Documenting the rebuild of my Pro Sport 107 - motor, exhaust, etc and some WTFs

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Thanks Franco- Needed the sissy bar so my honey does not end up on the pavement when I gun it.. lol. I could not find anything I liked in a fender mounted solution, so I had my seat guy embed the sissy bar rails inside the actual seat itself. the sissy bar is actually for a Honda Fury and comes with the 90-degree bent rails - on the Fury it is supposed to mount on either side of the passenger pillon to the fender. but since my rear is wider, I could "hide" the mounting arms inside the actual seat. funny huh?
 

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Nice job on the seat. Hope the motor is just as hot.
Talk about timing... Mechanic just emailed me a photo of motor assembled, minus rockers. It is now almost 109 cubic inches - The show polish on everything really looks sick :D:D

 
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LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Here's a simple layout of the final assembled motor specs based on head chamber volume / assembled quench, piston deck height and T-Man 625 cam timing events. Cranking compression will be right about 202psi at sea level:




And the planned initial advance curve for the ignition based on the large bore and high compression build of motor- Daytona Twin Tec Evo module Race Mode 7 Advance Curve 0. The blue line is the high vaccum advance map / VOES switch (MC07 switch @ 6.5hg) activates and advances timing (light throttle, cruise, idle). Red line is low vaccuum map at wide open throttle. If I disconnect the VOES all events will follow the red line map.

Since the bike is light and gearing shortended a bit, I may be able to bump it up to 32 degrees full advance (curve 2), we'll see after it's actually running ;p

 
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LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Okee so here are some more pics of things in process - 'cuz I know you all like those "nudie" photos of stripped down bikes right?? :eek:. Motor is mounted in frame, new 30t trans pulley installed (dropped from the stock 32t, did not need a shorter belt). Mechanic discovered my rubber plug for the Stator is going bad so there's another $100 or so out the door. New Stator ordered.

Check out the custom hand wrapped carbon fiber on tank dash piece and oil tank- They make a lot of carbon fiber parts for race cars at this shop so they did an overlay on the parts. sorry for the crappy phone pics they look SICK in person. The shop is www.afterhoursautomotive.com and Brian Kono does all of the parts fabrications there. He's an artist.

on rack:


dash piece:


oil tank:
 
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LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
A bit more progress- new stator installed, primary installed. I upgraded to a better primary mainshaft bearing, less tranny shaft end play under load vs the older tapered bearing style. $20 part well worth it. Drag Specialties "Sealed performance main shaft bearing" for 85-93 FXR inner primary.

 

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
ok so progress has been made, mechanic will be firing up the beast this weekend.

We had one more major setback and you just ain't gonna believe this.... The stock oil tank had a BUNCH of copper shit inside it from when it was originally chromed and had been leaching copper particles into the oil system. Whoever BDM used to chrome this tank did not know WTF they were doing (tank on brand new bike was chrome from factory).

When the motor oil was first drained before rebuild, my mech saw a lot of copper pieces in it - and during further tear down found copper particles everywhere, essentially fouling up oil ports etc- which to him was really bizarre at the time. couldn't find out where it was coming from. But this definitely contributed to the motor going south.

Mech did a final wash out of the oil tank on Monday before re-installing - used some denatured alcohol and shook it around, drained it, and large copper slabs started coming out along with copper sand-size granules. So all we could do is soak the inside with muriatic acid for a bit and rinse a few times to get most all of it out, then coat the inside with an epoxy liner.

Now.. what liner do you use. Well, it ain't that simple like a gas tank. You need an epoxy that will stand up to immersion in 200+ degree oil. There is only one type of epoxy that will work. It is called "Phenol Novolac Epoxy" and is used by the petrochemical companies to line their large tanks. So where do I get it?

After 4 hours of calling various chemical companies I discovered that Caswell uses this exact epoxy in their tank liner kits. It is 100% Phenol Novolac epoxy undiluted and comes with the correct corrosive resistant activator (the right activator is also very important). This is the ONLY gas tank liner that will also work for high heat oil tanks / acid tanks / fuel tanks. Anything else will FAIL (POR15 Kreem etc) so don't even think about it. Anyway I bought a Caswell kit for $40 and we lined the oil tank yesterday. Hardens up in an hour but takes 2-3 days to fully cure. You can speed cure by placing in a 140 degree oven for 4 hours, but the concentrated vapors may harm your outside paint job.

If you want to read about the chemistry of this epoxy here is a pdf from an industrial chemical company. Very top of pdf. this is the same stuff as the Caswell kit. http://www.dynesic.com/pdfs/Dynesic_SC-5400.pdf

What a pain in the ass!! My poor Dog was definitely a bastard child at the factory when built. I can't believe BDM allowed that oil tank to be used with the left over copper plating crap inside it. So where is that crap going to go? Hmm.

BTW, the high end place in So Cal that does gas tank lining for vintage bikes (Fix Motorcycle Gas Tank, Rust Removal, Lining, Reconditioning, Fuel tank rust removal) also uses this special epoxy (they lined my gas tanks and now I know why their work is so highly regarded). My opinion, if you need to reline your tanks or the oil tank- only use the Caswell product. Think "Breaking Bad" - it is all about the chemistry :D. You can get the Caswell gas tank liner kit on ebay for about $40. You can buy Caswell locally in Los Angeles at Sunrise Cycles in Silverlake area - http://sunrisecyclesla.com/ - Small custom shop / nice guy. Email him through his website he always responds. His name is Kosuke.

Here are some photos. sorry bike is a big smudgy. the RB Racing pipe was a tight ass fit, barely cleared the 6 speed tranny door by less than 1/8". Looks good though. I still have to change the handlebars and risers.



