Won’t rev!

rapsman

Member
Thanks wrench!, sounds a lot better now, still not right but at least it’s threatening to rev a bit now, gonna check the coil next (as per mr Wright’s link) just to be sure
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks wrench!, sounds a lot better now, still not right but at least it’s threatening to rev a bit now, gonna check the coil next (as per mr Wright’s link) just to be sure
Sounds like you just need to turn it a bit more then

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Sven

Well-Known Member
My way of looking at the coil is... If the ign was adjusted, a rev is running past the previous setting, how all of a sudden is the coil the problem?

I'd loosen the ign bolts so I could swing the ign body in the slots, start the bike, WOT the throttle, move the body and see if the slots will advance the ign.

Note: Let's say the rotor spins clockwise. If you can image-12 o'clock is TDC (top dead center) is the piston. If the rotor moves to 11 o'clock, call this full advance. Therefore, I'd move the body in the slots in the counter clockwise position to see if it will rev with more advance. If the rotor moves ccw, then the body in the slots move cw. Make sense?
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
My way of looking at the coil is... If the ign was adjusted, a rev is running past the previous setting, how all of a sudden is the coil the problem?

I'd loosen the ign bolts so I could swing the ign body in the slots, start the bike, WOT the throttle, move the body and see if the slots will advance the ign.

Note: Let's say the rotor spins clockwise. If you can image-12 o'clock is TDC (top dead center) is the piston. If the rotor moves to 11 o'clock, call this full advance. Therefore, I'd move the body in the slots in the counter clockwise position to see if it will rev with more advance. If the rotor moves ccw, then the body in the slots move cw. Make sense?
Yep, was thinking the same thing, hence my earlier post!

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Mr. Wright

Knows some things
That's an awful lot of turning on that thing. I wonder if the cam is off a tooth. Was any motor work done to it before you bought it?
 

wrench

Member
well,, if it helped then you should see you are now correcting what the problem actually is.. you have found the area of the problem.if it was not the problem it would not of changed at all...You jus don't have it advanced far enough yet...I've seen a lot of em with them fully advanced,,,, (as far as the unit would swing clock wise).
Leave the stand off screws jus loose enough you can still turn the unit. start the bike, run the rpm up to bout 1500 or 2000 and hold it there. keep advancing the unit till it runs clean.. if it starts to break up or pop then back it off a hair and tighten the screws. shut it off and see how the bike starts. ride it and if you have any spark knock retard it a lil bit till the spark knock is gone. they call it setting the timing by ear.. If you wanna use a dial back timing light thru the timing hole later you can. but I've done em by ear for a lot of yrs. and I can make em run better than most can with a timing light. the old 107 with no compression releases will most always have a lil bit of starter stall when you first hit the starter button unless you have a hot charge and a 2.0 or 2.4 starter. the 600 lift cam in em is notorious for being a hard starting cam.
the timing on em is around 28 degrees before top dead center.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Does the LED blink then stay on when you turn the key on?

Could be way out of time and needs to take out the ignition and check the timing pickup may need to turn the whole crankshaft

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rapsman

Member
Morning all, Sven, not saying the coil is “suddenly” faulty , I’m simply trying to make sure that it isn’t part of the problem, since moving the module as per mr wrench’s suggestion the red light blinks and goes out when you turn on the ignition, someone has clearly been in the motor before I purchased it and it’s possible that the cam is out as has been suggested.
I should of said at the start of this post that I have never owned or worked on an American Big V twin before and I am trying to learn on the job so if I seem a bit slow and dull (lol) then I hope you will bear with me, I guess I’m trying to eliminate all the easy/cheap fix options before having to rip it all to bits!, thanks again.
 

rapsman

Member
So, following wrench’s advice, I slackened of the two retaining screws enough to be able to make adjustments, fired it up, and the pick ups are arcing between the module and the back plate as the motor vibrates, so sadly that ain’t gonna work
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
So, following wrench’s advice, I slackened of the two retaining screws enough to be able to make adjustments, fired it up, and the pick ups are arcing between the module and the back plate as the motor vibrates, so sadly that ain’t gonna work
Have you read the install document yet? Specifically the below


If the ignition has to be rotated an extreme amount or does not have enough adjustment to bring the timing in, the engine may be on its
exhaust stroke. Remove the ignition and observe the timing rotor. The timing pickup (near the switches) should be sitting in one of the
windows with the ignition installed . The shorter distance to the other window should be CLOCKWISE. If not, rotate the crankshaft 1
revolution and check again
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjABegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3TvrhYbCqpLnodmqv0LIb7


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rapsman

Member
Haha, I think that’s how I got myself in this position!, dreaming!, I’m having a break from timing problems today whilst I await the arrival of a timing light, so I thought as the weather is crap (again) I would amuse myself trying too find out why the brake lights don’t work, no, that’s not correct, the brake light is permanently on even with the switches disconnected. Happy days!.
 

rapsman

Member
Just a small update, the spark to the front cylinder is not consistent, in fact it’s not even a consistent misfire, it’s more a case of fire two , miss one , fire six miss two etc, etc. Coil and leads and plugs all check out so I think the finger is definitely starting to point at the ignition module , anyone know how to test them properly?, other than just trying to measure the outputs
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Just a small update, the spark to the front cylinder is not consistent, in fact it’s not even a consistent misfire, it’s more a case of fire two , miss one , fire six miss two etc, etc. Coil and leads and plugs all check out so I think the finger is definitely starting to point at the ignition module , anyone know how to test them properly?, other than just trying to measure the outputs
When you said it was arcing when you had it loose, I figured it was the problem. I bet it's cracked or something like that. Drop another one in and go for a ride.
 

rapsman

Member
Think your right my friend, got to order it from the states so don’t know how long that will take, be nice to be certain that it is the module.
 

rapsman

Member
Yeah, I’m pretty sure your right, be nice to get into it and find the problem though!, thanks for your encouragement!.
 
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