Dog Down! Oil Light On

I went for a ride the other night...bike was running great. On the way home I stoped for a few minutes. When I restarted the bike the oil light remained on. I also heard noise (tap-tap) coming from the front rocker box. I assumed from the evening's ride that I just needed some oil. The engine started up fine, apoeared to run fine. I was only a few blocks from home so I carefully eased it home. (Regret that decision now!) Checked the oil, about the same as always...but I added more. Restarted the bike...lite still on. Next day after everything was cold, restarted...same thing. I haven't had the bike very long but assume it's due for an oil change. Question, where is the Tappet Screen located? I have an 06 K9, I saw 2 Large Screws on top of the oil pump...are there 2 screens or just one?
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
If the screen is not totally blocked, you’ll need to find out what would account for a loss of oil pressure. Frank BDPS gives good advice to install a gauge and see exactly how much or little oil pressure your oil pump produces. If the oil lights worked correctly before and the apparent loss of pressure was sudden, you probably had little or no oil pressure. This is where an oil gauge would be illuminating because if the system was making any pressure at all, it might have been enough to prevent damage. The knocking noise you heard is not good.
The oil system is essentially two sides—(1) a high pressure side that takes the oil from the tank and pumps it to your engine—-crank, cams, valve train, etc, and (2) a low pressure side that sends the oil thru the filter and returns it to the tank.
I’m recalling Th3Infamous1 had an oil pump fail as he was motivatin’ down the road——-the little gear (81) that drives the whole system came off and his pressure went to zero.
Oil pumps can be a PITA to work on because there is so little room to work on them. Like heart surgery.....I worked on one in my last K9, and it was a lot of effort to get the retainer keys and small horseshoe clip in correctly (see 78 &. 82). Takes time and patience—if this is the issue, call Eric (Th3Infamous1) at HDM, Inc. And get a rebuild kit fr the oil pump. Or i suppose S&S would have one too.
Good luck.
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First...let me thank you and everyone else that has offered assistance to me. I had been riding the bike that night for several hours...just cruising around town stopping by the local watering holes. The last time I stopped I was there for over an hour. This would have allowed the oil to cool off and also any crud in the screen to set up. I won't know until I get in there and have a look. I was just too quick to make the assumption that the problem was just a little liw in oil. A gauge would have told me immediately whether I had a little problem or complete restriction/failure. Regardless of the outcome, I'll be sure to install a gauge. It may take me a week or so to even look. I drive a truck and don't have time except weekends, also I think a special tool is required to get to the screen. Thanks again...this Forum is excellent!!! Best tool in the box!
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
Sounds like you got the answers that you need! Hope it’s a simple fix Brother!
 
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Minuteman

Well-Known Member
This happen on my 77 FLH once on a trip with Th3Infamous as we were only 2-days into a week trip and it sucked.
My oil light came on and the motor sounded alright, but could not checked everything that was easy, but decided not to ride anymore.
The sad think is I was on a trip and had to rent a U-Haul to get back.
When I took it the oil pump apart I found a snap ring had broke causing the oil not to flow, a damn $2.00 part.
 
Ok...Status update. I pulled the Tappet Screen last night. It had a fair amount of crud on it...enough that I thought I had found the problem. Cleaned it up and put it back in. Fired it up...oil light remained on. I can only assume pump failure or an obstruction. I did not notice any noise coming from the top end however, I was inside a relatively small shop area and the noise could have been drowned out by the exhaust pipes. I'm reluctant to start it again so I thought I would get it into a shop (Harley Dealership) and let them have a look. I have decent mechanic skills but I've already read articles cautioning pump cavitation if its not properly purged of air. Considering the potential damage I might cause by a faulty install, I think I'll let our local Harley Dealership handle this one. I need them to check things out anyway to insure I haven't already caused some damage. Any thoughts? Also, any idea what replacing the pump will cost? I've heard that I should be prepared to pay twice what I expect. My guess would be around $750. There is another local shop that has a good reputation. I had planned to use them but I just think that if I have done some engine damage, I'd rather pay more and know the repairs will be under a warranty. Also, Harley will send a truck and trailer to transport the bike.
 

