Bike cuts off after it warms up

[1 B.M.F.]

Well you might study up on voltage regulators because they can have stray voltage that can and will pop a a circuit breaker that’s what fried a lot of Older EHC’s. They are closed loop you are correct. I re read what I wrote and I never read anything about electrical reversing don’t know what the heck your talking about. The circuit breaker is there for that reason. Too much voltage POP if it’s working correctly. And he said it pops. The voltage regulator if wired correctly is attached to the circuit breaker. At least it is on my bike. Not sure what’s in the well, but it is Saturday I would like some.

 

[Sven]

I re read what I wrote and I never read anything about electrical reversing...

It's one of Newton's laws. With diode in place. It may be DC, but if a coil lead is open and that stored energy can reverse into the components like a processor having a hard part cooked, I'm not discounting it, but.

Are we saying the fuse cools off or the crank sensor cools off? I may hear a click, but a short is a short to knock the fuse out. A short does not cool off this type fuse and starts the bike up again... if it's a direct short meaning. That fuse has to cook for how long a ride will it switch the power off? That's the first main fuse beginning at the hot side of the battery so that says no lights either.

If the stator/VR did not change but the processor did, then is it built to take a fuse pop now? We should be hearing some fuse pops with the updated units. And do you still hear about any pop complaints with the new ehc?

 

[1 B.M.F.]

Well my chopper (05) was doing the same thing before the ehc died. I eventually had no power to anything. I bought a used EHC to test my bike. It was my ehc that fried. Did some research and with the help of a few guys on here, I did a lot more research and talked to kaptamerican he hooked me up with more valuable information and I bought axels programmable EHC replacement a a New voltage regulator that has a ground to disperse anything above 32 . Haven’t had 1 problem since knock on wood ..
Willywill good luck let me know what you get figured out and the progress. I hope I’ve helped.

 

[willywill4765]

It's one of Newton's laws. With diode in place. It may be DC, but if a coil lead is open and that stored energy can reverse into the components like a processor having a hard part cooked, I'm not discounting it, but.

Are we saying the fuse cools off or the crank sensor cools off? I may hear a click, but a short is a short to knock the fuse out. A short does not cool off this type fuse and starts the bike up again... if it's a direct short meaning. That fuse has to cook for how long a ride will it switch the power off? That's the first main fuse beginning at the hot side of the battery so that says no lights either.

If the stator/VR did not change but the processor did, then is it built to take a fuse pop now? We should be hearing some fuse pops with the updated units. And do you still hear about any pop complaints with the new ehc?

It's not a fuse it's a breaker I have resettable breakers The breaker gets hot and then it trips which turns the engine off once the breaker cools down it resets itself then I'm able to start the bike and ride for another 10 minutes but it takes about 10-15 minutes to cool down. Here's a picture of my setup, my fingers pointing at the voltage regulator attached to the 40 amp breaker.

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[willywill4765]

Well my chopper (05) was doing the same thing before the ehc died. I eventually had no power to anything. I bought a used EHC to test my bike. It was my ehc that fried. Did some research and with the help of a few guys on here, I did a lot more research and talked to kaptamerican he hooked me up with more valuable information and I bought axels programmable EHC replacement a a New voltage regulator that has a ground to disperse anything above 32 . Haven’t had 1 problem since knock on wood ..
Willywill good luck let me know what you get figured out and the progress. I hope I’ve helped.

That sounds like what will probably end up happening I just feel right now it's something so minor, like a crank sensor. Bike is an '07 so if the crank sensor has never been changed maybe I should try that first. I appreciate all the help everyone is trying to give would love to ride today it's going to be 80 and beautiful.

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[1 B.M.F.]

Just so you know a crank sensor just monitors the speed and rotation position of the crank shaft I really do think you will be waisting $60. On a new one. If you were having Speedo problems or engine was cutting in and out I would look at that. But your not

 

[1 B.M.F.]

