EHC replacement

[BWG56]

Well, technically I didn't... the guy who owned it for the last 4 years did and he went through the same start-up process he always did. He told me about having to hit the Run button first and mentioned something about compression. ...Thanks for the advice, I'm going to start tinkering with the electric leading up to the EHC & starter. It also has an 'Advance Auto Battery so I'm going to pull my good one from the Jackpot & c if that turns it over.

I have a EHC that I removed from mine and maybe I can help ya since your close, PM me your cell number and maybe we can set up a time for me to stop by and run thru a few things on your bike. I'll send you a pm, check the envelope at the top left.

 

[russell lewis]

Nice intro

welcome from Pa.

Most of us are replacing the ECH with other systems, DOC's ESC or RIP kits that are available now. The ECH has memory and requires constant tendering, these units that I mentioned are plug n play with their own wiring harness that plugs into the existing wiring throughout the bike.

 

[pauly]

Yes, I agree with James. It´s the right way!

About the "Low Fuel" indicator: I just have seen that my "new" EHC tester have this function implemented This will make things easier to figure out. I will make some new pcb boards next week on thursday or friday and think to solve the challenge with the permanent glow of the Low Fuel indicator soon.

However, I have seen that the Thermistor in the EFI version is implemented in the fuel pump assembly. I thought it´s somewhere in the gas tank. I don´t understand how a thermistor in the fuel pump assembly can detect if the tank is full or almost empty? When the sensor is hanging in the fuel pump and the led indicates "Low Fuel", then it´s already too late and the tank is empty in my opinion. What is my mistake? Thanks a lot!

All the best!
Axel

The fuel pump assembly is in the fuel tank Axel.

Regards
Paul.

 

[chubs]

Will do. I 'm going to grab a few pics of the Bigdog first. Too new, no pics & it'd be weird to post a photo of the Victory on a Bigdog site...

When mine did that, it was the female quick connector down on the solenoid. Hold the start button and wiggle the green wire at the starter solenoid, It worked for me, but might not be your trouble!

 

[Axel]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info. This make it easier to understand.

All the best!
Axel

 

[Axel]

...Just a small update:

For the next version I´ll change the plastic spacers inside of the EHC against a 1 mm galvanized sheet metal what is on both sides bended at 90 degree. This will hold the distance of the board and I believe it will give more stability to the 2 threaded nuts in the botton of the box. I just made a drawing and will order some test metal sheets tomorrow.
...by the way, the 2 holes have 9mm and not 14...



I use 3 small footprints what have only contact to the pcb material but far away to any electronic contact on the pcb.

An other change will be a new EHC58 board in a few weeks what already contains the complete wiring for the EFI version and 2 small solder pads (on the right side) for an external fuse or an internal current limiter board to the constant voltage input of the EFI. The resistors for the low fuel indicator led are also implemented but not tested yet. This makes the board usuable for the cabureted and the EFI version. I also optimized the routing of the 2 layers a bit and increased some conductor tracks. I attach the drawing and the schema.




I also have changed the resitors to the led´s against a bigger mechanical size what will hold the small plexiglass window better on the
led´s while the potting procedure, but this is just a bit decoration anyway...

I´ll come back to you with the result when the "Low Fuel" indicator led is tested.

All the best and have a nice sunday!
Axel

 

[Axel]

The metal inserts are ready. I believe, it´s better for the threaded nuts and it´s a perfect distance plate for the pcb board:



All the best!
Axel

 

[Slick117]

I, for one, really want to thank you for your perseverance on this project. I understand you are a businessman and profit is a motivator, but I think all of us on here really appreciate your efforts to help us with this issue. It is really good to see someone come on here and in a little over two month hopefully come up with a solution to a problem that has plagued these bikes for years, and done It at a reasonable price. And I say hopefully because I do know this is a work in process and only time will tell.

 

[BWG56]

Tru-Dat

 

[Th3InfamousI]

The metal inserts are ready. I believe, it´s better for the threaded nuts and it´s a perfect distance plate for the pcb board:

View attachment 31990

All the best!
Axel

That metal plate just sits in the bottom of the plastic box? Plastic underneath yes?

Reason I ask is I have a PDM unit that grounded out I think internally and the box is made of metal and pitted now the box is an open ground! And guess what, it mounts to a metal battery tray. Haha.

So my question really is you have no concern over ground issues with the plate?

I will say it looks purdy

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[Axel]

Hi James,

Thanks for the flowers Yes, I need to think businesslike, cause my kids want food etc and I want my Ridgeback soon ;-)

Beside of it, I like it to be an engineer, hanging in my workshop and try my best to make a good product. Since I´m in contact with Barny, "my" local BD dealer I really like these great bikes. This give me the motivation to work on the EHC and try to make some things better. I also agree with you that only the time will tell. The electronic is fine in my opinion and the mechanical things need to be tested and I´m happy that I got so many suggestions from you guys what I could put in the product. No other can test the EHC better than you. Every test in the workshop is nothing compare to the road.

