First time oil change

Energy One
Steven Proctor

Steven Proctor

Active Member
463C377B-4D6B-4DE5-8B32-4BDFAB7C2053.jpeg 8D6A7E43-2AFD-4CE9-8137-0CFC45EA46BA.jpeg I have an ‘06 K9 and this will be my first oil change on the bike since I have owned it. After reading several theads I think I have a pretty good understanding of the process. My first question concerns the drain plug directly underneath the motor. I notice a very small leak from this plug. Maybe a drop or 2 ever so often. The manual says not to drain from here. (I do realize I need to drain the oil from the pan towards the rear of the bike.) But I don’t want any issues from this plug after the change. If I pull this plug, what should I expect to get it done right the first time? Secondly, I have n oil cooler as well. Are there any precautions I should take or do anything different or additional? Thanx for all the help
 
heybaylor

heybaylor

Active Member
whelp. that is a NPT plug, do not pull it out . (or understand the npt pipe thread and how it works)
If you do what you will get the normal dry-sump residue( ie a little oil,) ( assuming that you don't have "sumping")
pull the plug/hose on the oil bag and change the filter.
quit overthinking .its just a SS motor
 
Steven Proctor

Steven Proctor

Active Member
heybaylor, your right, I don’t know anything about NPT plugs or threads. Yes, I am trying not to overthink it. I have never worked on an S&S. pknowles, if I decide to tighten the plug, is it still right=tight? I have worked on a few valves and fittings with reverse threads.
 
pknowles

pknowles

RETIRED
Steven Proctor said:
heybaylor, your right, I don’t know anything about NPT plugs or threads. Yes, I am trying not to overthink it. I have never worked on an S&S. pknowles, if I decide to tighten the plug, is it still right=tight? I have worked on a few valves and fittings with reverse threads.
Click to expand...
Right is tight. Just remember we are working upside down.
 
SKOGDOG

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Here is a 2008 post from Forum Member Loafington.

Here is the skinny from S&S regarding the case drain plug. This is an email message. The message actually starts at the bottom and the most recent reply is at the top.
As far as I can see, this disputed bullshit myth of having to prime your pump if the case drain plug is removed, is well, BUSTED according to S&S, the maker of the S&S 117" engine.

If you get more that a quart of oil out of that plug it would mean that your check ball, in the oil pump, is not seated correctly. You do not need to re-prime your pump.

Thanks,

S&S Tech
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 2:31 AM
To: Glick Brent
Subject: RE: S&S

If that plug is removed, and old oil drained from the case, does the oil pump lose it's prime and need re-priming after the oil is drained from the case?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: S&S
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:53:40 -0500
From: bglick@sscycle.com


That is a drain for the crank case it is not necessary to remove that plug for every oil change but if you want to get any oil out of the case that my be left behind that can be removed. It is a pipe plug thread so there is no real torque spec (just use common sense when tightening) use a thread sealer on the plug before re-installing.
Thanks,
S&S tech

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Skogdog here:
Remember that your oil pump has two sides--one pumps oil through the engine oil galleries and lubes key friction points under pressure--no splash system like auto engines. The other side of the oil pump sends the oil through the filter and back to the reservoir.
This means that as long as there is oil in the reservoir available for the pump to use, the engine has oil pressure. So there is no time when the engine has to run without oil pressure after an oil change. A correctly operating pump (check ball) will not lose its prime if you drain the sump.
Believe what the tech says about not stripping the sump bolt...that would be a pain in the butt.
 
Last edited:
Steven Proctor

Steven Proctor

Active Member
Ok. So I drained the oil from the pan in the rear. It came out very milky. I have never had this happen and I am assuming this isn’t normal. Any ideas? The last time i road it, I was caught in an extreamly heavy downpour and had to ride about 20 min to get out of it. The bike hesitated some, But it got me home safe. Thanx for the help. 996F979B-F7FE-4246-AF36-6077BAFBB65C.jpeg
 
SEAL-rider

SEAL-rider

Active Member
I assume this requires two people. Otherwise starting and stopping the bike requires Reed Richards mutation.
 
E

Ernie12

Active Member
If you had a scavenger I believe you could leave the engine idling and keep pumping out all of that bad oil as long as you keep the oil tank level somewhat full. When I bought my bike it had been sitting for quite a while and I wanted to get all of the old oil out and not mix with the new. I had at least 32ozs come out black before the new started coming through just like the videos. For me it was worth every dollar.
 
Steven Proctor

Steven Proctor

Active Member
Yeah, I’m not sure how I can do it without the scavenger. Even with a plastic bottle, I’m not sure how to make it work. I know I don’t want to run through 8 more quarts of oil trying to clean it all out. Especially at $10/qt.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top