Ps: it’s been raining here for two weeks off and on. Cabin fever like a M.F. I was so bad yesterday I hoped on my sons Crf 50 and gave it a lap on his track but it’s not the same.

 

[Sven]

I said above... "A short does not cool off this type fuse and starts the bike up again... if it's a direct short meaning". I'm well aware of wiring up 5 chopper harnesses from scratch using these type fuses. I added the direct short so we were on the same page.

Before you throw parts at it, where are we if we metered the copper stud and watched how much voltage is being sent from the VR while running. An idle shows how much? A few blips show how much? We peak past 14.8v and hang there, we might be looking at a VR not a CS.

And also, that computer spray in a can? Dust Off is it? Spray that on the sensor or fuse immediately and see who starts when cold? No waiting around to cool. And while you're riding, tape the meter to the tank and watch the volts spike past say 14.2v and heads to 15v+.

 

[willywill4765]

Just so you know a crank sensor just monitors the speed and rotation position of the crank shaft I really do think you will be waisting $60. On a new one. If you were having Speedo problems or engine was cutting in and out I would look at that. But your not

My engine does cut out it will run on an average of 13 to 15 minutes and then it just shuts off, once the breaker resets itself and the bike cools down for about 10 minutes then it starts up it rides perfect again but it'll do the same thing shut down in 10 minutes because it's a little warm already

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[willywill4765]

I said above... "A short does not cool off this type fuse and starts the bike up again... if it's a direct short meaning". I'm well aware of wiring up 5 chopper harnesses from scratch using these type fuses. I added the direct short so we were on the same page.

Before you throw parts at it, where are we if we metered the copper stud and watched how much voltage is being sent from the VR while running. An idle shows how much? A few blips show how much? We peak past 14.8v and hang there, we might be looking at a VR not a CS.

And also, that computer spray in a can? Dust Off is it? Spray that on the sensor or fuse immediately and see who starts when cold? No waiting around to cool. And while you're riding, tape the meter to the tank and watch the volts spike past say 14.2v and heads to 15v+.

All right I charged the battery full overnight unhooked the voltage regulator from the 40 amp breaker and it ran for the same 14 minutes and then cut off just like it does.

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[willywill4765]

All right I charged the battery full overnight unhooked the voltage regulator from the 40 amp breaker and it ran for the same 14 minutes and then cut off just like it does.

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With bike running voltmeter on copper wire 40 amp breaker, reading 13.23-13.26 and held steady

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[willywill4765]

With bike running voltmeter on copper wire 40 amp breaker, reading 13.23-13.26 and held steady

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And one more question when I replaced the 25 amp auxiliary breaker and the 40 amp breaker that the voltage regulator connects to I couldn't find a 25 so I just bought a 30 amp would that be causing this God I'd feel stupid if it was I just figure going bigger well allow me to find the real problem

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[Sven]

Look how the guy sets up the ground to the meter to the battery. That's with key off. Something is acting like a short when heating up within 10 minutes or so. Get that parasite out of the way if any. VR shows it's sable with no spikes, right?

And this being off the wall... I believe it because dust over that surface can connect the two posts with that surface layer.

Too bad you don't have a temp gun and read each wire getting warm.

 

[Sven]

NAPA or a harley dealer would have those. 30a is main, and 15a are for lights and the rest. Only your 10a difference knows for sure because I'm stumped looking at good known parts so far as I see.

Edit: I'm looking at my '80's factory shop manual. Maybe BD used the 25a in their system. Shit, go get a 15a... It's an 8 dollar test. Someone had to use formula to use a 25a is my guess, so I'd go back to spec. Unless you installed the 30a and this is the last thing you did to the bike and now this is occurring. Get it? Watt was the last thing I did electrically?

 

[willywill4765]

NAPA or a harley dealer would have those. 30a is main, and 15a are for lights and the rest. Only your 10a difference knows for sure because I'm stumped looking at good known parts so far as I see.

