EHC replacement

Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
KaptinAmerika said:
(Side note I reached out to the manufacturer it is only protected on AUX post, outgoing)
That is also my understanding and is why I put the VR on the silver lug and the Battery on the Copper lug.
Click to expand...

Protects just the VR from a Battery short not a VR overcharging that way. AUX post is the silver one.

I'm just trying to figure out the best method, and why I would tend to argue a fuse is a better option here. To get protection both ways?

Sadly whoever installed my PDM had all the electronics and VR hooked up to the AUX post so my VR killed it all. I should have went through the electric system when I bought it and paid the price.



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Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
This is something that's always bothered me.

Typically the source (usually battery) hense "bat" would prevent the load "aux" from drawing to much current. From bat->aux

This is supposed to be a current limiting device. Seems like it would control either way but not sure. You guys say the manufacturer it doesn't.

Therefore since the VR is flowing current to the battery, it should be "bat" and the battery should be "aux" since that is current flow direction.

That's not confusing at all.
 
Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
KaptinAmerika said:
(Side note I reached out to the manufacturer it is only protected on AUX post, outgoing)
That is also my understanding and is why I put the VR on the silver lug and the Battery on the Copper lug.
Click to expand...
Is that correct? Lol. What is protecting what from what? Jason? @Ohmster ?

What is the OEM setup?
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
Typically the breaker would separate a circuit from the source in the event of a short etc.
Hence "bat" - "aux" although I think it would be better marked as "bat" - "load" but I digress.
So thats how they stamped their breakers.
Since they did not make them specifically for our BD setups we then have to do a work around for the charging system.
I think they should have explained the proper connection sequence in the BD manual though.
I would imagine if we had 10,000 of them made we could probably have them stamped "bat" - "vr" in the correct connection sequence...lol
 
Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
A fuse is bi-directional. Exceed a certain current and it pops.

I am curious if these will do the same, or if it's a different current in each direction, or not at all or slower or what. They obviously lable it for a reason.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Jwooky said:
A fuse is bi-directional. Exceed a certain current and it pops.

I am curious if these will do the same, or if it's a different current in each direction, or not at all or slower or what. They obviously lable it for a reason.
Click to expand...
That's why I reached out to a manufacturer, now it might not be the same one but I suspect all the marine breakers are designed the same ..

I was looking at the breakers and I stumbled upon their webpage and it seemed pretty clear it was only protected on one circuit so I followed up with them.

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1932-resettable-circuit-breaker

. Complies with Standard SAE J553 and SAE J1171 (Ignition Protected). Splash proof. May be used on 12 volt or 24 volt systems. All breakers have #10-32 studs, complete with nuts. The copper post is the battery or power in post and the silver post is the Aux. or power out, protected post. Part numbers 420852-1, 420853-1, 420854-1 and 420855-1 include Breaker Cover part number 420840.
Click to expand...
as I assumed a circuit breaker is ALWAYS designed one direction so why Big Dog didn't use a fuse eludes me, and what I'm trying to understand. Seems to me a fuse on the VR to Battery is better and use a breaker on the electronics. Now that I can get behind.

I'm really not that smart so I must be missing something.





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Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
If that is true, then the VR should on "bat" and battery on "aux" to protect battery from over current from the VR.

I still suspect that if would do something in the other direction too, perhaps just less effective.
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
Of course we all know they used a fuse but then switched to breakers.
A good series VR will have internal protection from the battery so there is no need for a fuse and the breaker is resettable so you don't have to replace the fuse.

It will not do anything in the other direction.
This is one of the reasons owenrs have had fried electrical systems because their breakers are wired wrong.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Jwooky said:
If that is true, then the VR should on "bat" and battery on "aux" to protect battery from over current from the VR.

I still suspect that if would do something in the other direction too, perhaps just less effective.
Click to expand...
Well...I don't know, maybe. That's why I'm thinking a fuse is superior in this specific application.

If you want to use the breaker I'd use the opposite posts too. I'm going to run a fuse on the new system however. I can't see any good reason to use the breaker. Sucks I bought two, to have one as a spare. Now I'll have to find something fun to do with them haha



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Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
My thoughts too, so we just need to protect the battery from over current.

Therefor: current goes from VR--->battery.

So on the breaker should be set up as VR on the "bat" terminal and battery on the "aux".
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Okay I didn't know that about the VR.

Okay so just need to correct your original post then. So you agree VR on gold post or battery and battery on silver post or AUX
KaptinAmerika said:
(Side note I reached out to the manufacturer it is only protected on AUX post, outgoing)
That is also my understanding and is why I put the VR on the silver lug and the Battery on the Copper lug.
Click to expand...

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 
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