However, I had a Dnepr MT16 (Russian bike) some years ago and I believe, a 58 Harley is a hightech Tesla compare to this junk. I don´t know how many times I arranged a trailer somewhere in the middle of nowhere and I don´t want you to have the same "funny experiences", but only the time will tell. Let´s try... Thanks!

All the best!
Axel

 

[Axel]

Hi Eric,

Thanks for the info. Yes, I got similar mails from other BD owners. The metal plate will have no connection to the electronic parts or wires, cause the 3 metal footprints will not touch an active part of the pcb. It only touch epoxyd layer and the potting compound will isolate it. There are about 5 mm distance to the next electrical path, what you can see in the pcb. I think, this might be ok.

All the best!
Axel

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Hi Eric,

Thanks for the info. Yes, I got similar mails from other BD owners. The metal plate will have no connection to the electronic parts or wires, cause the 3 metal footprints will not touch an active part of the pcb. It only touch epoxyd layer and the potting compound will isolate it. There are about 5 mm distance to the next electrical path, what you can see in the pcb. I think, this might be ok.

All the best!
Axel

Your the engineer not me! Haha makes sense. I actually am going to rip the potting out of this unit I want to see what went wrong. However using a metal case to protect a PCB board seems a bit odd.

Good board

Now it's bad! When I run a ground to the case! Damn it man!

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[Ticey]

Thanks for the tip!

When mine did that, it was the female quick connector down on the solenoid. Hold the start button and wiggle the green wire at the starter solenoid, It worked for me, but might not be your trouble!

 

[Ticey]

I have a EHC that I removed from mine and maybe I can help ya since your close, PM me your cell number and maybe we can set up a time for me to stop by and run thru a few things on your bike. I'll send you a pm, check the envelope at the top left.

That is an awesome offer, thanks!! & if it doesn't fire with the tips from here (& a new battery) I'll likely take you up on that!

 

[Ticey]

(Didn't want to leave this hanging like I did, for so long...) To BWG56: GOOD FOR YOU, PROUD OF YOU!!! I'm not, but have a bunch of friends & family on the right path and wanted to make sure I gave you a shout out for the hard work. Wanted to do this sooner but it was just my Anniversary weekend and the wife was using the short leash.

 

[Rottweiler]

I, for one, really want to thank you for your perseverance on this project. I understand you are a businessman and profit is a motivator, but I think all of us on here really appreciate your efforts to help us with this issue. It is really good to see someone come on here and in a little over two month hopefully come up with a solution to a problem that has plagued these bikes for years, and done It at a reasonable price. And I say hopefully because I do know this is a work in process and only time will tell.

Second that

 

[Axel]

Hm, I was in my workshop last night and tried to solve the "Low Fuel" indicator problem in combination with the EHC58E at the EFI models but was not successful with the EHC tester. The led in the test bike was always on.

When I look to the 2007 EFI schematic it looks easy. The thermistor is connected with one side to A22 respected to ground. The track is from A22 to B40 and from B40 to the indicator led what is connected with a resistor to plus 12 V. This led will glow, when the thermistor have a low resistance and short the A22 - B40 line to ground. So, I just need to implement a small resistor from B40 to plus 12 Volt what will pull the pin to a higher voltage and switch off the led if the led glow if the gas tank is full . So far, so good. It doesn´t work with my EHC tester. The led is always off :-/ Only the EHC Power led on the tester glow, when I connect B40 to ground. Why? I have no idea yet. There is no cross connection in the schematic. Could it happen that there is not everything indicated in the schematic?

I´ll need to ask "my" BD dealer and measure it direct at an EFI bike.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Hm, I was in my workshop last night and tried to solve the "Low Fuel" indicator problem in combination with the EHC58E at the EFI models but was not successful with the EHC tester. The led in the test bike was always on.

When I look to the 2007 EFI schematic it looks easy. The thermistor is connected with one side to A22 respected to ground. The track is from A22 to B40 and from B40 to the indicator led what is connected with a resistor to plus 12 V. This led will glow, when the thermistor have a low resistance and short the A22 - B40 line to ground. So, I just need to implement a small resistor from B40 to plus 12 Volt what will pull the pin to a higher voltage and switch off the led if the led glow if the gas tank is full . So far, so good. It doesn´t work with my EHC tester. The led is always off :-/ Only the EHC Power led on the tester glow, when I connect B40 to ground. Why? I have no idea yet. There is no cross connection in the schematic. Could it happen that there is not everything indicated in the schematic?

I´ll need to ask "my" BD dealer and measure it direct at an EFI bike.

I'm wondering if the tester doesn't work for it either haha.

Does anyone know if the PDM worked with low fuel maybe you check both schematics

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[Axel]

Hm, there is a button for "Low Fuel" test on the EHC tester , but who knows...