Clutch

[Gregory Kettner]

Loosen the cable, and then readjust the clutch. only back it off 1/8 turn, instead of the 1/4 turn that the manual says. Adjust the cable to remove the slack out of it, and try it. Tell us what it is doing then. I have a bike in my shop right now that is being a pain. Sometime clutch adjustments take several treys.

Thanks for the reply! before I can try your suggestion i’ll put the clutch back together I am not with all my tools. So I don’t have a torque wrench with me. The torque spec for those four bolts outside of the clutch housing would be required for me to try your suggestion. If I do not torque it correctly then your test would be a waste of time correct?

 

[Mr. Wright]

I'm headed out to go camping, but I'll keep an eye on this thread. I'm sure others will chime in also. There is a wealth of info in these guys heads. We'll get you up and running soon.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I don’t understand and I’m mechanically inclined. How is it possible to have no clutch at all? Is it possible that all 12 pads worn down enough to have zero clutch? The ball and ramp are working correct. Open up the primary broke down the clutch and I do not see anything out of the ordinary everything looks clean no gouges scratches. Before I open the clutch I measured the distance of the pressure plate movement when squeezing the clutch handle it was 3/16 of an inch. Not knowing what it should be or even if that’s a proper measurement it didn’t seem like it traveled very far. Like I said earlier I adjust the clutch per manual instructions.

If the clutch was working before you adjusted it you will probably be able to get it to function again. Getting into neutral easy is a related but different issue. When you say the clutch is not working at all do you mean it won't release or do you mean it won't drive the transmission ? If the plates are opening and closing visually jack the bike up to make sure you have drive.
These files may help you

 

[Gregory Kettner]

I'm headed out to go camping, but I'll keep an eye on this thread. I'm sure others will chime in also. There is a wealth of info in these guys heads. We'll get you up and running soon.

have fun ! Thanks for reaching out I’m going to the snug those four bolts down, don’t wanna strip anything. I’m pretty sure I tried different adjustments with the cable but I’ll try your suggestion.

 

[Gregory Kettner]

If the clutch was working before you adjusted it you will probably be able to get it to function again. Getting into neutral easy is a related but different issue. When you say the clutch is not working at all do you mean it won't release or do you mean it won't drive the transmission ? If the plates are opening and closing visually jack the bike up to make sure you have drive.
These files may help you

Actual events; I adjusted the clutch according to the manual quarter turn back. Took the bike for about a 20 minute ride and the clutch adjustment help getting into neutral. But later while riding the clutch stopped working entirely. So I tried several different adjustments on the cable. Took a look at the ball and ramp it was in good shape cleaned it up and lubed it. Adjusted the cable back to manual instructions. Still cannot move the bike forward or back holding the clutch handle down while in gear. Without the motor running. Took the primary cover off hoping not to see anything in there ugly fortunately everything looks like it should. Decided to break the clutch down and pull the plates out don’t see any damage anywhere. All disk are shiny with no burn marks and lubed.

Is it possible the pressure plate, i’ll call it the spring plate or clutch pad rings are so worn it’s causing this?

I’ll take a look at your links haven’t looked yet. I’m on vacation unfortunately all my tools, Manual and what I call my shop is three hours away.

 

[Gregory Kettner]

Actual events; I adjusted the clutch according to the manual quarter turn back. Took the bike for about a 20 minute ride and the clutch adjustment help getting into neutral. But later while riding the clutch stopped working entirely. So I tried several different adjustments on the cable. Took a look at the ball and ramp it was in good shape cleaned it up and lubed it. Adjusted the cable back to manual instructions. Still cannot move the bike forward or back holding the clutch handle down while in gear. Without the motor running. Took the primary cover off hoping not to see anything in there ugly fortunately everything looks like it should. Decided to break the clutch down and pull the plates out don’t see any damage anywhere. All disk are shiny with no burn marks and lubed.

Is it possible the pressure plate, i’ll call it the spring plate or clutch pad rings are so worn it’s causing this?

I’ll take a look at your links haven’t looked yet. I’m on vacation unfortunately all my tools, Manual and what I call my shop is three hours away.

Thanks again for sharing those links! I have researched and saw both of those when I was trying to diagnose this before reaching out.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

When you get home check out the condition of the throw-out bearing. If that also looks good like the rest of the clutch parts I would make sure the clutch pushrod was well lubricated and give the adj another go. Terms like "lightly touching" in an adjustment is up the individuals understanding of touch. Consider, if you make the adjustment with the pushrod lightly touching and don't back off at all that would be maximum throw. 1/8 , 1/4 turn back out insures the clutch is fully engaged when the handle is released. You need to have as much throw as possible without slippage under power in order to make finding neutral easier. The handle adj is part of the equation also in order to get full throw.
FYI one trick to find neutral is to find it while rolling to your stop. Also a throttle blip can help.