Edit: I'm looking at my '80's factory shop manual. Maybe BD used the 25a in their system. Shit, go get a 15a... It's an 8 dollar test. Someone had to use formula to use a 25a is my guess, so I'd go back to spec. Unless you installed the 30a and this is the last thing you did to the bike and now this is occurring. Get it? Watt was the last thing I did electrically?

Yeah The breakers that came with the bike was a 40 amp for the VR and a 25 amp for the memory and the horn or something like that I couldn't find a 25 amp so I bought a 30 but I thought I had that in there prior.

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[Sven]

If the group has mentioned that the pop was doing the same thing and taking out the processor, I guess that's a sign of it going belly up.

I'd love to know the fix, so I'm on my last short list of ideas before throwing parts at it. I'd scrub my battery post where the side of the cable touches, and scrape to bare metal that cable side too. Down to the frame and scrape bare metal at the ground cable from battery, and frame mount too. Why? Say E goes on a loop, and if it can't ground, it heatsinks someplace else, i.e., the fuse on the opposite side is that loop back to the (+) side of the battery.

A quick test loop to see if it remains consistent, if it does, then you know what to do to solve it.

 

[willywill4765]

If the group has mentioned that the pop was doing the same thing and taking out the processor, I guess that's a sign of it going belly up.

I'd love to know the fix, so I'm on my last short list of ideas before throwing parts at it. I'd scrub my battery post where the side of the cable touches, and scrape to bare metal that cable side too. Down to the frame and scrape bare metal at the ground cable from battery, and frame mount too. Why? Say E goes on a loop, and if it can't ground, it heatsinks someplace else, i.e., the fuse on the opposite side is that loop back to the (+) side of the battery.

A quick test loop to see if it remains consistent, if it does, then you know what to do to solve it.

There's like three plugs underneath my tank not sure exactly what they do they look like some kind of sensors hell there could be four plugs I think, not sure if you're around your big dog but the next time you start it up after about 10-12 minutes look at your pipes under the heat shields right near the engine and see if they're turning red mine turn a little red which leaves me to believe that's when it starts to overheat. Thanks again and stay healthy

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[Mikeinjersey]

I agree with the logic to Not trouble shoot with parts. That being said, this problem is intermittent and verifying the problem is going to be difficult. I go back to my experience with this same issue and the Fix was a crank sensor. The bonus is that it is not an expensive part and at least you will know for sure your's is good or bad. Good Luck and I'm sure you will post your fix whatever it is.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

There's like three plugs underneath my tank not sure exactly what they do they look like some kind of sensors hell there could be four plugs I think, not sure if you're around your big dog but the next time you start it up after about 10-12 minutes look at your pipes under the heat shields right near the engine and see if they're turning red mine turn a little red which leaves me to believe that's when it starts to overheat. Thanks again and stay healthy

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You got an EFI bike....that is what some of those connectors are under the tank.

I think the breaker is just failing. The breaker that goes to the battery/vr is the one that is tripping? If that is the case just unhook the Battery as well and see if it shows up still.

 

[willywill4765]

You got an EFI bike....that is what some of those connectors are under the tank.

I think the breaker is just failing. The breaker that goes to the battery/vr is the one that is tripping? If that is the case just unhook the Battery as well and see if it shows up still.

I unhooked the voltage regulator from the 40 amp breaker ran the bike on idle and after 15 minutes it shut off like it usually does and the voltage regulator was not connected to the breaker. Had a voltmeter on the battery while running gave it a little bit of gas and went all the way up to like 58 or something like that and it was a steady charge and I think 13.7 to 13.8. I did notice that my pipes coming out of the engine got red hot the color red so it seems like the top end is overheating and tripping the breaker just not sure what else goes to it, nothing on the 40 amp. And the 25 amp is just a couple other wires the horn and I guess the ECU or ECH. Has anybody else's bike Supertramp pipes get that hot

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