Minuteman

Well-Known Member
If you get a chance, as was mentioned above you may want to add an oil pressure gauge. This will tell you a whole lot before taking it to the shop. If you are not hearing the noise anymore maybe your oil pressure sending unit is bad. That is an easy fix. and a lot less money. My additional 2-cents worth.
 

41bigdawg

Let the Big Dawg eat !
If you get a chance, as was mentioned above you may want to add an oil pressure gauge. This will tell you a whole lot before taking it to the shop. If you are not hearing the noise anymore maybe your oil pressure sending unit is bad. That is an easy fix. and a lot less money. My additional 2-cents worth.
I agree with Ted, put a gauge on it and see what it looks like. The last place I would take any bike is a Harley shop, especially not a Big Dog.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Ok...Status update. I pulled the Tappet Screen last night. It had a fair amount of crud on it...enough that I thought I had found the problem. Cleaned it up and put it back in. Fired it up...oil light remained on. I can only assume pump failure or an obstruction. I did not notice any noise coming from the top end however, I was inside a relatively small shop area and the noise could have been drowned out by the exhaust pipes. I'm reluctant to start it again so I thought I would get it into a shop (Harley Dealership) and let them have a look. I have decent mechanic skills but I've already read articles cautioning pump cavitation if its not properly purged of air. Considering the potential damage I might cause by a faulty install, I think I'll let our local Harley Dealership handle this one. I need them to check things out anyway to insure I haven't already caused some damage. Any thoughts? Also, any idea what replacing the pump will cost? I've heard that I should be prepared to pay twice what I expect. My guess would be around $750. There is another local shop that has a good reputation. I had planned to use them but I just think that if I have done some engine damage, I'd rather pay more and know the repairs will be under a warranty. Also, Harley will send a truck and trailer to transport the bike.
If the bike starts and doesn’t make any unusual sounds, that’s good. Is the tapping sound you mentioned in your first post still there? Engine wear is supposed to be gradual, but an incident without oil pressure will accelerate that wear. If you had partial oil pressure, you might not have hurt it at all.
Any competent mechanic can do a leak down test (check to see if the cylinders hold a steady level of compression psi). Look it up on Utube and you’ll know, too. If there is excessive wear on the piston rings and cylinder walls, it won’t hold compression very long. That will give you an idea if there was significant wear on the piston rings, which is a decent overall perdictor of engine wear. If you can get your hands on one, do it yourself.
If it turns out to be a failed oil pump, you may get away with a $50 (or so) rebuild kit. As I recall replacement S&S oil pumps are about $500 or so. If you have some tools and decent skills, just go to any of Mr. Wright’s posts. On the bottom is a link to all the manuals—download yours and think about doing it yourself. It just takes time and care. You do have to remove the rocker boxes, lifters, and camshaft. Then you’ll know how to do that too. The instructions explain how to avoid cavitation. I think I took some kind of syringe to put oil in the pump before firing it up. You’ll have an oil gauge on it by then, so you’ll be OK.
FWIW, I value a local wrench who is skilled with our Evo design engines over a HD dealership any day.....this repair is not a difficult one for any shop, if you decide to go that way.
Appreciate your service—I was Army ‘66-‘68, combat engineers.
 
That's some really good information. I ordered a Pressure gauge yesterday. I'm in Kentucky and Winter is right around the corner so I have plenty of time to decide which way to go. I really prefer being able to work on the bike myself so I'm eager to give this a try. However, I also realize that a mistake could cost me an engine so I'm not totally sure I want to go that route yet. I'm still constructing my shop/storage building so it will be a few weeks before I would be equipped to try. I'll decide what to do then. I do think I'll stay away from the Harley Dealership, heard nothing good about that. Thanks alot...if I decide to give this a try I'd like to get back with you and go over a few details.
 
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