 
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FrankBDPS

Well-Known Member
Looking good L A . What did you end up doing with the breathers? I am just about to mount my rebuilt carb and like you stated in an earlier post don't want any crap in the carb.
 

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Looking good L A . What did you end up doing with the breathers? I am just about to mount my rebuilt carb and like you stated in an earlier post don't want any crap in the carb.
my mech made some custom bolts that connect to banjo fittings. the bolts had a hole drilled in the center lenghtwise and then a horizontal port hole that feeds into the banjo fitting. these banjo fittings sit outside the carb bracket and the bolts are long enough to go through the bracket and the banjo fittings. at the banjo fitting we hooked up a braided line crossover from front breather to rear breather, then ran a braided line down from the rear breather to below bike. I'm sure you can buy this type of bolt setup on ebay though- search for Evo head breather bolts, banjo fittings etc.

You want something like this but with the bolts long enough to go through the carb mount bracket as well as the included banjo bolts. here is the ebay search string for related parts: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...ey+evo+head+breather+bolts&_sacat=0&_from=R40

 
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pknowles

RETIRED
ok so progress has been made, mechanic will be firing up the beast this weekend.

We had one more major setback and you just ain't gonna believe this.... The stock oil tank had a BUNCH of copper shit inside it from when it was originally chromed and had been leaching copper particles into the oil system. Whoever BDM used to chrome this tank did not know WTF they were doing (tank on brand new bike was chrome from factory).

When the motor oil was first drained before rebuild, my mech saw a lot of copper pieces in it - and during further tear down found copper particles everywhere, essentially fouling up oil ports etc- which to him was really bizarre at the time. couldn't find out where it was coming from. But this definitely contributed to the motor going south.

Mech did a final wash out of the oil tank on Monday before re-installing - used some denatured alcohol and shook it around, drained it, and large copper slabs started coming out along with copper sand-size granules. So all we could do is soak the inside with muriatic acid for a bit and rinse a few times to get most all of it out, then coat the inside with an epoxy liner.

Now.. what liner do you use. Well, it ain't that simple like a gas tank. You need an epoxy that will stand up to immersion in 200+ degree oil. There is only one type of epoxy that will work. It is called "Phenol Novolac Epoxy" and is used by the petrochemical companies to line their large tanks. So where do I get it?

After 4 hours of calling various chemical companies I discovered that Caswell uses this exact epoxy in their tank liner kits. It is 100% Phenol Novolac epoxy undiluted and comes with the correct corrosive resistant activator (the right activator is also very important). This is the ONLY gas tank liner that will also work for high heat oil tanks / acid tanks / fuel tanks. Anything else will FAIL (POR15 Kreem etc) so don't even think about it. Anyway I bought a Caswell kit for $40 and we lined the oil tank yesterday. Hardens up in an hour but takes 2-3 days to fully cure. You can speed cure by placing in a 140 degree oven for 4 hours, but the concentrated vapors may harm your outside paint job.

If you want to read about the chemistry of this epoxy here is a pdf from an industrial chemical company. Very top of pdf. this is the same stuff as the Caswell kit. http://www.dynesic.com/pdfs/Dynesic_SC-5400.pdf

What a pain in the ass!! My poor Dog was definitely a bastard child at the factory when built. I can't believe BDM allowed that oil tank to be used with the left over copper plating crap inside it. So where is that crap going to go? Hmm.

BTW, the high end place in So Cal that does gas tank lining for vintage bikes (Fix Motorcycle Gas Tank, Rust Removal, Lining, Reconditioning, Fuel tank rust removal) also uses this special epoxy (they lined my gas tanks and now I know why their work is so highly regarded). My opinion, if you need to reline your tanks or the oil tank- only use the Caswell product. Think "Breaking Bad" - it is all about the chemistry :D. You can get the Caswell gas tank liner kit on ebay for about $40. You can buy Caswell locally in Los Angeles at Sunrise Cycles in Silverlake area - - Sunrise Cycles - Small custom shop / nice guy. Email him through his website he always responds. His name is Kosuke.

Here are some photos. sorry bike is a big smudgy. the RB Racing pipe was a tight ass fit, barely cleared the 6 speed tranny door by less than 1/8". Looks good though. I still have to change the handlebars and risers.



Looks like your oil filter would have been clogged up with any copper particles that are big enough to see. The build is looking good. I know you are going to post a sound byte of it running:D
 

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Looks like your oil filter would have been clogged up with any copper particles that are big enough to see. The build is looking good. I know you are going to post a sound byte of it running:D
yep there was shit in the oil filter. Realize I only have put maybe 200 miles on the bike since I bought it. the oil and filter had just been changed, and it ran like a scalded dog when I test rode it- so I had no reason to really inspect the oil other than seeing it was fresh and full. Obviously someone before me had to have known about it... or never bothered to look inside the filter.

I will definitely get some video up when done- plus I got some pics to put up showing the fubared piston, crap from motor, and big paint chip showing 3 different paint jobs (one over the other, no primer even!)
 

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
lets have some fun guys- check out this crap from my bike.

scalded front piston (it was like this on both sides of the piston)



bucket of COPPER crap plus steel chunks from the bottom of engine case



baggies of COPPER crap from the cam chest, oil pump, head, etc - all of this copper crap circulated throughout the motor was from the inside oil tank copper residue that BDM left in there.



layers of paint! was originally silver (yuk), then rootbeer brown (double yuk), then flat metallic black (not so yuk) - and no primer in between layers... argh.

 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
look on the good side, you got to build the skoot the way you wanted it. unfortunately, all you can do is laugh about it. hurts too much to cry.
 
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