loose and tight spots.
Spec. is COLD 5/8"-7/8" slack, slight downward force and then upward to get your total measurement.
Also while you are turning the rear wheel, listen to see if you have some noises coming from the transmission or even the drive pulley off your main drive gear.
In order to check your front drive sprocket nut and clutch hub nut you need to remove your primary cover. Once you have the cover off grab hold of the clutch basket and see if it moves in and out or up and down at all, if it has any play your nut is loose. Even if it does not move, just to make sure remove the throwout bearing via the retainer clip (C-clip) or via the 4 , 1/2" drive 5/16" bolts that hold your clutch spring and pressure plate on. You will see the hub nut under that. It is a metric drive, 32mm. The front nut is 1 5/16" drive.
If the nut did loosen up you should check to make sure the inner hub surface is still ok, the surface that rides against the hub shim (or if no shim, will be against the Main shaft bearing inner race) If it has any edge, wear, you should replace it. If your bike has the old style clutch hub shim (more than likely it does)(or it may not have one at all) replace it with the new hardened one.
Also keep in mind if the hub nut did loosen up most likely the Main shaft walked over and is causing your gear set to be misaligned. You need to make sure you torque that hub nut to at least 100ft lbs during reassembly. Front nut is 160ft lbs. I also use RED locktite on the two nuts, and don't be shy with it, if you use only one little drop it will loosen back up again.
Stay away from that Amsoil too. It will make your clutch more apt to slip. Just use regular primary oil. Amsoil is known to cause lifter problems in your motor, so stay away from using it in your bike. Use Mobile 1, Spectro, Castrol, or Bel Ray.
If you feel you are a bit overwhelmed during your tear down feel free to ask more questions, or PM me and I can give you my number to call. There are a few specs to look at if you want to measure your clutch plates as long as you have it all apart.
Good luck to you and hope you figure it out.:up:

Wow what a reply post. When i have it all apart i will call or pm u. thanks for all the valued info. again people like yourself make this site so valueble.
Mike

 

[phatchopper300]

No take your spark plugs out, put the transmission in top gear (6th) and then turn the rear tire, it will move hard because you will be turning the motor over and also will be turning the primary chain. Turn the rear wheel a 1/4 turn at a time till you find the loose and tight spots.
Spec. is COLD 5/8"-7/8" slack, slight downward force and then upward to get your total measurement.
Also while you are turning the rear wheel, listen to see if you have some noises coming from the transmission or even the drive pulley off your main drive gear.
In order to check your front drive sprocket nut and clutch hub nut you need to remove your primary cover. Once you have the cover off grab hold of the clutch basket and see if it moves in and out or up and down at all, if it has any play your nut is loose. Even if it does not move, just to make sure remove the throwout bearing via the retainer clip (C-clip) or via the 4 , 1/2" drive 5/16" bolts that hold your clutch spring and pressure plate on. You will see the hub nut under that. It is a metric drive, 32mm. The front nut is 1 5/16" drive.
If the nut did loosen up you should check to make sure the inner hub surface is still ok, the surface that rides against the hub shim (or if no shim, will be against the Main shaft bearing inner race) If it has any edge, wear, you should replace it. If your bike has the old style clutch hub shim (more than likely it does)(or it may not have one at all) replace it with the new hardened one.
Also keep in mind if the hub nut did loosen up most likely the Main shaft walked over and is causing your gear set to be misaligned. You need to make sure you torque that hub nut to at least 100ft lbs during reassembly. Front nut is 160ft lbs. I also use RED locktite on the two nuts, and don't be shy with it, if you use only one little drop it will loosen back up again.
Stay away from that Amsoil too. It will make your clutch more apt to slip. Just use regular primary oil. Amsoil is known to cause lifter problems in your motor, so stay away from using it in your bike. Use Mobile 1, Spectro, Castrol, or Bel Ray.
If you feel you are a bit overwhelmed during your tear down feel free to ask more questions, or PM me and I can give you my number to call. There are a few specs to look at if you want to measure your clutch plates as long as you have it all apart.
Good luck to you and hope you figure it out.:up:

I have all the tools ness. and will dig into it tonight. While I have it all apart I believe I will take some good pic's maybe that will help solve the problem(have an eyeball view).

 

[twowheel99]

Sorry 2wheel, I disagree. With a loose primary chain the centrifugal forces induced on the chain during rotation in froward (under power) or in reverse (backing off) cause the loose part of the chain to be slung against the case sometimes. Pulling in the clutch during these times reduces the centrifugal force and slack in the chain and stops making noise.
Sorry!




Very True! :2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:


It sounds very much like your primary chain is loose. I know you said that you checked, and it was not.
I'm going to ask a stupid question here, sooo....
But did you put it in gear and rotate the rear tire too check it at it's loosest point?

dead

You are correct dead, I was just indicating that the chain and the gears contiune to spin with the clutch lever pull in or disengaged and that he would have to contiune to look further into the problem.....
2

 

[phatchopper300]