 

[Gregory Kettner]

When you get home check out the condition of the throw-out bearing. If that also looks good like the rest of the clutch parts I would make sure the clutch pushrod was well lubricated and give the adj another go. Terms like "lightly touching" in an adjustment is up the individuals understanding of touch. Consider, if you make the adjustment with the pushrod lightly touching and don't back off at all that would be maximum throw. 1/8 , 1/4 turn back out insures the clutch is fully engaged when the handle is released. You need to have as much throw as possible without slippage under power in order to make finding neutral easier. The handle adj is part of the equation also in order to get full throw.
FYI one trick to find neutral is to find it while rolling to your stop. Also a throttle blip can help.

Thanks for taking the time and commenting!

When this gets up and going correctly I will use your suggested techniques to get in neutral coming up to a stop. I did look at the throwout bearing which is mounted on the pressure plate. It is not pressed in which surprise me. There is no FreePlay in the bearing itself but as the bearing sits in the pressure plate with a locking keeper there is play in that part of it. That is just a design I suppose and that play could be taking out with the pushrod and adjusting it. I’m gonna go ahead and order new clutch pad pack of 12 don’t know if I’m going to order a pressure plate or the spring plate though.

Maybe I should pick up the last two parts I mentioned because, I tried adjusting the cable in full throw distance or clutch fully engaged. By turning the pushrod up against the throwout bearing tightening the nut then adjusting all slack out of clutch cable and still could not roll the bike forward or back in gear without the motor running?

 

[Mr. Wright]

Thanks for taking the time and commenting!

When this gets up and going correctly I will use your suggested techniques to get in neutral coming up to a stop. I did look at the throwout bearing which is mounted on the pressure plate. It is not pressed in which surprise me. There is no FreePlay in the bearing itself but as the bearing sits in the pressure plate with a locking keeper there is play in that part of it. That is just a design I suppose and that play could be taking out with the pushrod and adjusting it. I’m gonna go ahead and order new clutch pad pack of 12 don’t know if I’m going to order a pressure plate or the spring plate though.

Maybe I should pick up the last two parts I mentioned because, I tried adjusting the cable in full throw distance or clutch fully engaged. By turning the pushrod up against the throwout bearing tightening the nut then adjusting all slack out of clutch cable and still could not roll the bike forward or back in gear without the motor running?

Before ordering a new clutch pack make sure you measure the height of it. Should be about 1.965. look at the pressure plate, you will find that it will wear more than the plates themselves.

 

[Mr. Wright]

Go back to post 20 of this thread and click on that link. The same holds true for a 12 stack or 9 stack

 

[Jwooky]

I would also check the hub nut and re torque to 150 ft lb.

 

[Gregory Kettner]

Before ordering a new clutch pack make sure you measure the height of it. Should be about 1.965. look at the pressure plate, you will find that it will wear more than the plates themselves.

Yeah, I just ordered a clutch pack last night online. The place I ordered it from won’t be back to work until Monday the 11th so, I can probably cancel the order if need be. I think I’ll go to the local parts store and pick up a Micron tool and maybe a C clamp to compress the clutch pack and get a measurement. Do you have any idea what the measurement of the clutch pack would be if I need to replace it?

 

[HMAN]

Gregory Kettner said:
Thanks for taking the time and commenting!

When this gets up and going correctly I will use your suggested techniques to get in neutral coming up to a stop. I did look at the throwout bearing which is mounted on the pressure plate. It is not pressed in which surprise me. There is no FreePlay in the bearing itself but as the bearing sits in the pressure plate with a locking keeper there is play in that part of it. That is just a design I suppose and that play could be taking out with the pushrod and adjusting it. I’m gonna go ahead and order new clutch pad pack of 12 don’t know if I’m going to order a pressure plate or the spring plate though.

Maybe I should pick up the last two parts I mentioned because, I tried adjusting the cable in full throw distance or clutch fully engaged. By turning the pushrod up against the throwout bearing tightening the nut then adjusting all slack out of clutch cable and still could not roll the bike forward or back in gear without the motor running?
Click to expand...

Mr. Wright:
Before ordering a new clutch pack make sure you measure the height of it. Should be about 1.965. look at the pressure plate, you will find that it will wear more than the plates themselves

 

[Gregory Kettner]

Mr. Wright:
Before ordering a new clutch pack make sure you measure the height of it. Should be about 1.965. look at the pressure plate, you will find that it will wear more than the plates themselves

OK I just measured the clutch pack with a C clamp lately compressing them together. I’m getting readings from 1.936 to 1.946 I do not know what the variances is when it’s time to replace? I am on vacation and I do not have my manual with me.

 

[Gregory Kettner]

OK I just measured the clutch pack with a C clamp lately compressing them together. I’m getting readings from 1.936 to 1.946 I do not know what the variances is when it’s time to replace? I am on vacation and I do not have my manual with me.

What is the pressure plate thickness supposed to be?

 

[Gregory Kettner]

What is the pressure plate thickness supposed to be?

Mine is reading at .508 thickness

 

[Gregory Kettner]

OK I just measured the clutch pack with a C clamp lately compressing them together. I’m getting readings from 1.936 to 1.946 I do not know what the variances is when it’s time to replace? I am on vacation and I do not have my manual with me.

I’m assuming the 1.965 is the minimum thickness anything less the clutch plates need to be replaced is this correct?