No take your spark plugs out, put the transmission in top gear (6th) and then turn the rear tire, it will move hard because you will be turning the motor over and also will be turning the primary chain. Turn the rear wheel a 1/4 turn at a time till you find the loose and tight spots.
Spec. is COLD 5/8"-7/8" slack, slight downward force and then upward to get your total measurement.
Also while you are turning the rear wheel, listen to see if you have some noises coming from the transmission or even the drive pulley off your main drive gear.
In order to check your front drive sprocket nut and clutch hub nut you need to remove your primary cover. Once you have the cover off grab hold of the clutch basket and see if it moves in and out or up and down at all, if it has any play your nut is loose. Even if it does not move, just to make sure remove the throwout bearing via the retainer clip (C-clip) or via the 4 , 1/2" drive 5/16" bolts that hold your clutch spring and pressure plate on. You will see the hub nut under that. It is a metric drive, 32mm. The front nut is 1 5/16" drive.
If the nut did loosen up you should check to make sure the inner hub surface is still ok, the surface that rides against the hub shim (or if no shim, will be against the Main shaft bearing inner race) If it has any edge, wear, you should replace it. If your bike has the old style clutch hub shim (more than likely it does)(or it may not have one at all) replace it with the new hardened one.
Also keep in mind if the hub nut did loosen up most likely the Main shaft walked over and is causing your gear set to be misaligned. You need to make sure you torque that hub nut to at least 100ft lbs during reassembly. Front nut is 160ft lbs. I also use RED locktite on the two nuts, and don't be shy with it, if you use only one little drop it will loosen back up again.
Stay away from that Amsoil too. It will make your clutch more apt to slip. Just use regular primary oil. Amsoil is known to cause lifter problems in your motor, so stay away from using it in your bike. Use Mobile 1, Spectro, Castrol, or Bel Ray.
If you feel you are a bit overwhelmed during your tear down feel free to ask more questions, or PM me and I can give you my number to call. There are a few specs to look at if you want to measure your clutch plates as long as you have it all apart.
Good luck to you and hope you figure it out.:up:

ok primary is off and checked the chain. It was very tight. I put the bike in 6th and checked chain and all good. Could the chain have been to tight. I did take out all discs and check for wear. All good. eveything was tight. I have 1 5/16 socket and I cant tighten the spoket nut with out turning over the motor pistons? I guess tire has to be on ground. Douh!!! I did remove the 4 bolts to check the discs everything was tight. So the only thing I hear when i turn the back wheel is the hub that the belt sprocket turns on. It like a clicking when the belt turns around it. Nothing that sounds bad. Is that OK. CAN YOU PM ME WITH YOUR #. I WANT TO MAKE THIS SHORT AND SWEET. THANKS
MIKE

 

[mobsta]

is the belt clicking when turning the wheel forward or back.if it is clicking forward i would say you have a misalignment if it does it in reverse not a problem.that click is the belt jumping on the srocket teeth.just sayn

 

[phatchopper300]

is the belt clicking when turning the wheel forward or back.if it is clicking forward i would say you have a misalignment if it does it in reverse not a problem.that click is the belt jumping on the srocket teeth.just sayn

Maybe i should be more clear i checked that by pulling off the cover to the belt and it is seated correctly it maybe just the sound from the belt turning on the sproket it does it forward and reverse same sound. Its kind of sound the would be normal for sounds like gears turning to gether correctly. Thanks for the input.

Do you know how i am to torque the two bolts on the primary side without the chain turning when i try to tighten the nut.

 

[mobsta]

just one more thing reading your first post on this issue and your belt clicking i started thinking again.now bare in mind my bike is left hand drive,i have air ride and when i ride down alttle my belt makes a humming type sound on decel and sometimes on accelerating slightly.are you sure its not your belt?im just giving you something to look at.it might be that simple.hope you figure it out

 

[phatchopper300]

just one more thing reading your first post on this issue and your belt clicking i started thinking again.now bare in mind my bike is left hand drive,i have air ride and when i ride down alttle my belt makes a humming type sound on decel and sometimes on accelerating slightly.are you sure its not your belt?im just giving you something to look at.it might be that simple.hope you figure it out

Thanks for your info. I did check the belt. I think it might need to be tightened up a bit. has a lot of play in it. I guess i need to check the forum for that thread. thanks again

 

[stlmikie]

Hey Phatty. Take a rag and twist it up or a block of wood and put in between the chain and sprocket. When you start to tighten the nuts the rag or wood will bind the chain so that you can get the nuts tightened. Give it a shot and let us know how it goes.

 

[mobsta]

or you kinda answered that question your self.bike on ground in gear and have someone on bike with rear brake on so it cant roll.i know alittle excessive:loony:

 

[Outfitter]

If your primary chain is tight and you do not have slack in it then it is too tight. You need to have 5/8" or so slack in the primary chain. Do you have it?

ok primary is off and checked the chain. It was very tight. I put the bike in 6th and checked chain and all good. Could the chain have been to tight. I did take out all discs and check for wear. All good. eveything was tight. I have 1 5/16 socket and I cant tighten the spoket nut with out turning over the motor pistons? I guess tire has to be on ground. Douh!!! I did remove the 4 bolts to check the discs everything was tight. So the only thing I hear when i turn the back wheel is the hub that the belt sprocket turns on. It like a clicking when the belt turns around it. Nothing that sounds bad. Is that OK. CAN YOU PM ME WITH YOUR #. I WANT TO MAKE THIS SHORT AND SWEET. THANKS
MIKE

 

[phatchopper300]

Yes I corrected it to 5/8"-7/8 in all gears.

 

[prodiver]

Check your throw out bearing. Easy to overlook when checking clutch. It is an inexpensive part and is the same part as used in the late model H.D. Sportster.